IWC - Pilot's Chronograph AMG Edition

 pilot

/ˈpʌɪlət/

Noun

• A person who operates the flying controls of an aircraft.

By this definition, one would think that a pilot’s watch means a watch for the person who operates or flies an aircraft. Of course, by the same definition, a diver’s watch should be for someone who “dives”. 

However, as we all know, watches designed for a specific purpose or style no longer applies to the wearer these days. Therefore, one could say that the design philosophy could also be freed up, and no longer bound by the name of the watch. What am I getting at you ask?

Let’s have a look at the just-launched IWC Pilot’s Chronograph AMG edition. It is the first IWC Pilot’s Watch to be produced in titanium, and features racing-inspired styling cues such as the carbon fibre dial, the carbon fibre look strap and of course, the lightweight titanium case. This is not the first AMG collaboration. The very first IWC AMG watch was based on the Ingenieur (German for engineer) and it was also in titanium, with an in-house time only version as well as ETA 7750 based chronograph.

If you ask me, the Ingenieur collection is a much better fit to AMG - because their whole rasion d’être is about improving the engine and performance of Mercedes-Benz cars, and each engine is built by a single engineer whose signature is on the engine cover. So why is the latest collab a Pilot’s Watch?

Personally I think it was a mistake to have moved the design of the Ingenieur away from the Genta-esque to the vintage '50s look, especially given how popular the “non-round sports watch with integrated bracelet” theme is these days. It’s almost as if they had no choice but to stick it on the Pilot’s Watch as 1) it’s a best selling range for IWC and 2) they won’t sell any if they based it on the current Ingenieur (Yes I know they did one for the 50th anniversary of AMG back in 2017) plus 3) the vintage style isn’t a great fit for AMG with its modern, high performance values (and I stand by my opinion on this).

To be honest AMG feels like they’ve sold out and gone a little too commercial as well. Don’t get me wrong, an AMG C63 is still at the top of my car shopping list and the AMG GT is firmly in the “grail” segment but like IWC they’re sticking pretty much the same engine in everything from A class to X class (yes I know it doesn’t exist but I’m sure they would’ve if they could’ve). So in that sense there is some sort of commonality in rationale.

Back to the watch - it’s a conservative and safe approach. It’s a known quantity, has broad appeal, and almost guaranteed success. But is it appropriate? I’ll direct that question to those who wear a diver’s watch matched to a suit, where the only action the watch sees is the water from the running tap…

(Before someone points out to me that in French, a “pilote” also means driver, as in a car/racing car driver, and therefore in this sense the pilot watch works. You try explaining that to the general public, and why a German-speaking brand would use the French definition, and also Zenith tried this with their pilots range before with a forced motorbike connection. It really doesn’t work…) 

So IWC, if you’re reading this, can you please bring back the Genta style Ingenieur?

On The Wrist: Stowa Flieger Black Forest Edition 1 Australian Review

We love black watches

Oh, yes we do

We love black watches

And we will be true.

When the watch isn't black

We're blue.

Oh, Black watches we love you. **

End flash back to my high school musical days. (Yes I was in high school musicals. What? I enjoy the performance arts...chicks dig guys who can bust a move and hold a tune... Really...)

But there is SOMETHING about an all-black stealthy sinister looking matte black anything isn't there? Matte black cars turns heads. Matte black sneakers are always on trend. Coco Chanel also said something about the colour black. Black will always be the new black no matter what the advertising execs tries to tell you. 

Especially a black watch named after one of the most delicious black-themed desserts- the Black Forest cake. Stowa will tell you a different "official" story about some forest close to their home but we know the truth .

It's the first time a DLC coated watch is offered by Stowa (we talked about this process here) and it's a limited edition of only 200 pieces worldwide. It is based on an existing model but modernized and made "better" by being all black (with the movement given the same treatment) and a splash of bright orange to give it that extra pizzazz (and to make time telling easier). Tongue-in-cheek aside we really do like the black/orange colorway (to steal a sneaker term). 

Stowa watches are produced under the guidance of watchmaker Jorg Schauer, and the case work is flawless. Really. At this price point (around 800 Euro. less VAT if you're outside Europe) there is no better case. Shame I can't say the same about the movement. The original plan was to make the eta 2801-2, essentially a 2824 minus the rotor, to be fully black with bright orange branding on it, but technical difficulties put that idea to bed. Personally I felt that if an all-black movement wasn't going to happen, I'd much rather they covered it up and offered a special case back. 

Having said that, the movement minus rotor meant less height and I was pleasantly surprised at just how thin the whole watch is. Dress watch thin. Not stupidly thin like a Piaget Altiplano but thin enough for everyday wear. It won't intrude and won't present itself to being caught on door frames and cuffs. 

