Top 7 Thinnest Ultra Thin Mechanical Watches

It looks like ultra thin is still very much in vogue, and given our love of listicles these days, we thought we'd do one based on ultra thin watches. However, we're not going to be lazy like some websites out there and just give you a random selection of so-called ultra thin watches just because they looked thin or might have the terms "ultra" and "thin" in the name of the watch. No. The Tarts readers expect more. Hence the reason why even though we really wanted to do a top 10, we couldn't find 10 watches that fit the below criteria.

So what was our criteria for choosing the ultra thin watches for this list? Well, they all have to be powered by a mechanical movement, be Swiss or German made, and are simple, time only watches with the only complication being that it's thin. How thin is thin, you ask? we needed to draw the line somewhere, so we chose 6mm as a limit for the thickness of the watch case. Granted, had we raised it to 7mm, we might have found 10 watches for a proper top 10 list, but then that's just being too all-inclusive isn't it?? and 7mm?? That's not ultra thin.


Here we go, starting from the *ahem* thickest:

A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin - 5.9mm

The "thickest" watch on this list is also the only watch from Germany.

Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie Ultra Slim - 5.8mm

The only watch on the list that uses an outsourced, albeit very reliable movement, and the only piece with a pricing in the four figures. Low four figures, mind you... (the steel version that is. below image is obviously of the gold variety...)

Breguet Classique ultra thin - 5.4mm

Probably the most classical looking watch of the bunch. Featuring prominent Breguet design cues such as the hands and the guilloche dial

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo - 5.0mm

The only watch on this list featuring a running seconds hand. YOu gotta give them that. It takes up additional height to have an extra subdial with an additional hand. This is also the only watch that features a complex case (ie, not round).

Vacheron Constantin Historique 1955 - 4.1mm

It wasn't that long ago this Vacheron held the title for the thinnest mechanical watch in the world. How quickly times change and records tumble!

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin 1907 - 4.05mm

To show how quickly things change, JLC barely held the title for the thinnest mechanical watch (less than a year).

Piaget Altiplano 900P 3.65mm

Still the thinnest at the moment. I know I wondered whether it was possible to get any thinner. I didn't think it was. However, sources close to the watch industry suggests this record may be broken sooner than we think...

Top 10 Best Swiss/German Mechanical/Automatic watches under $1000 UPDATE: 2013

It's been just over a year since our first top 10 Swiss/German mechanical/automatic watches under $1000 was published and the response was overwhelming! We had no idea so many people were interested in high quality mechanical watches under $1000 and that this figure seemed to have really struck a chord. So one year one, we have decided to come up with an updated list of our top 10 Swiss/German mechanical/automatic watches under $1000.

A number of things have changed. firstly, the AUD isn't where it used to be. This meant a couple of watches that were under are now over, so they were excluded. There were also a few watches that people felt weren't really properly Swiss or German, so this year, we have stricter rules and definitions. To be included in this year's list, the watch MUST have either "Swiss Made" or "Made In Germany" on the dial.

German watches again takes up 50% of the slots, but not only that, the watches are so well priced that you could almost buy 2 for $1000. Funnily enough all of the German watches runs Swiss movements! And on with the list:


Steinhart Le Mans GT Automatic - 412 Euro (excl. VAT)

For this year I have chosen Le Mans GT automatic, as it is another of their in-house designs. It's pretty darn obvious from the name and the style what they were going for in this watch. For the price you get an elaboree grade ETA2824-2 movement, and amazing dial detailing AND case detailing. (Spoke of the alloy wheel on the dial, case is the tyre, with tyre grooves on the side of the case and strap, and the case back is the disc brake!) Granted this watch isn't for everyone, but for a motor racing fan, I think it's a must have. You can buy direct from their website.

http://www.steinhartwatches.de/en/Le-Mans-GT-automatic,559.html


Stowa Ikarus - from 488 Euro (excl. VAT)

The Ikarus is a stunning looking watch drawing on pilot watch design cues, but with a matte finished grey dial (apparently from galvanisation) and a subtle date window at 6:00. The layout is classic and with a diametre at 40mm, also extremely wearable. The Stowa case quality is top notch (a step above Steinhart) and it is powered by ETA2824-2. You have the option of upgrading a number of items on the watch for extra dough, direct from their website.

http://www.stowa.de/


Archimede Pilot 42 Automatic - 399 euro (excl. VAT)

On the list for the second year running- their prices have gone up a little bit, but still extremely good value.

