Cartier's Jaeger-LeCoultre Duoplan Powered Watches - Antiquorum

This Cartier watch lot from the upcoming Antiquorum auction was brought to my attention courtesy of @horologium. It's an interesting lot seeing as you get a whole brief case of nice vintage Cartiers in one hit, most of which will most like need to be sent back to the service centre for a bit of TLC. The James Bond attache case is a nice touch.

Image from Antiquorum- Click on image to expand. The duoplan ones would be the rectangular shaped watches

What really caught my attention was the barely legible text engraved on the plate above each watch to identify it. I managed to make out the word "Duoplan" which struck a chord... what chord???

Well, back in the early 20s, Jaeger-LeCoultre came up with a radical method to shrink the watch movement in a quest to make everything smaller. They came up with the idea of putting the movement on 2 levels, so it's shaped like a brick, but by doing so shrinking the overall size and a brick shaped movement lent itself quite well to bracelet like jewellery watches. The name is literally that- Duoplan.

The Duoplan quickly evolved into the smallest mechanical movement ever made- the Calibre 101. One of the most famous watches made with this watch was the one worn by Queen Elizabeth II during her coronation back in 1953. The Calibre 101 consists of 98 parts, measuring 4.85mm by 14mm and weighs a massive 1 gram(!)

Watches with calibre 101 are still being produced today by Jaeger-LeCoultre, but the Duoplan is not. This might be quite the pick up if only for the Duoplan watches that aren't made by Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Calibre 101 fitted into a Reverso case

The auction is this Sunday, May 12th in Geneva, and the Cartier watches set is lot 340.

Bond 50th Anniversary - Christie's Charity Auction

Bondmania is well and truly alive.

To mark the 50th anniversary of the Bond movie franchise, Christie's held a charity auction, offering up memorabilia from the Bond films from Dr No to the latest blockbuster Skyfall releasing this year.

Notable results from the auction? The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean as worn by Craig Daniel in the movie Skyfall went under the hammer for a smidgeon over a quarter of a million dollars. (157,250 pounds) You might think this is a lot to pay for a second hand watch that just tells the time! Its hammer price is even higher than that for the BMW Z8 as featured in "The World Is Not Enough" (albeit a pre-production replica), which went for "only" 70,000 pounds.

The Omega Planet Ocean as worn by Daniel Craig in Skyfall - image from Christie's

However, if you read the fine prints, this particular Omega is a one-off (piece unique) made for the film, in titanium (regular production models are in stainless steel). So I guess this makes it a better value than that second hand piece worn in the movie Casino Royale, complete with dirt, which went for 250,000 CHF ($260,000) at the Antiquorum Omegamania auction a few years back... and it's only on a rubber strap...

The Omega Planet Ocean from the Antiquorum Omegamania - image from Antiquorum

If you want a piece of Bond timepiece, you have the choice of the Skyfall limited edition Planet Ocean, or the Bond 50th anniversay Seamaster Professional, or, if you just want the look without the Bond connotations, there are also regular Planet Oceans and Seamaster Professionals available at your local authorised Omega retailer...

Skyfall limited edition

Bond 50th Anniversary limited edition

James Bond was first issued the Omega Seamaster Professional Quartz in the movie Goldeneye. He then was upgraded to an automatic version in the subsequent missions. When Daniel Craig took over Bond duties for Casino Royale, he wore both the Omega Seamaster Professional and the Planet Ocean. In his latest assignment Skyfall he upgraded to the latest Planet Ocean model powered by the Omega's inhouse movement calibre 8500.

1st Omega Bond watch - screencap from Goldeneye

At auction : Elvis Presley's Omega Constellation

Photo from Antiquorum

So we brought you John Wayne's Rolex King Midas and Clark Gable's Rolex Oyster which went for USD23,116. Now Elvis is in the building. An Omega Constellation that previously belonged Elvis will be up for auction at Antiquorum’s New York auction on Tuesday, June 12, 2012. 

The Omega Black Dial Constellation Calendar watch belongs to Elvis' longtime friend and Charlie Hodge, a musician who played with Presley and who himself was inducted into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame in 2007. Hodge recalls, "... several times I told Elvis how beautiful his watch was ... and he took it off his wrist and gave it to me." 

Elvis' Constellation Calendar dates from about 1960. At 35mm and 12mm thick, it is pink gold-capped with a black dial featuring baton indices, applied pink gold Omega logo and applied pink gold star at 6 o’clock. The dauphine hands are luminous. Inside is the M.Cal. 504 movement. The dial, case and movement are all signed. The watch’s strap has a gold-plated Omega buckle. 

 Photo from Antiquorum

The caseback is stainless steel with an applied pink gold-plated Constellation logo. 

It is expected to sell for $10,000 - $20,000, and the successful bidder will get a letter of attestation signed by Hodge. Elvis had a well-known relationship with Hamilton Watches, so if you’re an Elvis fan, having a watch owned by him that’s not a Hamilton probably rates more highly. 

The collection will be previewed in New York from June 9 – 11 but you can see the catalogue here and place an absentee bid if you wish. Happy bidding!

[AP]

"The Elephant and the Snake" - a 19th century Bovet pocket watch

 Photo from Antiquorum

Born in Fleurier, Switzerland, Edouard Bovet (1797–1849) was the son of the watchmaker Jean- Frédéric Bovet. He One of five brothers and a sister, he studied art with his father. In 1814, as a consequence of his stance against Neuchâtel's return to Prussian rule after the fall of Napoleon, he left, with his brothers Frédéric and Alphonse, for London to study watchmaking

After studying in London for a few years, his employer Magniac sent him to what was then Canton, China, in 1818. Almost as soon as he arrived he was able to sell four watches for the equivalent of USD 1 million in 2008 currency. 