The dial is very clean, the logo is only really visible at certain angles under certain lighting. Everything you need to tell the time and nothing you don't. Like, oh I dunno... Say... a paragraph on the dial saying how officially accurate this watch is... The strap is thick, soft and comfortable. Nuff said. Overall the watch feels great, sits well on the wrist and it is very light.

I do feel that a classic pilot watch is a must in every collection. And because so many brands make this style of watches, you really are spoilt for choice at every price point. You could go authentic and buy one from the original manufactures of the pilot watch or if you're less picky, even fossil makes one. 

So what about this Stowa Black Forest? It's not my first pick for a pilot watch. I'd go for something more historically correct in terms of aesthetics (for example, below right). But as a second? Most definitely. Problem is that this Black Forest edition 1 IS a limited edition of only 200 pieces and they're all sold out. (I was lucky enough to see and review this piece, thanks to the generosity of its owner). This piece COULD be the only one in Australia. But luckily, Stowa makes a wide range of flieger watches and they're quite reasonably priced. You can see the range HERE.

Here's the Black Forest next to its OG cousin. Photo courtesy of the owner

**By the way I plagiarised and butchered the lyrics to "Bye Bye Birdie" at the beginning of the post.

Top 10 Best Swiss/German Mechanical/Automatic watches under $1000 UPDATE: 2013

It's been just over a year since our first top 10 Swiss/German mechanical/automatic watches under $1000 was published and the response was overwhelming! We had no idea so many people were interested in high quality mechanical watches under $1000 and that this figure seemed to have really struck a chord. So one year one, we have decided to come up with an updated list of our top 10 Swiss/German mechanical/automatic watches under $1000.

A number of things have changed. firstly, the AUD isn't where it used to be. This meant a couple of watches that were under are now over, so they were excluded. There were also a few watches that people felt weren't really properly Swiss or German, so this year, we have stricter rules and definitions. To be included in this year's list, the watch MUST have either "Swiss Made" or "Made In Germany" on the dial.

German watches again takes up 50% of the slots, but not only that, the watches are so well priced that you could almost buy 2 for $1000. Funnily enough all of the German watches runs Swiss movements! And on with the list:


Steinhart Le Mans GT Automatic - 412 Euro (excl. VAT)

For this year I have chosen Le Mans GT automatic, as it is another of their in-house designs. It's pretty darn obvious from the name and the style what they were going for in this watch. For the price you get an elaboree grade ETA2824-2 movement, and amazing dial detailing AND case detailing. (Spoke of the alloy wheel on the dial, case is the tyre, with tyre grooves on the side of the case and strap, and the case back is the disc brake!) Granted this watch isn't for everyone, but for a motor racing fan, I think it's a must have. You can buy direct from their website.

http://www.steinhartwatches.de/en/Le-Mans-GT-automatic,559.html


Stowa Ikarus - from 488 Euro (excl. VAT)

The Ikarus is a stunning looking watch drawing on pilot watch design cues, but with a matte finished grey dial (apparently from galvanisation) and a subtle date window at 6:00. The layout is classic and with a diametre at 40mm, also extremely wearable. The Stowa case quality is top notch (a step above Steinhart) and it is powered by ETA2824-2. You have the option of upgrading a number of items on the watch for extra dough, direct from their website.

http://www.stowa.de/


Archimede Pilot 42 Automatic - 399 euro (excl. VAT)

On the list for the second year running- their prices have gone up a little bit, but still extremely good value.

One thing Archimede is famous for is the watch case. Their cases are made by Ickler, (who also produces watches under several other brands) and you know when I said the case is good for Steinhart at the price? Well, Archimede watch cases take it to an entirely different plane. I'd rate them alongside many of the bigger 'prestige' brands. Which makes their pilot watch, a pinch at 399 euros, steal of the century.That is, of course, if you like pilot watches. They do have other models in the range, but I think their Pilot line is the most successful. And everyone needs a Pilot watch in their collection, right? It's a classic that'll never go out of style. If you can afford it, for an extra 20 euro, you get a sterile dial ie, no branding, and that gives it a very clean look. And like a decent German car, you can also spend lots optioning up the watch with such luxury items as curved sapphire, custom engraving, bracelet etc. This is also available direct from their website.

http://www.archimede-uhren.de/archimede-uhren-kollektion-pilot-deckwatch-klassik-taucher-outdoor-automatik-handaufzug-chronograph-2824-6498-7750/pilot-automatik-2824-handaufzug-6498-chronograph-7750-b-uhr-fliegeruhr/pilot-42-automatik-fliegeruhr-b-uhr-eta-2824.html


