Showing posts with label Lange. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Lange. Show all posts

Friday, January 30, 2015

Top 7 Thinnest Ultra Thin Mechanical Watches

It looks like ultra thin is still very much in vogue, and given our love of listicles these days, we thought we'd do one based on ultra thin watches. However, we're not going to be lazy like some websites out there and just give you a random selection of so-called ultra thin watches just because they looked thin or might have the terms "ultra" and "thin" in the name of the watch. No. The Tarts readers expect more. Hence the reason why even though we really wanted to do a top 10, we couldn't find 10 watches that fit the below criteria.

So what was our criteria for choosing the ultra thin watches for this list? Well, they all have to be powered by a mechanical movement, be Swiss or German made, and are simple, time only watches with the only complication being that it's thin. How thin is thin, you ask? we needed to draw the line somewhere, so we chose 6mm as a limit for the thickness of the watch case. Granted, had we raised it to 7mm, we might have found 10 watches for a proper top 10 list, but then that's just being too all-inclusive isn't it?? and 7mm?? That's not ultra thin.


Here we go, starting from the *ahem* thickest:

A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin - 5.9mm

The "thickest" watch on this list is also the only watch from Germany.


Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie Ultra Slim - 5.8mm

The only watch on the list that uses an outsourced, albeit very reliable movement, and the only piece with a pricing in the four figures. Low four figures, mind you... (the steel version that is. below image is obviously of the gold variety...)



Breguet Classique ultra thin - 5.4mm

Probably the most classical looking watch of the bunch. Featuring prominent Breguet design cues such as the hands and the guilloche dial



Bvlgari Octo Finissimo - 5.0mm

The only watch on this list featuring a running seconds hand. YOu gotta give them that. It takes up additional height to have an extra subdial with an additional hand. This is also the only watch that features a complex case (ie, not round).




Vacheron Constantin Historique 1955 - 4.1mm

It wasn't that long ago this Vacheron held the title for the thinnest mechanical watch in the world. How quickly times change and records tumble!



Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin 1907 - 4.05mm

To show how quickly things change, JLC barely held the title for the thinnest mechanical watch (less than a year).




Piaget Altiplano 900P 3.65mm

Still the thinnest at the moment. I know I wondered whether it was possible to get any thinner. I didn't think it was. However, sources close to the watch industry suggests this record may be broken sooner than we think...


Tuesday, January 20, 2015

SIHH 2015: MontBlanc's Tribute to Jaeger-LeCoultre and A.Lange & Sohne

As we all know the Swiss watch industry is small. So small that sometimes it feels a little incestuous. Why incestuous? Well, when brands within the same group jumps in bed with each other (or maybe just the designers??) they come up with quite, erm, similar looking watches which may or may not be a pillow talk too far after one too many St Moritz at Grand Hotel Kempinski.

I suppose when it's within the same group it's ok, whereas if it's from a competitor, you can be sure high-priced lawyers are on the ready. This SIHH,  we have the new MontBlanc Dual Time, which takes the case from JLC, mate it with dial and hands from Lange, slap on the nunber 12, and call it a day. Oh, and of course, undercut both brands in pricing.



Look I know I'm being a little mean here. There is nothing wrong with taking the best of the designs and something that's worked, and refine it for a different market. Everyone needs to make money, and Jerome Lambert (who's hand a HUGE influence in making JLC what it is today and I believe, have also had a hand in directing Lange) needs to bring up the watchmaking side of MontBlanc, cuz as we all know, people don't much use pens these days...

Taking inspiration from models that are known to work is a short cut to success. These watches are designed to appeal to first time prestige watch buyers. Someone who's not able to afford a JLC or a Lange just yet, but loved the look, and knows the brand.The picky anal watch collectors are collectively shaking their heads at MontBlanc watches, but seriously, Jerome wasn't given that role for no reason. I'll say give him another 5 years and you'll see. MontBlanc will no longer be known as a penmaker with a bit of wallets on the side.