Clearly he took to living in the port city; in 1822 he founded, with Alphonse and Frédéric (still in London) and Gustave, who was a watchmaker in Fleurier, a company for the express purpose of selling timepieces to the Chinese market. The company was based in London and production soon transferred back to Fleurier. 

Five changes of ownership after its birth, the current manifestation of Bovet is quite a different beast, but the occasional appearance of an early Bovet timepiece at auction is always a good reminder both of the history of the brand, and the fact that ‘the Chinese market’ is not a new one, horologically speaking.

 Photos from Antiquorum

Coming up at Antiquorum’s “Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces” auction on Tuesday June 12, 2012 in New York is one of Bovet’s beautiful pocket watches made for the Chinese market, from circa 1870. “The Elephant and the Snake”, contains an intricate and gloriously colourful enamel painting attributed to P.-Amédée Champod (1834-1913) who specialised in hunting scenes and was awarded a silver medal at the Paris Exhibition of 1900. The pocket watch is 62mm, gilt brass with painted on enamel back, pearl-set bezel, pendant and bow. The dial is white enamel with Roman numerals and Arabic numerals at each 15-minute marker. The hands are blued steel. The movement is described as “M. 54 mm, fully engraved gilt Chinese caliber, free-standing barrel, Jacot duplex escapement, three-arm steel balance with gold screws, blued steel fl at balance spring, index regulator” and both the case and movement are signed ‘Bovet’ in Chinese characters, with the movement signed Bovet Fleurier. 

Oh and yes, it has its key. 

Estimate: 20,000 USD - 30,000 USD.

Happy bidding. 

 [AP]

Would you like to own one of Clark Gable’s watches?

Now what sort of watch do you think Clark Gable wore? 

Well it turns out that he didn’t restrict himself to a single watch, and that he was a man of varied tastes. Two of his watches, both looking lovingly worn, are currently up for auction online. 

 

First up is Lot 10. This circa 1935 Mathey-Tissot chrono, unexpectedly on a new Patek strap, has case number 84549, measures about 32mm, and is accompanied by documentary evidence of its provenance. The current bid is a $3,146 and you can bid here. 

Secondly we have Lot 11, Gable’s Rolex Oyster. As can be seen on the dial, it was sold by Brock & Co, and comes with with a provenance direct from Gable’s estate. Circa 1940, it is 14k gold and looks much loved. It comes with two photographs of Gable wearing the watch, including the one at the top of this post. The current bid is $4,189 and you can bid here. 

There is no mention of the working/ movement condition of the watches, as you can tell from the links, but if you’re interested in them as a bit of horologically inclined cinema memorabilia then you’d better get in quick - the auction ends in two days. 

 [AP]

Breguet acquires important Turkish pocket watch at auction

 

The Breguet Museum at Place Vendôme has acquired a historically important watch made in 1808 for a dignitary of the Ottoman Empire for CHF 650,000 (approx US$695,000), a record for a Turkish-style Breguet watch, and also a record for a pocket watch auctioned in mainland China.

This pocket watch was ordered in 1807 by His Excellency Esseid Ali Effendi, a former ambassador to Paris and personal friend of Abraham-Louis Breguet.

The Breguet N° 2090 Grande Complication watch is a quarter-repeater with independent grande and petite sonnerie functions in a double-case with a Turkish influenced enamel design and an Arabic numbered dial.

There is a rich history between Breguet and the Ottoman Empire. An exhibition at the Topkapi Palace Museum was held in 2010 of fifteen timepieces made for the Turkish market in the 19th century, featuring pieces from the collections of Breguet and the Topkapi, including the Sympathique clock made for Mahmud II and letters exchanged between Breguet and the Turkish ambassador Esseid Ali Effendi.

[AP]

Selections from Antiquorum's NY December auction

With the end of 2011 nigh, Antiquorum's December "Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces" auction in New York will feature a mixed bag of 450 modern and vintage timepieces, and even some parts (see lots 323 to 327).

You can view the full catalogue at this link but here are a couple of interesting (and sometimes quirky) timepieces that grabbed my attention. I am partial to lots 158 and 188. Descriptions and photographs are from the catalogue:

Lot 139 – Jaeger LeCoultre for Hermès, retailed by the latter. Movement No. 2176671, case No. 1315945. Made in the 1970's. Fine and rare, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with large lugs. Two-body, horizontal rectangular, polished and brushed, inclined bezel, extended lugs, winding-crown at 6. Satine silver with applied steel baton indexes. Steel baton hands. M. Cal. 818/2, tonneau, rhodium-plated, fausses cotes decoration, 17 jewels, straight lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock-absorber to balance and escape wheels, self-compensating fl at balance spring. Dial and movement signed. Dim. 42 x 30 mm. Thickness 7 mm.