Defakto Akkord - from 420 euro

On the list for the 2nd year in a row, we still love the styling and the pricing.
Their watches are also made by Ickler, so you know the case quality is top notch. But the Defakto brand itself enploys very minimalistic, bauhaus inspired designs. Perfect for those who are sick of paragraphs printed on dials. The Akkord is more traditional with 2 hands, (but you can also get 1-handed watches for that extra minimalistic look) and powered by ETA 2824. Available direct from their website. Like their sister brand, Archimede, you can also choose your customisation for the watch for extra dough.

http://www.defakto-uhren.de/en/configurator/


Max Bill by Junghans Manual - USD853

The last German watch on the list, it's their first appearance on the Tart's top 10. The watch style is bauhaus minimalistic, and it is a small diametre watch (at 34mm). However, as the watch is all dial and no bezel, it does wear bigger and it's great for someone looking for a dressy, understated watch. The height of the watch is only 8.8mm, which is really quite thin and will easily fit under the cuffs. The watch is powered by ETA2801-2 (essentially a 2824 without the rotor) and available direct from the website.

http://www.maxbillwatches.com/junghans-bill-mechanical-027370000-p-10.html


Christopher Ward C5 Malvern Auto/C8 Pilot Mk II Vintage - 396 Pounds

Yes another variation on the pilot watch. What can I say? It's a classic design! Chris Ward is an English brand with watches made in Switzerland. Their watches aren't bad at all, and should be considered if you can get over the awkward branding. CHRWARD just looks awkward.... The watch is powered by Sellita SW200-1 (essentially a 2824 clone) meaning you're not likely to have any issues. A lot of the bigger brands are switching over teo Sellita as ETA slowly decreases supplies to brands outside the swatchgroup and Sellita takes over the slack. You can get them direct from their website

http://www.christopherward.co.uk/men/aviation/c8-svkt-mk2.html


Mondaine Automatic - 439 Pounds (Maybe VAT back...)

Mondaine are known for being the Swiss railway clock. The distinctive dial is highly legible and can be accurately read at a distance, thanks to its high contrast colours and simplicity. In 1986 this design was interpreted into the wristwatch form and they haven't looked back since. Most Mondaine watches are quartz, but they do have a small collection of automatic watches, aptly named "automatic". They come in 40mm case diametre and are powered by the Sellita S220-1 with day-date functions. See the watch here and maybe purchased here:

http://www.jurawatches.co.uk/collections/mondaine-watches/products/mondaine-automatic-day-date-a132-30348-11sbb-watch-md-103


The final 3 watches on the list are all part of the giant conglomerate the swatchgroup. Being big has its advantages- price advantages. They are able to offer extremely good value and the following are just the tip of the iceberg.


Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto 38mm USD870

To be honest, this watch just might have the best bang-for-your-bux at the under $1000 category. It is the only watch powered by the ETA 2892-A2 movement, and this is a much more "premium" movement compared to the ETWA 2824-2. Nothing wrong with the 2824. Mind you, it's probably one of the most reliable, but you generally don't see the 2892 fitted to watches under $1000. Keep in mind that the same basic movement is used in Omega as Calibre 1120, and was also used as a base for the very first versions of Omega's co-axial movement, the Calibre 2500. This Hamilton, although only 38mm in diametre, it wears much bigger thanks to its all-dial-and-no-bezel design. It really really is a shame that Hamilton isn't sold in Australia. I'm sure they'll do extremely well here.


Tissot Heritage Visodate from 2012 USD650

The Visodate is inspired by 50s Tissot watches of the same name and it really is a great modern interpretation of a classic. For those who must have both the day and the date on display, this is a great watch. Go with the white dial though. I can't stand the day/date disc being in different colours to the dial. Just can't. I also really like the ye-olde-style Tissot logo on the dial. Powered by the ETA 2836-2 (Basically day-date version of the ETA2824) you can't go wrong and it's a gorgeous classic looking watch. I'd take this one if you can't get your hands on the Hamilton.


Swatch Automatic - $220 (at your local friendly Swatch retailer/boutique)

There are plenty of Swatch Irony automatics you can choose from, and seriously? If you want something Swiss, automatic, and in steel, and don't have a big watch budget, this truly is the way to go. And yes, you can service these and yes, a great watchmaker will be able to regulate the watch to within COSC accuracy (ie -4 to +6 seconds a day), and yes, really for around $220 Aussie. I'll be honest, there won't be much (if at all) of those old-dude-in-a-white-lab-coat involved in the making of this watch, but really... I don't think that's a factor at this price point...

Hopefully this list have introduced you to some watches that might now be up for consideration, and it's actually really not that pricey to get into a proper Swiss/German mechanical watch. My picks of the bunch would be the Hamilton for dress watch and the Archimede for the sports watch. C'mon. You can't have just the one watch. Seriously. It just won't work. Same as you can't have just the one knife.

