Who said watches with Roman numerals has to be dressy?
There seems to be a preconception that watches with Roman numerals are dressy. Think Cartier. Off the top of my head, Cartier has really made the Roman numeral design their own, especially when combined with a rectangular case. A cursory Google search seems to also confirm that the vast majority of watch brands utilises Roman numerals to “dress up” their models.
One might pose the question whether Roman numerals always makes a watch look dressier? Are there instances where the watch errs on the side of casual, Maybe even sporty, with a large diameter case? ask no more. In the following 3-part series, we will look at 3 watches all with Roman numerals, in 3 very different interpretations, and none of them can really be described as “dressy”. Maybe you could get away with wearing the with a suit, but I doubt any of them would fit in with a black tie event. (In the traditional sense. We’re not talking Aussie black tie, which can mean anything from a tux to jeans, t-shirt, sports jacket and sneakers.)
Part the first:
Romain Jerome Steampunk 46 - 2015
I still remember the first time I came to know Romain Jerome. And my reaction is far from favourable. The watch? The titanic DNA. the reaction? Let's just say it was NSFW. Well. NSFAnything really... however, something that polarising definitely sticks in your mind and over the years RJ has broadened their horizon to include some incredible pieces such the subcraft, to the extremely niche market Hello Kitty watches... and somewhere in between, watches that appealed to my childhood nostalgia such as the Space Invaders and the Super Mario Bros... Let’s just say that I’ve come to appreciate its quirks and its audacity to be so different in a seemingly still-quite-conservative Swiss Watch industry. Yeah I know there are a lot of so-called self-anointed “disruptors” but who are we kidding? Most of the industry is still extremely traditional, despite what their marketing material may say.
It is however, quite saddening to hear of their bankruptcy earlier this year, as well, their funding dried up in the very trying luxury market, especially for an independent niche brand such as RJ, and all the more depressing especially when I've had the opportunity to meet some of the really lovely people working for the brand at Baselworld (when it was still around...) Hopefully the brand will somehow find its way back, but in the meantime, let's have a look at one of the more distinctive designs from the brand.
This might be an entry level sort of watch, but by no means does it mean cheap and cheerful. Far from it. The moment you hold the piece in your hand you know you have something quite special. You feel it in its weight. You see it in the details, and you definitely notice it in your wallet. Comes with the territory of being a limited production run. This version? Just 999 pieces. There are a couple of other versions; a shinier polished steel case and one in 18k rose gold.
Now I’ve always had a soft spot for everything steampunk and retro futuristic style. I think calling this piece steampunk is probably stretching the term a little, but I am very taken with the style, and now that they’ve tossed the “rusted” bezel look of the titanic, it works even better with just a smooth, albeit somewhat aged industrial look, nicely juxtaposed with the smooth black case claws and shiny screws on the dial.
Speaking of the dial; yes there is a dial, even though at first glance it might seem skeletonised. In closer inspection there is no hint of the movement, but multiple layers of patterns, in different finishing, which gives it a subtle three-dimension design. Although the OCD in me may prefer a completely symmetrical look, I do like the fact the small propeller running seconds at 9:00 position acts as a charming small reminder of its beginnings as a ship-themed watch.
The strap is usually the first thing to come off a watch for me, but in this instance, one major obstacle stopped me from doing so... I didn’t know how. It’s not the usual arrangement of spring bar, strap, and lugs. Apparently one needs to use a special tool to remove the strap. Whilst I wait for said missing tool to arrive, I have no choice but to wear the OEM Strap. And it’s actually not a bad thing. It tapers from being quite thick at the lugs to thin and soft at the other end. It holds the shape and supports the watch quite well, at the same time being very comfortable to wear. One thing I didn’t like is the folding clasp (and RJ aren’t alone in this) which felt cheap and flimsy. So off it came and a sturdy, thick pin buckle I had lying around went on. Perfect.
The watch comes with a solid case back, making identifying the beating heart that much more difficult. According to the internet, it’s built by LaJoux-Perret or Concepto on a Valjoux 7750 base, meaning it should be relatively reliable but not exactly “uh-house”. Does that turn you off? It depends on what you want out of a watch movement. As nice as an in-house movement is, sometimes you just want something simple, reliable, and most important aspect of all - serviceability. A competent watchmaker will be able to service simple. Complications, well... can be complicated and lead to unwanted um... complications...
Despite its outlandish styling, and seeming large-watch size, the watch as a whole is quite stealthy, helped by the use of matte black case and black strap. I was hoping to put a vintage dark brown calf strap on the watch to bring out the steampunk vibe even more. Its relatively short lug-to-lug length makes it much more wearable than the diameter suggest, and yes, it sits very well and comfortable on the wrist. It is not a watch that will have mass appeal and it doesn’t need to. Given the relatively low production run and the uncertainty over the brand’s future, chances of seeing a Romain Jerome watch in the wild is likely to remain in the realm of a steel Daytona in stock for retail.
Lug to lug 48mm
Diameter 46mm
USD 12500 or approx AUD 19000
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