MontBlanc Heritage Chronométrie Dual Time Specs

Calibre MB 29.19 with Manufacture complication

Power reserve Approx. 42 hours

Case diametre: 41mm

Case height: 10mm

Price: 3990 Euro

Wednesday, January 23, 2013

SIHH 2013 - TREND: Triple Date Moonphase


I have a feeling that all the brands from SIHH/GTE are holding something back to around late April, you know, just to steal some thunder from the brands that show their new ware at Baselworld. But having seen the releases so far (through the wonderful medium of the interwebs) it seems there is a bit of a trend going on...

The most obvious one that caught my attention was the amount of new "triple date moonphase" watches launched this year. Granted. one of these is an annual calendar (ie only need to change the date in feb) and one has a tourbillon hidden from front view, but nevertheless they all have day-date-month-moonphase on top of time display. Three of the brands have a more traditional dial layout, one has a modern fresh taken on the traditional layout. Three automatics, two manuals.

Personally I find the moonphase one of the most useless complications to have, (I don't follow the lunar calendar, nor am I a werewolf or a witch...) however, I love it as it prettys up the dial. It gives and otherwise boring and monotone the dial that extra pop of colour.

So if moonphase is your thing and you need to know the day-date-month at a quick glance, (no we don't resort to looking at our smarty phones for that. No way.) here are your choices from SIHH/GTE 2013: (all price points and materials covered too!)

(In alphabetical order)

A.Lange & Sohne Saxonia Annual Calendar





Baume & Mercier Clifton 1830 Complete Calendar Moonphase



De Bethune DB16 Tourbillon




Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Calendar



Montblanc Star Quantieme Complet




Thursday, July 7, 2011

Lange Zeitwerk piece unique for Kidz Horizon



For many watch enthusiasts, it is a quiet sort of a hobby (or obsession, in some cases), and in the pre-internet days, this was even more so. The creation of the WWW provided a boon to people interested in watches in terms of acquisition, sale, and meeting others of a like mind.

I was late to the online watch fora party; it wasn’t until early 2007 that I took the plunge into this mad world. The forum into which I first dipped my horological toe was Horomundi, now called Revolution Online. I can’t remember my reasons for choosing it, but I do remember that one of them was that compared to most other fora, it was still a relatively new and small community, the latter being important to me. I was welcomed, and I became a regular forum member.

It was on HM that I first came across Duncan Wang, who was not only one of the Mods but also one of the people behind the its founding. He was always welcoming to new members, happy to share his knowledge, and crazily generous to the forum. The backbone to the original HM community in many ways, his generosity to charities both in Singapore and abroad, especially children’s charities, was well known.

Over the next few years, Duncan became not only a “watch mentor” to me, but a dear friend as well.

Despite his not insignificant collection, he was low key about his watches, and would always show an interest (and a sharp sense of humour) in whatever new acquisition I’d bore him to tears with, even the US$29 1970s watch I got on ebay. Our tastes overlapped a bit, but not so much that we couldn’t engage in vigorous discussions about the merits (or otherwise) of various watches.

In 2009, I booked my flight to visit Duncan and other friends in Singapore. I was a week or so too late. I decided to continue the trip to Singapore, and to remember him in my own way; to eat at some of his favourite places with some of his friends, to visit a few watch shops and yes, I even bought a watch.

Shortly after he passed away, Duncan's parents in the U.S. requested that his friends in Singapore find a fitting way to remember him each year, based on the two things that he was most passionate about - watches and his favourite charities. 

So it was that in August last year, the first "Duncan watch" was auctioned for a children's charity in Singapore that he had supported : the Kidz Horizon Appeal for children with chronic illnesses such as cancer or HIV.

There was a bit of history to his involvement with Kidz Horizon. In 2007, Duncan's bid for a Vacheron Constantin timepiece had helped to raise S$75,000 for this cause.

"On this piece, the Singapore flag was hand-painted onto the rotor creating a truly memorable piece. Personally, I have always had a tremendous affinity for the Republic of Singapore and have spent much of the past 10 years living there. The opportunity to own this special piece and help a worthy cause was irresistible. As a person with considerable involvement with charities, I always respect companies that demonstrate a true commitment to giving back to the community and Vacheron Constantin has been a tremendous supporter of charitable purposes, be them organizations assisting the less fortunate or those supporting the arts. Not only does the company produce the highest quality timepieces, but it also sets a standard for civic mindedness that I admire and hope other organizations will emulate."