Estimate: 1,000 USD - 2,000 USD

Estimate: 900 CHF - 1,700 CHF

Estimate: 700 EUR - 1,500 EUR

Lot 157 – Scarab beetle. Unsigned, Swiss, circa 1870. Fine gold and enamel, diamond-set pendant form watch designed as a scarab-beetle. Accompanied by a fitted box and key. Three part, underside chased and engraved with legs and underbody, wing covers entirely decorated in translucent red enamel over engine-turning with black spots, main body with black enamel stripes, the thorax with a diamond-set collar, spring loaded wing covers hinged and opening from a button in the base to reveal the dial. White enamel with Roman numerals. Blued steel "spade" hands. Oval 7"' 1/2 gilt brass, bar calibre with going barrel, 8 jewels, cylinder escapement and plain three-arm balance, fl at balance spring with regulator. Total length 46 mm.

Estimate: 15,000 USD - 20,000 USD

Estimate: 13,000 CHF - 17,000 CHF

Estimate: 11,000 EUR - 14,000 EUR

Lot 158 – Vacheron & Constantin Ref. 7323 white gold. Genève, No. 616631, case No. 49845. Circa 1970. Very fine and unusual, thin, keyless 18K white gold oval shaped pocket watch. Two body, polished bezel with satin reverse, cabouchon set winding crown. Silvered with painted Roman numerals. Blued steel index hands. Calibre. 1003 within oval steel holder, rhodium plated with fausses cotes decoration, 17 jewels, Geneva seal, straight-line lever escapement, blued steel balance spring adjusted to heat, cold, isochronism and 5 positions, index regulator. Dim. 35 mm x 47 mm.

Estimate: 2,800 USD - 4,300 USD

Estimate: 2,500 CHF - 3,800 CHF

Estimate: 2,000 EUR - 3,000 EUR

Lot 188 - Patek Philippe Telequartz. No. 842067. Circa 1975. Fine and rare, 220v., radio-controlled Module LS 0 electronic Master Clock. C. Rectangular, stepped, steel, black control panel with LCD display and buttons for setting. D. Electronic LCD digital display. M. Electronic, based on quartz oscillator, integral receiver Module AD 10SN, Serie 2384 receiver box. Dim. 24 x 33 x 7 cm.

Estimate: 1,500 USD - 3,000 USD

Estimate: 1,300 CHF - 2,600 CHF

Estimate: 1,000 EUR - 2,000 EUR

Lot 441 - Yellow gold top winder Vacheron & Constantin, Genève, No. 370816, case No. 262383. Made in the early 1930's. Very fine and rare, 18K yellow gold wristwatch. C. Three-body, solid, polished, concave lugs, winding crown at 12, domed crystal. D. Black with applied yellow gold Arabic numerals and baton indexes, outer minute divisions, subsidiary seconds dial. Yellow gold epée hands. M. Cal. 10 1/2''', gilt brass, 15 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, cut bimetallic compensation balance, blued steel fl at balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 30 mm. Thickness 8 mm.

Estimate: 4,300 USD - 7,000 USD

Estimate: 3,800 CHF - 6,000 CHF

Estimate: 3,000 EUR - 5,000 EUR

One of the stars of this auction, and the cover watch, is the Parmigiani Bugatti  Type 370. This piece unique, with a 10-day power reserve, is in a stunning curved rectangular shape, its movement shaped like an automotive engine set inside an oval-shaped cylinder. The watch is wound and set via the underside, and comes with a “starter key”, in the manner of a car. The key is inserted into the winding hole to wind the watch, the “key’s” reverse is used to set the time. It also has 28 baguette diamonds.

Lot 180 – Parmigiani Fleurier “Bugatti” 18-carat white gold and diamonds. "Bugatti - Type 370," Piece Unique, case No. 23706. Made in 2007, sold January 27th, 2008. Accompanied by the original fitted box, travel box, certificate of origin, instructions and automatic winding pen. Extremely fine, rare and unusual, rectangular curved, movement constructed in the shape of an automotive engine encased in an oval-shaped cylinder, 18K white gold and diamonds driver's wristwatch with 10-day autonomy (displayed on a graduated drum) and an 18K white gold Parmigiani double deployant clasp. Accompanied by the original fitted box, travel box, certificate of origin, instructions and automatic winding pen.

Eight-body, solid, polished, transparent top, sides and back to view the movement, bezel set with 28 tapered baguette diamonds (approx. carat weight 3.1), case back with 4 screws, sapphire crystals. White gold with oeil-de-perdrix decoration, applied white gold EB (Ettore Bugatti) logo, luminous white gold baton indexes on a matte black outer reserve. Luminous white gold alpha hands. M. Cal. PF 370 oval mounted on silent blocks, rhodium-plated, 37 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating fl at balance spring, double-barrel. Dial, case and movement signed. Dim. 32 x 50 mm. Thickness 19 mm.

Estimate: 100,000 USD - 150,000 USD

Estimate: 90,000 CHF - 130,000 CHF

Estimate: 70,000 EUR - 105,000 EUR

Happy bidding!

[AP]

Queensland farm shed reveals 14th century timepiece

(Photo from Bonhams)

An extremely rare time-keeping device found in a bag of spare parts in a Queensland shed is estimated to fetch between GBP150,000 - 200,000 (AU$233,000-$311,000) at Bonhams' Fine Clocks and Scientific Instruments Sale on 13 December 2011.

Dating from 1396, this quadrant is the earliest of a group of three similar quadrants dated 1398, 1399 and c.1400, two of which are in the British Museum, and the other in the Dorset County Museum, Dorchester.

Like the other quadrants, the Queensland one shows equal hour markings i.e. the period from midnight to midnight is divided into twenty-four equal parts. This technique was one that was developed during the 14th century, with one of the earliest recorded uses of it being Richard II's abdication on 30 September 1399, which was stated to have been “at about the ninth stroke of the clock”.

