Profile: Anita Porchet

Anita Porchet - Portrait from thenakedwatchmaker.com

What do you think of when the word ‘enamel’ is mentioned? 

I think of shiny smooth white dials, a kiln firing at 800 odd degrees Celsius and... that's about it really. Not much else comes to mind. Nevermind the fact that the art of enamelling is an art form that one may not master even after 20 or even 30 years of experience. There is nothing quite like a clean, crisp, white enamel dial, and Seiko’s use of it is a testament to the elegance in simplicity. But the art of enamelling, that’s a whole ‘nother thing. What? How hard can it be to do a white enamel dial? You've come to the right place. 

Many years ago when I was lucky enough to have visited Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre, during a tour of their in-house enamel workshop, founded by Miklos Merczel, we were told that enamelling was a craft in danger of being lost to time – it wasn’t being taught in schools, and apprentices weren’t willing to invest decades into honing the craft. 

Things have changed dramatically since then. Due to the increased demand of enamelled timepieces over the past decade it is again being professionally taught, and new life given to a once dying craft. However, this may be a blessing and a curse. It is no longer as rare as it used to be, and although the price of admission isn’t exactly low, those with the means are able to acquire a piece of miniature art relatively easily. It almost became industrialised insomuch as a craft can be; a product, rather than art. There are views that the Swiss watch industry should keep some things ‘sacred’ and not mass produce everything because of demand. 

Hermes Cape Cod

So what exactly does it take to become a master enameller? Like watchmaking it is a highly skilled craft and takes years, if not decades, to be anywhere near good enough for your craft to be recognised and perhaps commissioned by brands (watch or otherwise) or an in-house artisan. 

Currently, one of the most respected and revered is the independent master enameller, Anita Porchet, although if you ask her, she would not call herself that. In fact, after two decades of producing amazing pieces for the likes of Patek Philippe (who were one of the first to recognise her talent), Vacheron Constantin, Piaget, Hermes, and other prestigious Maisons, she still feels that she has not mastered the art. And therein lies the problem of the industry. 

Piaget The Rose - Featuring Cloisonné technique

As with many crafts, increasing popularity entices more people to study it, with some not hesitating to label themselves “enameller” with mere months of experience. For sure there are some talented artists who may acquire the skills of miniaturising art, but enamel isn’t like painting. It requires time to be familiar with the raw materials, to know when the grain is fine enough, and to time each firing in the kiln to perfection, as a few seconds too long in the kiln can ruin months’ worth of work. Impurities in the glass can cause bubbles or discolouration. There are no shortcuts. 

Working on Piaget - The Rose

Anita Porchet was born in La Chaux-de-Fonds and learnt the basics of enamel work through her godfather, before studying fine arts. It would turn out to be portentous when she won a Patek Philippe prize shortly after graduating. Her significance is as such that in 2015 the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie presented her with the “Hommage au Talent” prize. It is important to note that as well as her own artistic work and her apprentices, she has also taught, including at the School of Applied Arts (EAA) in La Chaux-de-Fonds.

Various enamel colours

She started out solo in the 1980s, establishing her home studio in the countryside somewhere between Geneva and Lausanne in 1993. She now has three apprentices. During her long career she has experienced the dramatic rise in demand of the craft last two decades; from almost no takers to brands spending millions creating enamel timepieces. Back in the mid-1990s, Patek Philippe requested from Anita Porchet her first enamel dials. Then other Maisons followed. She became more skilled and more proficient, and over the years created an unique signature, as well as mastering a wide range of disciplines:

Champlevé - which consists of cutting away troughs or cells in a metal plate and filling the depressions with enamel. The raised metal lines between the cutout areas form the design outline.

Paillonné (Spangling) - which involves applying microscopic specks of gold leaf to the enamel

Cloisonné - a technique that allows the motif to be outlined with a gold wire finer than a hair’s breadth

Grisaille - a technique by which an image is executed entirely in shades of grey and usually severely modelled to create the illusion of sculpture

Limoges - white painting - using enamel very finely ground with heavy vegetable oils, which gives a very thick white paste. 

Dawn on the lake by Anita Porchet for Patek Philippe's175th anniversary

A Patek Philippe dome clock with cloisonne and paillone enamel

Some of her more challenging work included creating the ceiling of the Opéra Garnier on the Métiers d’Art Chagall & l’Opéra de Paris “Tribute to Famous Composers” for Vacheron Constantin, the reproduction of Judith by Gustav Klimt on a Patek Philippe pocketwatch involved a combination of techniques.  