One thing Archimede is famous for is the watch case. Their cases are made by Ickler, (who also produces watches under several other brands) and you know when I said the case is good for Steinhart at the price? Well, Archimede watch cases take it to an entirely different plane. I'd rate them alongside many of the bigger 'prestige' brands. Which makes their pilot watch, a pinch at 399 euros, steal of the century.That is, of course, if you like pilot watches. They do have other models in the range, but I think their Pilot line is the most successful. And everyone needs a Pilot watch in their collection, right? It's a classic that'll never go out of style. If you can afford it, for an extra 20 euro, you get a sterile dial ie, no branding, and that gives it a very clean look. And like a decent German car, you can also spend lots optioning up the watch with such luxury items as curved sapphire, custom engraving, bracelet etc. This is also available direct from their website.

http://www.archimede-uhren.de/archimede-uhren-kollektion-pilot-deckwatch-klassik-taucher-outdoor-automatik-handaufzug-chronograph-2824-6498-7750/pilot-automatik-2824-handaufzug-6498-chronograph-7750-b-uhr-fliegeruhr/pilot-42-automatik-fliegeruhr-b-uhr-eta-2824.html


Defakto Akkord - from 420 euro

On the list for the 2nd year in a row, we still love the styling and the pricing.
Their watches are also made by Ickler, so you know the case quality is top notch. But the Defakto brand itself enploys very minimalistic, bauhaus inspired designs. Perfect for those who are sick of paragraphs printed on dials. The Akkord is more traditional with 2 hands, (but you can also get 1-handed watches for that extra minimalistic look) and powered by ETA 2824. Available direct from their website. Like their sister brand, Archimede, you can also choose your customisation for the watch for extra dough.

http://www.defakto-uhren.de/en/configurator/


Max Bill by Junghans Manual - USD853

The last German watch on the list, it's their first appearance on the Tart's top 10. The watch style is bauhaus minimalistic, and it is a small diametre watch (at 34mm). However, as the watch is all dial and no bezel, it does wear bigger and it's great for someone looking for a dressy, understated watch. The height of the watch is only 8.8mm, which is really quite thin and will easily fit under the cuffs. The watch is powered by ETA2801-2 (essentially a 2824 without the rotor) and available direct from the website.

http://www.maxbillwatches.com/junghans-bill-mechanical-027370000-p-10.html


Christopher Ward C5 Malvern Auto/C8 Pilot Mk II Vintage - 396 Pounds

Yes another variation on the pilot watch. What can I say? It's a classic design! Chris Ward is an English brand with watches made in Switzerland. Their watches aren't bad at all, and should be considered if you can get over the awkward branding. CHRWARD just looks awkward.... The watch is powered by Sellita SW200-1 (essentially a 2824 clone) meaning you're not likely to have any issues. A lot of the bigger brands are switching over teo Sellita as ETA slowly decreases supplies to brands outside the swatchgroup and Sellita takes over the slack. You can get them direct from their website

http://www.christopherward.co.uk/men/aviation/c8-svkt-mk2.html


Mondaine Automatic - 439 Pounds (Maybe VAT back...)

Mondaine are known for being the Swiss railway clock. The distinctive dial is highly legible and can be accurately read at a distance, thanks to its high contrast colours and simplicity. In 1986 this design was interpreted into the wristwatch form and they haven't looked back since. Most Mondaine watches are quartz, but they do have a small collection of automatic watches, aptly named "automatic". They come in 40mm case diametre and are powered by the Sellita S220-1 with day-date functions. See the watch here and maybe purchased here:

http://www.jurawatches.co.uk/collections/mondaine-watches/products/mondaine-automatic-day-date-a132-30348-11sbb-watch-md-103


The final 3 watches on the list are all part of the giant conglomerate the swatchgroup. Being big has its advantages- price advantages. They are able to offer extremely good value and the following are just the tip of the iceberg.


Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto 38mm USD870

To be honest, this watch just might have the best bang-for-your-bux at the under $1000 category. It is the only watch powered by the ETA 2892-A2 movement, and this is a much more "premium" movement compared to the ETWA 2824-2. Nothing wrong with the 2824. Mind you, it's probably one of the most reliable, but you generally don't see the 2892 fitted to watches under $1000. Keep in mind that the same basic movement is used in Omega as Calibre 1120, and was also used as a base for the very first versions of Omega's co-axial movement, the Calibre 2500. This Hamilton, although only 38mm in diametre, it wears much bigger thanks to its all-dial-and-no-bezel design. It really really is a shame that Hamilton isn't sold in Australia. I'm sure they'll do extremely well here.


Tissot Heritage Visodate from 2012 USD650

The Visodate is inspired by 50s Tissot watches of the same name and it really is a great modern interpretation of a classic. For those who must have both the day and the date on display, this is a great watch. Go with the white dial though. I can't stand the day/date disc being in different colours to the dial. Just can't. I also really like the ye-olde-style Tissot logo on the dial. Powered by the ETA 2836-2 (Basically day-date version of the ETA2824) you can't go wrong and it's a gorgeous classic looking watch. I'd take this one if you can't get your hands on the Hamilton.


Swatch Automatic - $220 (at your local friendly Swatch retailer/boutique)

There are plenty of Swatch Irony automatics you can choose from, and seriously? If you want something Swiss, automatic, and in steel, and don't have a big watch budget, this truly is the way to go. And yes, you can service these and yes, a great watchmaker will be able to regulate the watch to within COSC accuracy (ie -4 to +6 seconds a day), and yes, really for around $220 Aussie. I'll be honest, there won't be much (if at all) of those old-dude-in-a-white-lab-coat involved in the making of this watch, but really... I don't think that's a factor at this price point...

Hopefully this list have introduced you to some watches that might now be up for consideration, and it's actually really not that pricey to get into a proper Swiss/German mechanical watch. My picks of the bunch would be the Hamilton for dress watch and the Archimede for the sports watch. C'mon. You can't have just the one watch. Seriously. It just won't work. Same as you can't have just the one knife.

Top 10 Swiss/German Watches Under $500

Having just done a top 10 watches under $1000 led me to think that there are a lot other nice watches that can be had for much less, yet are still Swiss/German made. I'm of course referring to quartz watches and although a lot of watch aficionados won't touch quartz with a ten foot pole... like a close friend, I'm also not a quartz Nazi "NO QUARTZ FOR YOU!!" so if there is a nice quartz watch I'd wear it.

Generally speaking a quartz watch can be had for a lot less than their mechanical counterpart, so I've placed a ceiling of $500. And if you would just like a nice watch, don't really care about what makes it tick, but you don't really want just another 'fashion' brand, you've come to the right place. May I present to you my top ten choice for quartz watches. (AUD500, USD500, EUR400, GBP320)

Again, as before, the criteria for this selection of watches are:

Swiss/German made
Quartz movement
Available in reasonable quantities
And - quite important - that these are all watches I would personally buy/wear.

I've also tried to avoid fashion branded watches and big companies, focusing on more interesting deisgns/executions or watches that simply looks much more expensive than they are. The idea is to show that there are some amazing quartz watches out there that may not be well know, but well deserving of your wrist time.

I'm not including the Seikos, Citizens, Casios, as they all make great quartz watches and can be had for very little cash outlay. The idea of this post is to offer perhaps little known alternatives, or ones that one may not think of straight off the bat, or perhaps even thought they were priced higher when they're not.

**I have not provided links to some of the pieces mentioned here because they don't sell direct from a website, but they can easily be found for sale**


Bruno Sohnle Atrium - $455 AUD

Never heard of this brand until it was recently brought to my attention by a friend who was looking for a watch for a friend who wanted to avoid the usual Seiko/Citizen route. Read the post here You could say this post was partly inspired by that scenario. Although little known to me, the brand comes from that great watchmaking cluster in Germany called "Glashutte" and has all the markings of the great watchmaking tradition. Except that they make quartz watches, which brings the prices down significantly, without sacrificing quality... You can get them here in Oz now from Define Watches


Defakto Detail - 280 Euro

The Defakto brand also made the previous list for watches under $1000. But if we're talking about one-handed watches it's not as much of a consequence if the watch is battery powered right? It's not like you'll miss the sweeping seconds hand. The Detail is one fine looking watch. Thin and elegant, I wouldn't mind at all if my one-handed watch is a quartz, since you can't really tell the difference, and.. well.. just look at it!! At that price you can't go wrong. And no, I don't make appointment times like 3:12. a five-minute indication is really good enough. (Unless you only have 2 minutes to catch the train. In which case... you should've left earlier.)