On its reverse, the quadrant features a badge depicting a prone stag with a coronet around its throat, a symbol associated with Richard II. The tables on the back of the quadrant give the height of the sun at midday throughout the year.

(Photo from Bonhams)

Its owner Christopher Becker and his brother were playing in the shed of their family's cattle station in the mid-1970s when they came across the brass quadrant in a bag of pipe fittings. It struck them that it would make an excellent aid for their toy car games but their father, noticing that it was made of soft expensive metal, removed it from the boys.

The quadrant is believed to have been discovered by an ancestor of Becker’s in the mid 1800s in Northern England, before he emigrated to Australia. Christopher Becker's father attempted to find out more about it in the 1970s, taking it to the Queensland Museum, but they could only tell him that it was an astrolabe.

And so it remained on Christopher Becker's shelf, until earlier this year, when he decided to do some research. He found a number of references to similar quadrants with Richard II markings in a number of scientific journals, and his suspicions were confirmed by the British Museum

The 13 December auction catalogue is not yet available online, as items are still being invited for entry, but you can keep an eye out for it in Bonham’s listing of its future sales.

ADDENDUM : It failed to reach its reserve price and was passed in.

[AP]

Sold : John Wayne's Rolex King Midas

(Photo from Heritage Auctions)

The "Personal Property of John Wayne Signature Auction", conducted by Heritage Auctions, has just closed, with an astonishing total of $5,382,492 for the sale.

Amongst the items sold was Lot 44182, described as follows :

"An 18K Gold Rolex Cellini King Midas Integral Bracelet Wristwatch, Circa 1967. The Case: 28mm, reference #9630 (No. 557); sticker still in place; Dial: solid gold with gold "Baton" hands, sapphire crystal; Movement: manual wind; Bracelet: 18K gold integral with deployant buckle; Gross weight: 193.5 grams; watch is in working condition."

(Photo from Heritage Auctions)

The estimate had been $6,000 - $8,000. It sold for $26,290.

Apart from this watch having been owned by John Wayne, is there anything else special about it?

Well, Elvis also wore a Rolex King Midas Ref. 9360, number 343. It currently forms part of the collection at Graceland. Elvis’ King Midas was given to him as a token of appreciation for playing 6 days of sold-out concerts in 1970 at the Houston Astrodome Livestock Show & Rodeo.

Designed by Gerald Genta (Rolex had no idea of this, as the case was made separately in France, where Genta had found a case and bracelet manufacturer who could both meet and supply his requirements), the King Midas was a limited edition of 1000. First released in 1964, it was made from 18 carat white or yellow gold, and both the most expensive and the heaviest gold watch that Rolex were producing at the time. The words “King” and “Midas” are etched on either side of the crown, and on the clasp.

In a design move reflective of contemporary watch box designs which reflect the theme of the watch, the King Midas came in a black and red ancient Greek-styled urn. The ref. 9630 was followed by the ref. 3580 King Midas, also produced in a limited edition. The ladies' model was named Queen Midas, ref. 3581.

The watch is often confused for the later Rolex Cellini Midas, but word “Midas” is on the dial in the traditional Greek i.e. “ΜΙΔΑΣ”, as opposed to the “Cellini”, which appeared on the Cellini Midas models. As you can see, Heritage themselves made an error in the description, by referring to it as "Cellini".

[AP]

Lange Zeitwerk piece unique for Kidz Horizon

For many watch enthusiasts, it is a quiet sort of a hobby (or obsession, in some cases), and in the pre-internet days, this was even more so. The creation of the WWW provided a boon to people interested in watches in terms of acquisition, sale, and meeting others of a like mind.

I was late to the online watch fora party; it wasn’t until early 2007 that I took the plunge into this mad world. The forum into which I first dipped my horological toe was Horomundi, now called Revolution Online. I can’t remember my reasons for choosing it, but I do remember that one of them was that compared to most other fora, it was still a relatively new and small community, the latter being important to me. I was welcomed, and I became a regular forum member.

It was on HM that I first came across Duncan Wang, who was not only one of the Mods but also one of the people behind the its founding. He was always welcoming to new members, happy to share his knowledge, and crazily generous to the forum. The backbone to the original HM community in many ways, his generosity to charities both in Singapore and abroad, especially children’s charities, was well known.

Over the next few years, Duncan became not only a “watch mentor” to me, but a dear friend as well.

Despite his not insignificant collection, he was low key about his watches, and would always show an interest (and a sharp sense of humour) in whatever new acquisition I’d bore him to tears with, even the US$29 1970s watch I got on ebay. Our tastes overlapped a bit, but not so much that we couldn’t engage in vigorous discussions about the merits (or otherwise) of various watches.

In 2009, I booked my flight to visit Duncan and other friends in Singapore. I was a week or so too late. I decided to continue the trip to Singapore, and to remember him in my own way; to eat at some of his favourite places with some of his friends, to visit a few watch shops and yes, I even bought a watch.

Shortly after he passed away, Duncan's parents in the U.S. requested that his friends in Singapore find a fitting way to remember him each year, based on the two things that he was most passionate about - watches and his favourite charities. 

So it was that in August last year, the first "Duncan watch" was auctioned for a children's charity in Singapore that he had supported : the Kidz Horizon Appeal for children with chronic illnesses such as cancer or HIV.

There was a bit of history to his involvement with Kidz Horizon. In 2007, Duncan's bid for a Vacheron Constantin timepiece had helped to raise S$75,000 for this cause.