(Duncan Wang, May 23 2008 --- [www.thehourlounge.com])

The 2010 Vacheron timepiece raised S$60,000. Fittingly, since he was a native New Yorker, this watch was the re-issue of a timepiece that Vacheron Constantin first made for the American market in 1921.

This year, the brand is A. Lange & Söhne, who have offered to the Wang family a piece unique white gold example of their stunning and desirable (can you tell that I want one?) Zeitwerk as the “Duncan watch”, to be auctioned on August 27, 2011. This is the first Lange watch to be specially produced for a charity in Asia.


The Zeitwerk, features the movement caliber L041 and of special note because it was the first ever large digital display for a mechanical wristwatch.

These two inscriptions on the caseback “1/1” and “SGP 2011”, are highly unusual for A. Lange & Söhne, which rarely takes special requests for limited editions, and almost never with an inscription indicating that it is a pièce unique, or with the name of a city and year. The special exception was made by Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid as a recognition to Duncan as a collector and friend of the brand.

The main differences between the regular Zeitwerk in white gold Ref.140.029 and the one-of-a-kind Ref. 140.049F are as follows:


On the left, is the Ref. 140.029, and on the right, is the one-of-kind Lange Zeitwerk made for this year’s Kidz Horizon Appeal Charity Ball.

1. The regular white gold case has a black dial. The special watch has a grey dial.
2. The regular white gold case has digital sub-dials in black Arabic numerals on white background. The special watch has white Arabic numerals on grey background.
3. The special engraving at the rear bezel: "1/1 SGP 2011" is unique to this special watch.
4. The regular white gold case has a pin buckle, while this piece unique is fitted with a fold-over clasp.


SPECIFICATIONS:

Reference: 140.049F
Movement: Lange manufacture calibre L043.1, manually wound, crafted to the most exacting Lange quality standards, decorated and assembled by hand; precision-adjusted in five positions; three-quarter plate made of untreated German silver; balance cock engraved by hand; jumping minutes; constant-force escapement
Number of movement parts: 388
Jewels: 66
Screwed gold chatons: 2
Escapement: Lever escapement
Oscillation system: Shock-resistant Glucydur® balance* with eccentric poising weights; superior-quality balance spring manufactured in-house with patent-pending attachment system (balance spring clamp), frequency 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour, precision beat adjustment system with lateral setscrew and whiplash spring
Power reserve: 36 hours when fully wound
Functions: Jumping hours and minutes, small seconds hand with stop seconds, power-reserve indicator
Case dimensions : Diameter: 41.9 millimetres; height: 12.6 millimetres
Movement dimensions: Diameter: 33.6 millimetres; height: 9.3 millimetres
Case: White gold
Dial: Solid silver, grey
Time bridge: German silver
Hands: Rhodiumed gold
Glass and caseback: Sapphire crystal (hardness 9)
Strap: Hand-stitched crocodile strap, black
Buckle: Lange folding clasp in solid white gold
Edition: 1, with special engraving: “1/1 SGP 2011”


He was a man of strong principle, fierce loyalty and above all, a man with a big heart and generous spirit. The usual price of the white gold Lange Zeitwerk is $84,900, but I am certain that the auction will bring in an amount above this, for a worthy cause.

Duncan always believed that a watch should not be a safe queen, but used for the purpose for which it was created, so happy bidding, and may the watch will go to a home where it be will worn and enjoyed.


[AP]

(Many thanks to KC for the use of the photos and information about the auction)
 

Sunday, April 11, 2010

JLC iW Dinner - Hong Kong


Jaeger le-Coultre released an impressive range of time pieces in 2010 and I was lucky enough to be invited to view these pieces at a dinner hosted by iW Magazine Hong Kong at the Conrad Hotel. The new Extreme Lab was just one of the many highlights of the evening.


The dinner menu was rather impressive too.


First course – refer to menu above. The creaminess and sweetness of the Alaskan crab made this the stand out dish amongst the three.


My dining companion on the right sported this little beauty.