Defakto Detail


Mondaine - From $345 AUD

This has to be on the list. It's a classic, Swiss railway watch. This has the history, the design, the story, and a distinctively pretty face. And you don't have to pay through the nose for it (unless you're Apple. Ahem.) It also comes in a huge variety of options and sizes so you could possibly get one for each of the family members.

Check them out at Brisbane Vintage Watches or Sydney Vintage Watches

Botta Mondo - 348 Euro less VAT

Just cuz I like the design.
Plus some of their designs have won the coveted red dot design award, too, so they do know what they're doing. Plus they're just so cool! (Edit: I didn't realise this until the post was finished - our previous tarts editor had actually posted about this very watch! - Read her review here Looks like Tarters do have very similar tastes!)

Botta Design


Laco Dresden Pilot watch - 350 Euro less VAT

Along with Stowa, Laco was one of the original companies that made the pilot watch back in the 40s (The other three are A Lange & Sohne, IWC and Wempe). If you want a pilot watch with a proper pilot watch history, but your budget is limited, Laco offers their classic pilot watch with a quartz movement where really the only discernable difference is the movement. And why not? Just because you have a limited budget doesn't mean you have to miss out on a classic, right?

Laco Watches


Tissot PRC200 - $475

Yes I chose not to include Tissot in the under $1000 range, but I think under $500 is where they truly shine. The PRC200 is one of those amazing looking watches that could easily pass for watches costing many times more. A sports watch at heart, stick it on a strap and you dress it up immediately. The watch also has that classic style which means it won't go out of date, and as long as you keep up the battery changes, you should have no issues with it whatsoever. It's also a great value for money if you count the number of hands you get for your bucks. It's the only chronograph on the list here (If you don't count Swatch - but that's kinda in a different league.) Oh. One more thing- this watch only sneaks under $500 if you DON'T buy it in Australia. But then again, Tissot watches are on sale constantly here I'm sure you can pick one up new for under $500.


Victorinox Active Original - $325

Known for their army knives, they also make some really nice watches. For the price you get quality Swiss made watches, powered by a reliable swiss quartz movement, and in a variety of military inspired colours, you can't go wrong with one of these for your weekend and/or casual Friday look. I especially like the matching nato strap, which you can easily change yourself from a huge selection available from just about everywhere.

Victorinox


cK Bold - 200 pounds

Yes CK is a fashion brand. But Mr Klein licences his name so much that it's really lost all meaning. CK watches are made by the Swatchgroup, meaning you are getting the watchmaking expertise behind this powerhouse. Being part of swatchgroup also means that you have the peace of mind when it comes to certain levels of quality. Plus I love the minimalistic design that they employ for the CK range. Delete the name from the dial, or even, replace it with something else and I'm sure you'll get away with charging at least 3 times more. And that's what I love about the watch - it just oozes style.


Swatch Irony - In A Blue Mode - $115

Swatch was an easy choice, and their whole range comes under the $500 ceiling. Just one thing to keep in mind though. Due to the construction of their cases (one piece) if the movement stuffs up, you can't service it. I mean, they were designed to be throw-away watches. Their Irony range (or anything that's not made from plastic) looks the part and provided you look after it, a battery change every 2 years or so should be all you need for years and years of stylish Swiss timing. I have an Irony chrono that's hit double digits and still going strong (touch wood). I have chosen the "In A Blue Mode" as I really like the style, sold bracelet design and looks fantastic!