"On this piece, the Singapore flag was hand-painted onto the rotor creating a truly memorable piece. Personally, I have always had a tremendous affinity for the Republic of Singapore and have spent much of the past 10 years living there. The opportunity to own this special piece and help a worthy cause was irresistible. As a person with considerable involvement with charities, I always respect companies that demonstrate a true commitment to giving back to the community and Vacheron Constantin has been a tremendous supporter of charitable purposes, be them organizations assisting the less fortunate or those supporting the arts. Not only does the company produce the highest quality timepieces, but it also sets a standard for civic mindedness that I admire and hope other organizations will emulate."

(Duncan Wang, May 23 2008 --- [www.thehourlounge.com])

The 2010 Vacheron timepiece raised S$60,000. Fittingly, since he was a native New Yorker, this watch was the re-issue of a timepiece that Vacheron Constantin first made for the American market in 1921.

This year, the brand is A. Lange & Söhne, who have offered to the Wang family a piece unique white gold example of their stunning and desirable (can you tell that I want one?) Zeitwerk as the “Duncan watch”, to be auctioned on August 27, 2011. This is the first Lange watch to be specially produced for a charity in Asia.

The Zeitwerk, features the movement caliber L041 and of special note because it was the first ever large digital display for a mechanical wristwatch.

These two inscriptions on the caseback “1/1” and “SGP 2011”, are highly unusual for A. Lange & Söhne, which rarely takes special requests for limited editions, and almost never with an inscription indicating that it is a pièce unique, or with the name of a city and year. The special exception was made by Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid as a recognition to Duncan as a collector and friend of the brand.

The main differences between the regular Zeitwerk in white gold Ref.140.029 and the one-of-a-kind Ref. 140.049F are as follows:

On the left, is the Ref. 140.029, and on the right, is the one-of-kind Lange Zeitwerk made for this year’s Kidz Horizon Appeal Charity Ball.

1. The regular white gold case has a black dial. The special watch has a grey dial.

2. The regular white gold case has digital sub-dials in black Arabic numerals on white background. The special watch has white Arabic numerals on grey background.

3. The special engraving at the rear bezel: "1/1 SGP 2011" is unique to this special watch.

4. The regular white gold case has a pin buckle, while this piece unique is fitted with a fold-over clasp.

SPECIFICATIONS:

Reference: 140.049F

Movement: Lange manufacture calibre L043.1, manually wound, crafted to the most exacting Lange quality standards, decorated and assembled by hand; precision-adjusted in five positions; three-quarter plate made of untreated German silver; balance cock engraved by hand; jumping minutes; constant-force escapement

Number of movement parts: 388

Jewels: 66

Screwed gold chatons: 2

Escapement: Lever escapement

Oscillation system: Shock-resistant Glucydur® balance* with eccentric poising weights; superior-quality balance spring manufactured in-house with patent-pending attachment system (balance spring clamp), frequency 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour, precision beat adjustment system with lateral setscrew and whiplash spring

Power reserve: 36 hours when fully wound

Functions: Jumping hours and minutes, small seconds hand with stop seconds, power-reserve indicator

Case dimensions : Diameter: 41.9 millimetres; height: 12.6 millimetres

Movement dimensions: Diameter: 33.6 millimetres; height: 9.3 millimetres

Case: White gold

Dial: Solid silver, grey

Time bridge: German silver

Hands: Rhodiumed gold

Glass and caseback: Sapphire crystal (hardness 9)

Strap: Hand-stitched crocodile strap, black

Buckle: Lange folding clasp in solid white gold

Edition: 1, with special engraving: “1/1 SGP 2011”

He was a man of strong principle, fierce loyalty and above all, a man with a big heart and generous spirit. The usual price of the white gold Lange Zeitwerk is $84,900, but I am certain that the auction will bring in an amount above this, for a worthy cause.

Duncan always believed that a watch should not be a safe queen, but used for the purpose for which it was created, so happy bidding, and may the watch will go to a home where it be will worn and enjoyed.

[AP]

(Many thanks to KC for the use of the photos and information about the auction)

 

Schwarzenegger ‘Time to Give’ Piece Unique up for auction

Antiquorum’s next "Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces" auction on June 8, 2011 in New York includes an item which was most likely included in the sale before the rather public revelations of watch collector/ex-actor/ ex-Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger’s infidelity, ten year old child, and the resulting marital breakup. No doubt the current situation will lead to greater interest in watch, though whether that will translate to a higher realised price is another question altogether.

Lot 351 is an Audemars Piguet Piece Unique made in 2000 for the company's 125th anniversary, its caseback engraved with Schwarzenegger's signature. Made for the inaugural 'Time to Give' charity auction co-hosted by Arnold Schwarzenegger and Muhammad Ali, the catalogue description is as follows :

“AUDEMARS PIGUET - TITANIUM & PINK GOLD GRAND COMPLICATION MADE TO CELEBRATE THE 125TH ANNIVERSARY OF AUDEMARS PIGUET SPECIFICALLY FOR THE INAUGURAL 'TIME TO GIVE' CHARITY AUCTION AND BEARING THE SIGNATURE OF ARNOLD SCHWARZENEGGER - PIECE UNIQUE Audemars Piguet, Genève, “Grande Complication," case No. E 24036.