Opéra Garnier on the Métiers d’Art Chagall & l’Opéra de Paris “Tribute to Famous Composers” for Vacheron Constantin

Porchet has achieved her consistent level of quality only after years of experimentation, and it can take up to a year to finish a complex dial. Each firing in the kiln can last between 30 to 90 seconds. Even if the timing is perfect, it is no guarantee the step WILL be successful. “Cracks on enamel do not all happen for the same reasons,” Porchet explains to Robb Report. “The origin of the cracks can come from the quality of the colour, from the thickness, or from the metal. I try to find a solution for each case, but it’s not always possible.” It is this skill, accumulation of experience over time, that makes Anita Porchet a master enameller, a title which I’m sure she will refuse.

*I mentioned the significance of Patek Philippe to the career of Anita Porchet. One of the first things that those new to Patek (and who are not native French speakers) learn is that the ‘émail’ on some dials does not refer to electronic mail but that it is the French word for enamel. Thus, an enameller is an ‘émailler’. 

Top 10 Best Swiss/German Square Watches

Top 10 Swiss/German Square watches and other honourable mentions.


When is a square not a square? When lazy hacks who couldn't even be bothered doing a google image search and decides that tonneau shape, rectangle and cushion are close enough. Try explaining that one to your kindergarten teacher and see where that gets you. You're NOT going to fit a rectangular peg into a square hole no matter how hard you push. So here we go. We at the Tarts spend a little more time on google, and find you the top 10 best square watches that are ALSO powered by a mechanical movement, and are either Swiss/German made. (Yes again I know the Japanese make some really nice square mechanical/quartz watches too but you know, that would be a very broad range and simply make this list a little too easy and a little too meaningless.)

Plus, as an added bonus, we are covering a broad range of price points and styles (and yet still remaining perfectly square) so there is a watch for every budget/style. In fact, we are feeling so generous that we are giving you a list of 15 (more like 20 but we'll get to that) because some watches may be a little difficult to come by and others maybe no longer be available brand new from an authorised retailer. Plus some we included cuz we like 'em. Here we go. In no particular order, it's hip to be square!! (Yes we know it's an overused cliche phrase…)


Cartier Santos Dumont 35mm

Santos Dumont, an aviator, was a good friend of Louis Cartier and in 1904, Santos Dumont was presented with what seems to be the 'first' wristwatch made especially for men, as it was quite difficult to keep track of time using a pocket watch when both hands are needed to fly a plane. Say what you will about Cartier being a "jeweller" but they have a long history in wristwatches. The Cartier Santos Dumont is one of my favourites powered by a Piaget manual wind movement. Thin, elegant, unpretentious and unmistakably Cartier.

Bell and Ross BR01-92 46mm

Also inspired by aviation (flight deck instrument, in this case) this is quite possibly the antithesis of the Santos Dumont (in terms of square aviation themed watches). Loud, big and in your face, it literally feels like you've strapped on the actual instrument to your wrist. And that's what I love about it. The basic BR01-92 is the pick. Clean and highly legible, it wears really well (believe it or not) due to the relative thinness of the watch.


Franck Muller Master Square 36.5mm

If you must have a Franck Muller and you don't want to be seen as a tonneau-shaped sheep, this is the watch for you. The watch features the classic Franck Muller arabic numerals (or if you prefer a Cartier on steroids look, it also comes with Roman numerals). The whole case is actually curved in profile to hug your wrist, meaning again, the watch is very comfortable and wears extremely well.

TAG Heuer Monaco 38mm

Originally introduced by Heuer in 1969 in honour of the Monaco Grand Prix, it was made famous by Steve McQueen when he wore it for the film Le Mans in 1971. So famous in fact TAG Heuer is still using Steve in advertisement - I mean, wouldn't you? Steve McQueen is, like, the epitome of cool. And if a cool guy like Steve wears the Monaco, that means I'll be able to bask in the reflected glory when I wear the same watch. All jokes aside, it is a classic and the watch has not changed since it first appeared (not many watches can claim that).

Nomos Tetra 30mm

At 30mm this is getting close to a midsize. Yes, square watches do wear bigger, but this is more for those who appreciates a time when wristwatches weren't so bold. Even so, the Tetra is very modern in its simplicity. Bauhaus style with a dial that's uncluttered, powered by an inhouse movement, you could do so much worse than this. And by wearing this watch you're quietly confident and you obviously do not need to over compensate for anything. It's also the only watch on this list that is made in Germany. Read into this anyway you like.