Swatch In A Blue Mode


Fortis Flipper/Fortis Colour - 240 Euro

This is the return of the Fortis Flipper from the 70s. It's essentially a watch module that you can fit into different coloured "cases" which are integrated with the strap. You can choose from a set of three different colours for 240 Euro or a case of ten different colours for more $$$. This is a quartz watch and I'm assuming it's Swiss (it doesn't say but the rest of the Fortis range are) and it's a very inexpensive way into a Fortis, and a fun watch at that. The watch 'case' is made from silicon, and it's just a case of 'popping' the 'watch' in and out to change colours. The dedicated website is coming soon, but it seems you can get them already from Chrono24

Fortis Color

Top 10 Swiss/German Mechanical watches under $1000

**Updated 2013 List HERE**


I've had some people asking me more details about watches under $1k ever since the brief mention in the Sydney watch collector interview here. I thought it would be a great idea to do a top ten list of the 10 best new watches (in my opinion, the ones that I would happily wear and recommend to others) under $1k. As this blog has gained quite the international following, the $1k limit is set in USD, which is pretty close to AUD anyway. (for those in other major regions, this would be roughly around EUR800, 650GBP, 1000CHF, and 80,000Yen)

It was mentioned before that there are a lot of really nice watches to be had brand new under $1k, but of course, at this price, you'll need to forgo the "big brands" and start looking at some brands you may or may not have heard of. But if you cared about that you wouldn't be reading this blog would you? You'd just go and get that Rolex Datejust/Sub and be done. For the vast majority of you, who wear watches because you like them, let's go to the top ten list.

Of course, this list is by no means exhaustive and the watches are listed in no particular order... (Ok, in order of the watches that comes to mind) If there are enough watches left over at the end of the list I'll do a second top ten list...

Now the criteria for the watches that can appear on this list are the following:
1. Swiss/German made
2. houses a Swiss/German mechanical movement (with 1 exception)
3. More or less readily available (ie, not limited to 10 pieces worldwide)

This is also a good gift guide for that special someone (or yourself) for the upcoming holiday seasons. I would also very happily wear any of the following watches. In fact, a few of them are on my shopping list. Many brands also sell direct through their website (and I've included links where applicable). And now, without further ado, the top 10 watches under $1000, in no particular order...


Steinhart Ocean 2 - 412 euro

I have a soft spot for Steinhart and have owned/still own several of their models. It is simply amazing what they pump out for the price they charge. Amazing bang-for-your-bucks. Granted there are conspiracies regarding where exactly do they get their parts (as the requirement for the "Swiss Made" stamp is relatively low - won't get into that now) but then again, we could also argue where exactly some of the bigger brands get their parts... But all that is not important in the global village of today.

Another criticism of Steinhart is their derivative/homage styling. That has changed in recent years as they put more effort into their own styles and designs. They won't appeal to everyone but again, that is the case with pretty much every brand out there.

A lot of Steinhart models falls under the $1000 limit, but I have chosen the Ocean 2 as for me, it's one of their more successful inhouse designs. brilliant symmetrical dial, powered by the workhorse ETA 2824 movement (which you'll find fitted to watches 10 times the price), case quality is excellent for the price, and in my opinion, very good customer service (as long as you don't expect immediate answers- they get there in the end). This piece is high on my shopping list. You can get them direct from their website.

Steinhart


Archimede Pilot 42 Automatic - 375 euro

One thing Archimede is famous for is the watch case. Their cases are made by Ickler, (who also produces watches under several other brands) and you know when I said case is good for Steinhart at the price? Well, Archimede watch cases takes it to an entirely different plane. I'd rate them alongside many of the bigger 'prestige' brands. Which makes their pilot watch, a pinch at 375 euros, steal of the century. That is, of course, if you like pilot watches. They do have other models in the range, but I think their Pilot line is the most successful one. And everyone needs a Pilot watch in their collection, right? It's a classic that'll never go out of style. If you can afford it, for an extra 20 euro, you get a sterile dial ie, no branding, and that gives it a very clean look. And like a decent German car, you can also spend lots optioning up the watch with such luxury items as curved sapphire, custom engraving, bracelet etc. This is also available direct from their website

Archimede


Prometheus Signatura - 389 euro

I only found them quite recently. But what they've made really blew my mind! I don't care much for any of their other models, but the Signatura is done so right where many others (more expensive) have done wrong. You'd think it quite easy to produce an elegant dress watch, but that doesn't seem to be the case. Prometheus managed it for a paltry 389 Euro! From the images the case quality seem to be on par with Steinhart, but for the money you get sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, sapphire display back with custom rotor, enamel dial(!!!), and Sellita SW200 (same as ETA 2824). The dial is simply gorgeous and elegant, and to top it off, symmetrical (yes I have a thing about symmetry on dials and good proportions in general). I really like the black dial as the enamel gives it a certain depth and sheen but you can't go wrong with the white dial/blued hands version either. A definite on my shopping list, direct from their website:

Prometheus


SevenFriday - 897 CHF

So far we've looked at very traditional looking watches. But what if you wanted something a bit "out there"? Well this one is for you. Name's a bit.. well.. but at least it's easy to remember and easily pronounceable. It doesn't look like anything else on the market around the same price range. (You'd need to be sniffing around the 5 figure mark at the very least). This is definitely not for everyone, but I really love it. So much so I'm willing to overlook the miyota movement (not that there's anything wrong with them) and include it on this list.

you can even print the watch out to try on your wrist!


Available direct from their website or from Jura watches for 695 pounds, less VAT if overseas

SevenFriday
Jura Watches


Defakto Akkord from 420 euro

Their watches are also made by Ickler, so you know the case quality is top notch. But the Defakto brand itself employs very minimalistic, bauhaus inspired designs. Perfect for those who are sick of paragraphs printed on dials. The Akkord is more traditional with 2 hands, (but you can also get 1-handed watches for that extra minimalistic look) and powered by ETA 2824. Available direct from their website. Like their sister brand, Archimede, you can also choose your customisation for the watch for extra dough.

Defakto


Halios 1000m "The Puck" $780 USD

Do you like to go deep? Or maybe you just like the idea that you could? Or perhaps you just like a massive chunky watch on your wrist? Then this is for you. With a diametre of 47mm and a height of 14.5mm, it is certain like wearing a hockey puck on your wrist. But it's all about the wrist presence isn't it? Big enough to also use as a weapon. The amount of stainless steel and sapphire crystal (domed and 4mm thick) makes this watch a bargain at $780 USD, direct from their website

Halios Watches


Stowa Marine Auto - EUR680 less VAT

Stowa is a great brand with a great history. (Stowa is one of the original makers of the pilot watch in the 40s) They continue today under Jorge Schauer, and continue to bring out great watches. The Marine is aother classically styled watch (like the Pilot) and Stowa's Marine watch comes with heated blue hands and a sterling silver dial. It's also powered by ETA 2824. I'd say their case quality matches that of Ickler's and you also get a variety of options to customise your watch.

Stowa Watches


Now we come to the 'bigger' brands. Well, the next two can probably still be considered quite niche, but by bigger brands I mean that they do spend money on advertising and marketing so you will need to factor that into the price... However if you searched hard enough on the interwebs I'm sure you can find some good deals.

Glycine Combat 6 manual 590 pounds less VAT

For a 'bigger' brand they're still fairly good value for money. But you are looking at the sort of case quality equal to that of Steinhart. But if you prefer a manual wind movement (or you just don't want something powered by 2824 or equivalent) this would be the one for you. It's powered by ETA 2801, which, well... it's really just the 2824 minus the rotor... um... You do get a choice of different dials for this model, ranging from sporty to dressy. My pick would be the blue dial. Love it. Jura watches in the UK has them in stock on strap for 590 pounds, less VAT if overseas.

Glycine Watches
Jura Watches


Sinn 556 - 630 euro on strap

There is something about Sinn. Unfortunately name perhaps in English, but there is a certain something that just feels special about their watches. With a Sinn, at under $1000 will get you into one of the very basic entry level watches in their range, but that doesn't mean it's any less of a watch. Case quality is again top notch, and although it is powered by ETA 2824, you do also get the following:

Shock resistant as per DIN 8308
Anti-magnetic as per DIN 8309
Sapphire crystal front and back, anti-reflective on both sides on the front, anti-reflective one side on the back
200m water resistant
low pressure resistant

It's also a smaller watch compared to all the others on this list at 38.5, so if you prefer something not so ostentatious but classy and high quality at the same time, you won't sin with a Sinn. Ahem.