Made for the 125th Anniversary of Audemars Piguet and offered as a unique piece for charity in 2000. Extremely fine and unique, large, minute-repeating, water-resistant, self-winding, titanium and 18K pink gold wristwatch with co-axial round button split-seconds chronograph, register, perpetual calendar with indication of the weeks, moon phases and an integrated titanium and 18K pink gold Audemars Piguet link bracelet with deployant clasp. Accompanied by the certificate of authenticity and instructions. Three-body, solid, polished and brushed, octagonal bezel with 8 hexagonal recessed polished stainless steel nuts screwed to 8 screws on the case back, transparent case back with Arnold Schwarzenegger’s laser engraved signature, co-axial button on the winding crown to operate the split-seconds function, sapphire crystals. Textured copper colour with luminous white gold baton indexes, outer 1/5th seconds track with 5-minute/seconds Arabic markers, subsidiary dials for the 30-minute register and days of the week at 3, the months and leap years at 6, the seconds and date at 9, the weeks of the year at 12 concentric with the aperture for the moon phases. Luminous white gold baton hands. M. Cal. 2885, rhodium-plated, oeil de perdrix decoration, 52 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, hand-engraved gold rotor, repeating on gongs by activating slide on the band. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 45 mm. Thickness 15 mm. Approx. overall length 200 mm.”

Estimate: 250,000 USD - 350,000 USD/ 215,000 CHF - 300,000 CHF/ 170,000 EUR - 235,000 EUR

You can see (and hear) the watch here :

The rest of the catalogue can be viewed here.

Happy bidding!

[AP]


9 June 2011 : The watch fetched a hammer price of USD310, 000. That's 374,500 USD with the buyer's premium.

George Tyler 'clock watch' presented by Queen Anne to the Earl of Cromarty

I have already blogged about one interesting 'watch' that is up for auction at Heritage Auctions. Here is another item from the same collection. It could not be more different to the spy watch, but it is also historically interesting, albeit in a completely different (and definitely more horological) way.

The description of the lot is as follows :

"LOT 60222

George Tyler London Rare and Unique Gold Clock Watch Presented by Queen Anne to the Earl of Cromarty, circa 1702

Case: 58 mm, pierced 20k gold outer, inscribed on the back “The gift of Anne Stuart Queen of Great Britain and Ireland to the Earl of Cromarty,” outer case with makers mark of WI, five profile repoussé figures on the back, five raised cherubs around the bezel, five piece side box hinge, gilt inner case (tests low karat in content), inner steel bell, inner case pierced with star shapes, silent - strike lever positioned near ten o’clock, bulls eye glass crystal.

Dial: white enamel with Roman hour numerals, black minute track, outer five minute numerals, gold heart shaped hands.

Movement: fire gilt pinned full plate, verge escapement and fusee, one hour strike on steel bell, winged single footed pierced and masked cock, pierced Egyptian pillars, tapered cylindrical pillars near the clock strike train, silver disc regulator, engraved clock spring barrel, leaf engraving around the dial plate.

Signed: George Tyler London on the movement.

George Tyler is listed as having apprenticed in 1692, becoming a master in the Clockmaker Company from 1699 to 1723.

Anne was crowned Queen on April 23, 1702 after the death of William III. George Mackenzie was viscount, tarbat and the first Earl of Cromarty. He was born in 1624. He was clerk of the privy council and a senator in the college of justice. James II also made him a baron and viscount. Queen Anne appointed him as secretary of state and the Earl of Cromarty. He died in 1714 at the age of eighty-eight. He was a highly learned nobleman and the author of a “Vindication of Robert III, the King of Scotland from the charge of bastardy.” He also wrote the Synopsis Apocalyptica and an explication of the Revelations."

The Heritage catalogue notes that this watch was left un-numbered by the maker, since it was a specially commissioned piece by the Queen.

The Clockmakers’ Company is an active City of London craft guild, founded under a Royal Charter of King Charles I in 1631. Its original purpose was to regulate and encourage watch and clock making and its related skills such as engraving, sundial making and mathematical instrument making. The Company took particular interest in quality control, training (through apprenticeships) and the welfare of its members.

In theory at least, no-one could make, buy or sell clocks or watches or any part of them within the City unless they first became a freeman of the Company. This was achieved through apprenticeship to a free Clockmaker, through redemption (purchase) or patrimony (the right of a child to follow a parent into the Company).

Interestingly, whilst trying to find out more about Tyler I found this list of apprentices who were bound in the Worshipful Company of Clockmakers to George Tyler and his wife Lucy :

5 Jan 1714/15 Mary Darby

28 April 1716 Rebeckah Fisher

3 April 1718 Eleanor Mosely

5 Jan 1719/20 Catherine Jackson

5 June 1722 Hannah Campleshon

4 June 1725 Elizabeth Newton

Sources: London Guildhall (hereafter LG): The Company of Clockmakers' Register of Apprentices 1631-1931, compiled by C.E. Atkins, London, 1931, and LG: AHS Pam 51, Female Apprentices in the London Clockmakers' Company; LG: Ms 2711/5, Clockmakers' Company Rough Minute Book, 1719-31. 

Eleanor Moseley (sometimes appearing in records as “Elinor Mosely”) seems to have been significant enough to appear in a number of papers and specialist works relating to women watchmakers. The daughter of a prosperous York apothecary, she was seventeen years old when she was bound as an apprentice in London to George Tyler and his wife, Lucy, who was a milliner. Her indenture was registered with the Worshipful Company of Clockmakers, of which George was a freeman. 