These next two seems to have been inspired by the same watch and the same year! However they vary quite differently in price point and execution.

Vacheron Constantin Historiques 1968 35mm
Longines Heritage 1968 33mm

The Vacheron is an ultra thin automatic watch powered by the thinnest full rotor automatic movements. The VC Calibre 1120 was designed by Jaeger-LeCoultre for use exclusively by Vacheron, Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe. The movement is a mere 2.45mm thin, therefore the whole case can also be made extremely thin (at a svelte 5.4mm). The Longines on the other hand has no such luxury when it comes to thin movements. That's not to say it doesn't have a relatively thin movement to borrow from sister company ETA. The 2892-A2 is one of the thinnest automatic movements around, plus you get a date function! Other than that it's a touch smaller compared to the Vacheron. Both are elegant and resolutely square and you can't go wrong with either if you happen to be born in 1968, or if 1968 happens to be a significant year for you.


Omega Deville X2 35mm discontinued

This is a strange one and one that didn't do too well when it was available new. For some reason I like it and one of the reasons why most people hate it is the reason I like it - the mixed use of Roman and Arabic numerals. Case is based on a historical Omega and there were a few different variations of dials/complications that can be had with this model. It is an through-and-through Omega so the quality is there. And because of its unpopularity you could pick up one on the cheap somewhere...

Louis Erard La Carree Chrono 39mm

Louis Erard is known for their extremely good value for money, given they're Swiss made, and runs reliable workhorse movements. I could not believe my eyes that the chrono here can be had for around 600 Euro! A well made, Swiss automatic chronograph (Valjoux 7750 from the looks of it) for this sort of price is a bargain! Now I have a feeling that this one might also be discontinued but it's easy enough to find online. Hmmm I think I may have just sold myself on this...


Hamilton Jazz Master Square Chrono 40mm (38.5mm for time only)

This one seems like it's also discontinued, but I'm sure these models can still be found if one uses Google. Hamilton, like Louis Erard makes extremely great value watches. One advantage that Hamilton has over Louis Erard is that it's part of the enormous Swatch Group, meaning they have access to movements galore and much better economies of scale, hence their extremely competitive price point for the watches you get. I'm a big fan of some of the models out of the Jazz Master range and I didn't realise they had a square version till I was googling for watches for this post.

Because I'm feeling generous here are five more square watches. (I realise that some of the watch on this list are discontinued, meaning for those who prefer the security of buying new from authorised retailers will have less choices overall.)

Piaget Altiplano Square 33mm

This piece is discontinued, but again, thanks to the internet, I'm sure one can be tracked down without too much hassle. Like most ultra thin Piaget watches, this one is elegant, classy and dressy, and has a certain je ne sais quoi about it. Piaget makes beautiful watches and as they are proper watchmakers, with gorgeous inhouse movements to boot. If you ever need a watch for a black tie event, but something that won't clash with others at the shindig, this would be it. I did mention that it was thin right? At 4.5mm, this is one of the thinnest mechanical watches around.


Hermes Carre H 36.5mm

Don't listen to anyone who tells you Hermes are only good for bags. They have a long history in watchmaking, although they may not have had invested much in their watch division at times. This piece is a limited edition, and completely sold out. This piece was designed by French architect Marc Berthier, and limited to just 173 pieces. The watch is powered by the Girard-Perregaux caliber GP3200 movement. I'm sure if you do manage to find one, you'll have to pay above the retail price of around US$15k


The Ralph Lauren Slim Classique 27.5mm

I'm going to quote a sales blurb: "The Ralph Lauren Slim Classique collection represents modern watchmaking with classical, slender proportions that recall a bygone era." Right. at 27.5mm, I'm going to call this a lady's watch. As much as I like my Ralph Lauren, I really cannot see the value in the watches though, Yes I know they're well made and this one probably runs a Piaget movement, but...


Fortis Square Automatic Day-Date/Chronograph 39mm

I'm kicking myself for not buying this when I had the chance. (yes, had the chance but not the money!) It's a chunky watch, but it's anything but imposing. It looks great, has substance and it's not expensive. I prefer the day-date version over the chronograph because of the cleaner dial and I think the styling worked better in the Louis Erard compared to the Fortis, given it's the same movement. at 39mm, it's a good, solid size.


