Showing posts with label moonphase. Show all posts
Showing posts with label moonphase. Show all posts

Sunday, May 12, 2013

Baselworld 2013 - Moonphase trend continues...

We mentioned a trend that was happening during SIHH this year in January - the triple date moonphase trend, and this continues on in Basel with Vulcain AND Maurice Lacroix both releasing a triple date moonphase in the classic layout (ie day and month just under 12:00 and moonphase at 6:00).

Vulcain 50s President's Moonphase have certain done a very good job with it, and personally am very happy to see the slate/anthracite grey dial used on a stainless steel entry level model. The movement is ETA based, with a calendar/moonphase module stacked on top. Given the price range of the Vulcain range, I wouldn't expect the RRP to be all that unreasonable. At 42mm this is quite wearable, and definitely plays well above its price grade. The difficult part would be to actually find one to look at and try on in Oz. Unless you're willing to buy sight unseen... The 42mm case can be had in rose gold or stainless steel, with sapphire crystal front and back, powered by an automatic Vulcain caliber V-58 (base ETA).



Maurice Lacroix's Masterpiece Tradition Phases de Lune offering is also quite conservative and traditional in appearance, however, you do have your choice of colour combinations and bracelet/leather straps. The stainless steel case is 40mm in diametre, with sapphire crystal front and back, 50m water resistant, powered by ML Calibre 367 (base ETA). The dial can be had with guilloche finishing or lacquered mirror finish.



Friday, April 26, 2013

Baselworld 2013 - Frederique Constant Slimline Moonphase

Frederique Constant has produced in my opinion, an absolute winner this year at Baselworld. A simple and elegant slim line moonphase watch with an in-house movement. At first glance you might be forgiven in thinking that you've seen it before. It's almost as if they took a Girard Perregaux 1966 triple date moonphase, took out the day and month and the second hand to arrive at a very clean and fresh rival to the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon. For me personally, Frederique Constant has always flown under the radar. They make some elegant watches, but I think the brand recognition still has some ways to go.




This piece SHOULD get more recognition. And if the pricing information on the interwebs is correct (starting around $3500) And starting at 2650 euro (going off the Frederique Constant website and assuming VAT is included) this is an absolute bargain given it's about a third of the price of the JLC, but with pretty much all the looks. At this price you really do need to ask yourself, what prices the brand image and history? In fact, I may even prefer the FC over the JLC. Both are "slim", both powered by in-house movements, moonphase at 6:00 with date around the aperture... you do the maths. However, the FC may have one over the JLC in that all the functions are integrated into the 3-position crown where as there are separate pushers for the moonphase and date on the JLC. It's just much easier and more convenient to operate everything from the crown.



The JLC Master Ultra Thin Moon is one of their best sellers ever since it was launched in SIHH 2011 so I have no doubt that the FC will do just as well. I think it's a classic dial layout that you cannot go wrong with. It is a fairly big watch at 42mm (in dress watch terms), compared to the more manageable and versatile 39mm of the JLC, but proportionally it works quite well.

The watch actually sparked a conversation/debate between Horologium, Initial J and myself, and you can have a read of Horologium's perspective here. However, we are all in agreement that it is a stunning piece, and it is so refreshing to see a watch with an in-house movement for this sort of price. Once I recover from the shock of the price, I'll pick my jaw off the ground and get myself in line for one of these beauties.

If you're still not convinced, here are more images to whet your appetite. Click on the image to enlarge.
Now I don't know how much of these images are the actual watch and how much are photography skills and post editing, but regardless, these are simply stunning and achingly beautiful!





Wednesday, January 23, 2013

SIHH 2013 - TREND: Triple Date Moonphase


I have a feeling that all the brands from SIHH/GTE are holding something back to around late April, you know, just to steal some thunder from the brands that show their new ware at Baselworld. But having seen the releases so far (through the wonderful medium of the interwebs) it seems there is a bit of a trend going on...

The most obvious one that caught my attention was the amount of new "triple date moonphase" watches launched this year. Granted. one of these is an annual calendar (ie only need to change the date in feb) and one has a tourbillon hidden from front view, but nevertheless they all have day-date-month-moonphase on top of time display. Three of the brands have a more traditional dial layout, one has a modern fresh taken on the traditional layout. Three automatics, two manuals.

Personally I find the moonphase one of the most useless complications to have, (I don't follow the lunar calendar, nor am I a werewolf or a witch...) however, I love it as it prettys up the dial. It gives and otherwise boring and monotone the dial that extra pop of colour.

So if moonphase is your thing and you need to know the day-date-month at a quick glance, (no we don't resort to looking at our smarty phones for that. No way.) here are your choices from SIHH/GTE 2013: (all price points and materials covered too!)

(In alphabetical order)

A.Lange & Sohne Saxonia Annual Calendar





Baume & Mercier Clifton 1830 Complete Calendar Moonphase



De Bethune DB16 Tourbillon




Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Calendar



Montblanc Star Quantieme Complet