In 1726, Eleanor took the freedom of the Clockmakers' Company and her first apprentice: her fifteen year old sister, Catherine Mosley. She took on a further apprentice, Mary Bate, the same year, followed by Katherine Capon in 1737, Mary Newton in 1732, and Elizabeth Askell in 1734.

Sixty seven women were listed as having been apprenticed in the clock making trade in the period of the mid seventeenth to late eighteenth century (p.81, All men and both sexes: gender, politics, and the false universal in England, 1640-1832 by Hilda L. Smith, Penn State Press, 2002) but there seems to be some confusion as to whether some of these women, like Moseley herself, were in fact  actually clockmakers or milliners. Louise Erickson states that in fact Moseley was the latter, and that she must have been in training with George’s wife Lucy.

I found it rather fascinating to learn that there were women watchmakers during that period, I had no idea, regardless of whether or not some of the recorded female watchmakers were in fact as such, or in fact milliners.

The estimate for this elegant 'piece unique' with its beautifully decorated caseback is: $30,000-$40,000, with a reserve price of $20,000. You can now bid online for it here as an absentee bid. Absentee Bidding Ends: May 2, 2011 at 10:00 PM CT (U.S.)

[AP]

The Protana - the original ‘spy watch’

Who isn’t intrigued by even the mere mention of spy and espionage devices? Whether we’re talking about the over-the-top comedy of Maxwell Smart’s shoe phone, the reality of miniature cameras hidden in cigarette packets, or even the poison tipped umbrella used by the Bulgarian secret services, spy gadgetry and methodology is eternally fascinating. Last year’s publication of MI6: The History of the Secret Intelligence Service 1909-1949 by Prof. Keith Jeffery revealed that during the First World War (1915, to be exact) Walter Kirke, deputy head of military intelligence at GHQ France, wrote in his diary that Mansfield Cumming, the first chief (or "C") of the SIS was "making enquiries for invisible inks at the London University" and that,several months later, C notified Kirke that the best invisible ink is semen, as it did not react to the main methods of detection (especially iodine vapour) and would be easy to obtain.

But I digress.

A very desirable and rare Cold War spy artefact has come up for auction – a Protana Watch Spy Recording Device, which comes with the complete set of Minifon surveillance accessories that it came with when they were first sold in the 1950s for US$350.

The Minifon, developed in the 1950s by Monske GMBH, was an miniaturised battery operated magnetic recording device. It could not (initially at least) record a full range of sounds and was thus limited to voice recording, but it did offer a portability that had hitherto been unavailable.

Although not originally intended as such (it was meant to be a dictation machine), it became popular for surveillance work. It had a recording time of one hour, and weighed three pounds, costing US$289.50.

The one being auctioned is the Minifon Pocket Wire P-55 kit, a special wire recorder marketed directly to espionage and intelligence organisations, police departments and private detectives. 

This updated recorder was smaller than the other versions of the Minifon and designed for covert use. However, you could not play back anything that had been recorded. The kit consisted of the P-55 Pocket Wire Recorder, a regular Minifon for playback and several covert mics, one of which was made to look like a watch, although it did not function as one.

Vintage Jump Hours at Sotheby's

Those who know me well know of my fondness for alternative time displays, particularly direct read and jump hour watches. I don’t understand why they aren’t more popular, but a couple of interesting  jump hour pocket watches are coming up for auction at Sotheby's in the next two weeks, so I thought I’d share them and perhaps introduce non-watch folks to these time displays. Catalogue descriptions are taken directly from Sotheby's. My additional notes are in square brackets.

Important Watches

Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (New Wing) 
7 Apr 2011, 10:00 AM & 2:00 PM | Sale HK0352

LOT 2174

ATTRIBUTED TO VACHERON CONSTANTIN - A YELLOW GOLD AND ENAMEL JUMP HOUR QUARTER REPEATING OPEN-FACED WATCH.  

CIRCA 1830.

Gilt movement with cylinder escapement, flat three-armed balance. Silvered engine-turned dial, aperture at 12 o'clock for jump hour display, subsidiary seconds. Yellow gold case, front and reverse decorated with black and white enamel foliate motif, with aperture for jump hour display at 12 o'clock on front case. Cuvette signed, case and cuvette numbered. Diameter 48 mm.

ESTIMATE 55,000 - 70,000 HKD

[Vacheron Constantin have a long history with this form of time telling, as this history of them by Alex Ghotbi shows]

LOT 38

SWISS.

A GOLD AND ENAMEL JUMP HOUR WATCH, MADE FOR THE TURKISH MARKET.

CIRCA 1840.

Cylinder movement, gold cuvette enhanced by flowering vines in gold and opaque powder blue enamel, against a guilloche ground with translucent peach enamel. White enamel dial with Turkish numerals, aperture for jumping hours, eccentric chapter ring, subsidiary seconds. Case with apertures displaying hours and seconds, each framed in lobed cartouches depicting bursts of spring flowers, the background with opaque blue enamel and flowering vines, the reverse with polychrome enamel painting of ships within a seascape in scalloped frame. Case and cuvette numbered. Diameter 48 mm.

ESTIMATE 8,000 - 12,000 USD

Important Watches and Clocks

New York | 13 Apr 2011, 10:00 AM | Sale N08739

LOT 55

TOUCHON - AN 18K WHITE GOLD OPEN-FACED JUMP HOUR WATCH.

CIRCA 1920.

Movement marked Extra, 19 jewels, silvered dial, Arabic minutes tracking, aperture for jump hour, subsidiary seconds, coin-edge band and pendant, monogram to case back. Case, dial and movement signed. Diameter 41 mm.