Ventura V-Matic Ego Square 37mm

Here's one from the recent past. I've always appreciated Ventura's styling. Very digital sci-fi and spacey, but running very traditional mechanical movements. The V-Matic Ego Squre is from the early 2000s, and in time it'll probably look quite retro-futuristic.

So all up you have almost 20 properly square watches (due to the time only/chronograph variations in the same style case, or different dial layouts). They do wear quite differently to round, cushion shaped or even rectangular watches, so like always, try it on first if you can!


Oh... and if you have kids who are into Thomas the Tank Engine....

Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève 2011 : results

The 2011 Aiguille d'Or Grand Prix has just been awarded to De Bethune for its DB28 at the 11th Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix (GPHG) on Saturday 19 November.

The Grand Prix was founded in 2001 by the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix Foundation and the Banque Privée Edmond de Rothschild to celebrate and recognise horological excellence.

You can read about the nominated watches, which included Australia's own Eva Leube, here.

This year’s winners are :

“Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix: De Bethune DB28

“Petite Aiguille” Prize (for models under CHF 5’000): Montblanc, Star Worldtime GMT Automatic

Best Ladies’ Watch Prize: Boucheron, Crazy Jungle Hathi

Best Men’s Watch Prize: Hermès, Arceau Le Temps Suspendu

Best Design Watch Prize: Urwerk, UR-110

Best Jewellery and Artistic Crafts Watch Prize: Van Cleef & Arpels, Lady Arpels Polar Landscape

Best Complicated Watch Prize: Zenith, Academy Christophe Colomb Equation of Time

Best Sports Watch Prize: TAG Heuer, Mikrotimer Flying 1000 Chronograph

Best Watchmaker Prize: Vianney Halter

Special Jury Prize: Patek Philippe Museum

The public prize, awarded by visitors to the exhibition and voters on the World Tempus and GPHG, went to Audemars Piguet’s Millenary 4101.

All the prize winners and nominated watches will be exhibited at the Salon International de l’Horlogerie de Prestige Belles Montres at the Carrousel du Louvre from November 24th to 27th.

Available in four iterations (reference DB28TIS8 with the titanium case, black dial, and titanium floating lugs is 87'000 CHF), more information about this year’s winner can be found here.

[AP]

Hands-on with Hermes' Le Temps Suspendu

I had the pleasure, during a recent trip overseas, of getting hands-on with the Hermes 'Le Temps Suspendu', which simply means ‘time suspended’. The watch is based on the Hermes Arceau case and was a popular feature at BASEL 2011.

The watch houses a mechanism made by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, probably best known for his involvement in the engine for the MB&F timepieces Horological Machine No.2 (HM2) + Horological Machine No.3 (HM3), the Harry Winston Opus9.

So, what sort of complication is 'suspending time'? The philosophy is based on the idea that with the watch, you can simply activate the function, that is, 'suspend time'... and you will be in that moment for as long as you want. To achieve this, you simply press down on a button that is located on the left side of the watch case. And when held down, the hour and minute hands assume a “11-1” position. In the meantime, the watch is still ticking underneath...keeping precise time. And if you press the button again, the watch reverts back to telling the time... and it catches up from when it was pressed, meaning time is kept. And for as long as there's reserve power, the watch will catch up when released from suspension. Watches of this calibre are sold with a automatic watch winder too, which I thought was a great touch!

Hermès "suspends time" with 'Le Temps Suspendu'

Hermès is not normally my first (or even tenth) port of horological call, but the announcement at Baselworld 2011 of the Arceau Le Temps Suspendu grabbed my attention for its whimsy.

With Les Temps Suspendu, Hermès’ Arceau watch, created in 1978 by Henri d’Origny, has been horologically upgraded by the brand’s partnership with Agenhor and its founder Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, most well known for the MB&F HM2, Harry Winston’s Opus 9, Van Cleef & Arpels Pont-des-Amoureux, and the True North for Arnold & Son.  

The name means “suspended time”, and this retrograde complication is demonstrated through the pressing of a pusher at 9-o’clock which ‘suspends time’ by bringing both the hour and minute hands to the recessed area at 12 o’clock, hiding the retrograde date hand in the process. 

Despite appearances however, the movement continues running and keeping time. If you press the pusher again, the hands will then fly back to the correct position as at that moment. Interestingly, the hands may stay suspended for hours, days or even weeks, but so long as the movement is wound, the watch keeps on ticking.