Sinn watches


Hamilton Jazzmaster Slim

Last but not least is one watch from one of the majors. Hamilton is part of the Swatchgroup behemoth, but being part of something so big has its perks. Access to in-family ETA movements at most likely mate's rates, you get surprisingly good value and build quality from their watches. Especially the Jazzmaster Slim, which caught my attention not long ago. A really elegant dress watch, in 2 sizes (I'd go for the 40mm) powered by ETA 2892! The 2892 is much more expensive than the 2824, plus it is also a thinner movement, and by most accounts, a more 'premium' movement than 2824. And yet, look at what you get for the price! and this is retail. You can easily find them cheaper than that online. For my money, I'd get a Hamilton over a Tissot. Even if Hamilton is originally an US watch brand, they're all Swiss now, and I just think their watches are much, much better than Tissot. (Which is also why I haven't included any Tissot watches in this list. I do like Tissot, but... hmmm... bang-for-your-buck? Hammy wins hands down.)

Hamilton watches

43mm - 625EUR 795USD, 950CHF
40mm - 525EUR, 695USD, 795CHF

Hopefully this list has opened your eyes to some amazing new watches available out there for not a lot of money. And in most cases, if you buy right, you'll get most of your money back when it comes time to part ways. Most of the smaller brands (Steinhart, Archimede, etc) will amaze you with their resale value since they are sought after and not all that many in circulation.

Hands-on with the Sothis Horus chronograph

Wolfgang Steinkrüger, the creative mind behind the watch brand Sothis, died recently, his legacy a series of highly recognisable and playful watches with an Egyptian influence. Although the brand started under another name, its founders Wolfgang and Karina Steinkrüger changed its name to Sothis, the Egyptian name for the star Sirius, in 1999. 

In this post we look at one of his most well-known models, the Horus.

Horus was the ancient Egyptians’ patron god, usually depicted as a falcon-headed man wearing a red and white crown. The Horus chronograph was produced in three versions – with an ivory/ silver dial, a matte black/ anthracite, and silver guilloche, each in a limited (numbered) edition of 200.

This is one of the ivory/ silvered dialled iterations (featured on the cover of Wristwatch Annual 2007). The black/ anthracite and silver guilloche versions are slightly more dressy. 

With the time indicated via a single 24-hour hand tipped at the ends with a sun and a star, the Horus has a quirky way of indicating both time and day/ night. The hand indicates the time and the star or sun indicates night or day. Time is shown in 5 minute increments and it takes 24 hours to do one complete revolution.

In addition, the star on the dial rotates with the running seconds.

The crown has a distinctive engraved hieroglyph for ‘Sothis’. 

Unlike the hours and minutes display, the chronograph is more traditional.

As you can tell from the specs below, this is a watch with a decent amount of height to it. With the bracelet, it weighs 175g. It’s not uncomfortable, but with the thickness, you can definitely feel every bit of its 44mm size.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Reference: 026001-W 

Movement: Automatic Valjous ETA 7750, customised by SOTHIS, engraved gold plated rotor 

Functions: hours, minutes, date, chronograph

Case: Stainless steel L 316 

Crystal : sapphire on both sides 

Water resistance : 5 atm 

Size: 44 mm.

Height : 13.9 mm 

Dial: matte black/ anthracite, ivory/ silver or silver guilloche 

Strap: leather strap with deployment buckle, stainless steel bracelet or set 

Limited edition: 200 pieces 

With its distinctive design, this watch may not be to everyone’s taste, but if you’re looking for a fun quirky chronograph from a brand that likes to do something different design-wise, it is still possible to find some of these, even in Australia, where they have an AD. 

 

The future of Sothis is still uncertain; Karina issued a press release about it that you can view here. 

[AP]

Hands-on with the Botta MONDO dual time zone

Sometimes, you end up with a watch unexpectedly. The Black Edition Botta Mondo Dual Timer is one of those watches. The reasons why it turned out to be unsuitable for its original owner (and thus how I became its new owner) were a classic example of how a watch can appear to be what you wish for in pictures, but turn out to be something quite different ‘in the metal’.

With a design ethos claimed by Botta to be rooted in the simple lines of 1970s Braun watches, this is a fairly inexpensive good looking dual time zone watch. The typeface, clarity and minimalist approach is very appealing in photos.

Although it is not anything new, one of th aethetically pleasing things about this watch is its use of angles. It is not just about the way the 24-hour second time zone outer ring slopes quite sharply downwards towards the time indices, but also about the use of contrasting grey and black that gives it a stylish edge. You’ll also notice the artificial ‘horizon’ that divides the 24-hour ring into two differently coloured halves, one for day and one for night. Exactitude isn’t the key point here with this feature, but it is useful at a glance if you want to quickly ascertain whether it’s day or night in your second time zone.