ESTIMATE 4,000 - 6,000 USD

[Touchon & Co. was established around 1907 and ceased in 1921 as an independent entity before being incorporated into Wittnauer. According to this site, Touchon mainly supplied watches (complete or otherwise) to other companies such as Tiffany & Co (their major client) or various American jewellers. As such, much of their work was unsigned]

LOT 60

CARTIER/ EUROPEAN WATCH & CLOCK CO., INC. - PLATINUM OPEN-FACED JUMP HOUR WATCH.

CIRCA 1920.

19 jewels, ssilvered guilloché dial, Arabic minute tracking, aperture for jump hour. Monogram to case back. Case with handstamped Cartier reference numbers, dial signed Cartier, movement signed European Watch & Clock Co., Inc. Diameter 45 mm

ESTIMATE 5,000 - 7,000 USD

If nothing takes your fancy amongst these, you can check out the rest of the items (including other vintage pocket watches) at both of these auctions via their online catalogues here and here.

[AP]

World record amount paid for Rolex wristwatch

Antiquorum's most recent watch auction, "Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces", was held in Geneva on Sunday, March 27, with a result of  CHF 6,457,937 (USD 7,057, 360) for 564 timepieces, with 83 % sold.

One of the most notable sales was that of Lot 527 - Rolex "Oyster Perpetual" Ref. 6284, an extremely rare 14k yellow gold wristwatch with a cloisonné enamel dial of the two Americas by Marguerite Koch. The pre-sale estimate for this watch was CHF 130,000 - 190,000, but it realised a staggering CHF 662,500, a world record not only for a time-only Rolex watch, but a record for a Rolex cloisonné enamel dial timepiece as well.

Here is the description from the catalogue :

LOT 527

Rolex Ref. 6284 Two Americas Cloisonne Dial by Marguerite Koch Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual", Ref. 6284. Made in only six examples circa 1950. Exceptionally rare and fine, self-winding, water-resistant, 14K yellow gold wristwatch with cloisonné enamel map of the two Americas. 

Sold (including buyer's premium) : 662,500 CHF

[AP]

Define Watches - auction for the Premier's Disaster Relief Appeal

This Summer has been a difficult one in Australia, from floods in Queensland, Victoria and NSW, to bushfires and Cyclone Yasi in North Queensland.

We were very relieved to hear that our fellow Ristis in Brisbane in particular, were all safe.

Fortunately, our friends at Define Watches also escaped the worst of the floods in Brisbane, but as you know, many were not as lucky.

To assist in the rebuilding of their home town, Define Watches are conducting a watch auction with 100% of proceeds going to the Premier’s Disaster Relief Appeal.

In a very generous act, all the timepieces to be auctioned have been donated by the relevant German and Swiss watchmakers, and include the following :

Armin Strom - Blue Chip Power Reserve

Jörg Schauer - Edition 10 white dial
Personalised with initials of the buyer on the dial

MeisterSinger - No 03
Special Edition Black PVD (AM 910)

The watches will be auctioned from 9:00 am on Feb 21 to midnight, February 27.

Details of all watches being auctioned, and the registration and bidding process, can be found here.

For any additional information call Peter on 07 3395 7728 or 0401 326 998 or email him at pp@definewatches.com.au

Happy bidding, and please support this worthy cause.

Rolex 5510 - Christie's Auction 2366

If you lost out on the recent much talked about ebay auction of a Rolex 5510 covered here by Hodinkee, you can always try for this one, up for auction at Christie's Sale 2366 on 14 December in New York. It’s lot 166 and the estimate is US $40,000 - $60,000.

"Lot Description

ROLEX. A FINE AND RARE STAINLESS STEEL AUTOMATIC WRISTWATCH WITH CENTER SECONDS AND BRACELET.

SIGNED ROLEX, OYSTER PERPETUAL, 200M=660FT, SUBMARINER, MOVEMENT NO. 50558, CASE NO. 361913, REF. 5510, CIRCA 1958

Cal. 1530 nickel-finished lever movement, 25 jewels, black gloss dial, luminescent baton, dot and triangular numerals, center seconds, tonneau water-resistant-type case, revolving black bezel calibrated for 60 units, screw-down crown, screw back stamped 1.1958 and engraved ROLEX OYSTER CASE, case, dial and movement signed, stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet and deployant clasp.

38mm diam. 

Accompanied by a Rolex service box and additional watch parts.

This last version of the Submariner model without the crown guard is also the last model of an historical and experimental era during which small quantities of unusual and varying diver's watches were made. In production during a short period of time only, it is assumed that the reference 5510 was made in an exceedingly small series of less than 300 examples."

This auction also contains something unexpected. Well for us, anyway.

Actor Anthony LaPaglia appears to be a watch collector of some quantity and breadth; he is getting rid of some watches via the same auction. In fact lots 199 to 420 are all from his collection. That’s a staggering amount of watches by any stretch of a collector’s imagination, but it’s not just about quantity, it’s quality as well. You’ll find some rare vintage Rolexes, Langes, a Panerai Ref. 3646, vintage Blancpain 50 Fathoms, Omegas, vintage pocket watches…fairly much something for every watch enthusiast and collector.

Take a look at what he's selling, I can find at least two dozen that I'd be more than happy to provide a new home for...


[AP]



Postscript : 15 Dec - Price realised $98,500

For the prices realise for the LaPaglia watches, click here for the first lot. 

If you want to learn more about the Rolex 5510, you can read some notes here.