At a comfortable 40mm, this is a slim (7.5mm) stainless steel watch that weighs only 43g. Inside is a Ronda 515.24H quartz movement. The strap is a vegetable tanned leather strap (available in three lengths), but there are bracelet and rubber strap options available as well for the Black Edition. The regular edition only offers leather and bracelet options.

As an inexpensive dual timer, if you’re not bothered by quartz, this is a pretty good option from an aesthetic point of view, so what were problems that came up for its original owner which lead to its transfer to me?

The first issue was that of size. Although it’s a decent 40mm, it’s a slim watch, and not for those who are used to wearing something with more heft.

The second problem was that of clarity.

One of the very things that appealed about this watch turned out to be one of its shortcomings for the original owner. The slim markers and hands were not a problem, but the second time zone marker, with a very discreet orange tip, is not as legible at first glance as it could be. If you wish to be able to rapidly identify your second time zone, this is not the watch for you. It’s not illegible, but it’s not recommended for people who need something bold and clear, and the photos on the Botta website don’t really give a good ‘working’ level indication of this hand’s legibility.

I like this watch and am happy to be its new owner but even for me, there is one small problem – the strap. It creases and marks easily, and doesn’t feel very sturdy.

The Mondo is priced from € 348.00 and you can order it direct from Botta here.

Oh and if you visit their website you'll notie that Botta have a single-handed watch called the Uno which is remarkably similar to MeisterSinger ... as is their wall clock.

[AP]

More dragons : Grieb & Benzinger

In the latest chapter in the relentless pursuit of the Chinese market, especially in the upcoming year of the dragon, Grieb & Benzinger have released their version of watches-with-dragons.

Fortunately, they have restricted themselves to four models, each available in a limited edition of eight, with the number x/8 hand skeletonised into the gear train bridge.

If I am so cynical about dragon themed watches, why am I blogging about them? Well it’s because Benzinger/ Grieb & Benzinger are interesting and slightly under the radar. They do some quite lovely classically Breguet-style watches, they’re known for their hand skeletonised (and hand guillochéd) watches, plus they actually have an authorised dealer in Australia, through whom I have had the pleasure of once seeing them in the flesh.

Basically, if Benzinger are doing a skeletonised dragon, then I’ll take a look.

Grieb & Benzinger’s draconic offerings are split into two skeletonised models, and two mother-of-pearl ones. 

The mother-of-pearl dialled models are the ‘White Dragon’ and ‘Grey Dragon’. The use of mother-of-pearl dials alludes to the pearl that the male dragon carries underneath his chin, symbolising wisdom, purity and order. The white model is available in white gold with 77 diamonds or in white gold with a guilloché bezel. The grey is available in rose gold with 77 diamonds or in rose gold with a guilloché bezel. 

Of their dragon collection, the mother-of-pearl ones are probably the two that appeal the least to me, since they seem more a case of simply putting a dragon on a watch. The two skeletonised models, however, let the brand’s skeletonising skills shine and, to my mind, make more sense within the broader context of the brand's DNA.

The ‘Black Dragon’ features a ‘hovering’ dragon over a skeletonised sterling silver dial, beneath which can be seen a blackened, hand-skeletonised movement. It is available in rose gold with 77 diamonds or in rose gold with a guilloché bezel.

The ‘Blue Dragon’ is the full-on-Benzinger-treatment masterpiece of the collection. The dragon is fully skeletonised out of the movement itself, giving it a far more three-dimensional and organic feel. As well as skeletonisation, the Blue Dragon also features the use of guilloché and engraving. Why blue? G&B say that this is a nod to the time when a lot of blue base plates were supplied by Switzerland through Bovet (which has arguably the richest history of any watch brand with China) and under Emperors Jia Qing (reigned 1795-1820) and Dao Guang (reigned 1821-1850). The Blue Dragon is available in white gold with 124 baguette-cut diamonds or in white gold with a guilloché bezel.

Of the collection, and this is a very personal view, I wonder whether the skeletonised models will be the ones with the greatest staying power. They are more in tune with the brand’s other collections and the dragons are more aesthetically integrated into the watch, which means that they don’t scream ‘token dragon watch’.

How much for these rather limited editions? Prices from 32,500 Euros.

[AP]