Pilot Watch Worldtimer Showdown!

Recently we received a letter from one of our readers*. It says, "Dear Sydney Tart, I'm a pilot and I travel the world. What can you suggest in the form of a pilot watch with world time zone functions? "

Well Mr Pilot, I'm very glad you asked that question because we have found not one, but 4 watches that are right up your alley, at different price points, so you're covered if you work for Jetstar or Emirates or you fly your own Cessna. Let's explore further.

For starters, as a criteria, all watches features the pilot watch style, along with a world time zone function. All watches in this list shows the cities from the 24 time zones around the edge of the dial, with day/night indicators. Most of the representative city names for the time zones are the same, with some minor differences here and there. One of the watches runs a manually wound movement whilst the other three are automatic. One runs a heavily modified ETA movement, the others are manufacture in-house movements. Two of the watches features no additional functions apart from date, while the other two adds the alarm function, and one goes further with a chronograph built in as well. It's up to you whether you feel you need the additional functions or you're happy with time and date. Two of the watches also feature daylight saving indications, whereas the other two you'll have to add/subtract an hour yourself. You also need to note that none of these watches show half-hour time zones, so if you're based in New Delhi or Adelaide, ahem...

This quartet of watches not only covers a fairly broad price range, they also cover a range of sizes, from 42mm to 46mm. Some will wear larger/smaller than others so as always, we recommend that you try the watches on if you can. As worldtimers, you're not going to have a clean dial, Although one brand does it quite well. All the other have fairly busy dials. Hopefully this will give you a good idea of what's available, and depending on you needs and wants and thickness of your wallet, you can't go wrong with any of them. But, we do have our pick, which we will reveal after the specs for each model.

Alpina Startimer Pilot Worldtimer

Movement: Automatic caliber AL-718, 

48 hour power reserve

Case Diametre: 44mm

Water resistant: 100m

Limited Edition: 8888 pieces

Price: USD3,450

IWC Pilot's Watch Worldtimer

Movement: Automatic Caliber 30750, 

42 hour power reserve

Case Diametre: 45mm

Water resistance: 60 meters

Price: USD9,650

Vulcain Aviator GMT

Movement: Mechanical manually-wound Manufacture Vulcain Calibre V-10,

42 hour power reserve with alarm function.

Alarm Duration: Approx. 20 seconds

Case Diametre: 42mm

Case-back: triple case-back acting as a resonance chamber 

Water resistant: 100m

Price: USD5,525

Zenith Pilot Doublematic

Movement: El Primero 4046, automatic, 50h power reserve, 36.600 A/h, big date, chronograph, World Time, alarm

Case Diametre: 45mm 

water resistant: 50m

Price: USD14,200

Our pick of the bunch would have to be the Zenith. Yes it is the most expensive watch here but to us it is also the best value for money, given all the included complications. 

*the reader and/or the letter may or may not be fictional. Juz sayin'

Formula 1 and Watches Update! 2013

F1 and watches update!

Information are current as of Monaco GP 2013

Since our last post on the relationship between F1 and watches, quite a bit have changed. So just to offer an update, here are where things stand. So, if it's not mentioned here it'll be business as usual as per our previous post.

The most obvious and noticed change for 2013 is Rolex taking over the Formula 1 official timing partner role from Hublot. Hublot of course stays on as partners to Ferrari.

After being dropped or dropping TW Steel, Lotus has now picked up Richard Mille (quite an upgrade, in fact) from the Spanish GP onwards. Richard Mille already provides watches for Massa and the president of the FIA - Jean Todt. So, it's only natural that they also stick their name on the nose of a racing team. However, this deal doesn't seem to extend to drivers as Romain Grojean still wears a TAG Heuer, and Kimi seems to remain watch-less for now...

Richard Mille's Jean Todt Limited Edition

TW Steel had jumped ship over to Force India at the beginning of the year. So it's the first time that Force India has an official watch partner. Perhaps our post had something to do with it??

However, an interesting thought had occurred. TW Steel picked up Lotus (back when it was Renault) right after the spygate scandal and they've now become a force to be reckoned with. Force India is now doing quite well with TW Steel stickers on the car. Perhaps these boys are some sort of a good luck charm to the team? Maybe Caterham should consider getting TW Steel on side?

The IWC and Mecedes GP partnership was mentioned before as IWC launched a complete range of Ingenieur watches at SIHH 2013. But rather than being a watch partner, they're actually an "engineering" partner. However, starting from the Monaco Gran Prix, both drivers Nico Rosberg and Lewis Hamilton will become "Friends of the Brand". This is quite the step up for both pilots, Nico from Thomas Sabo and Lewis from TAG Heuer. They were both given the Big Pilot's Watch to wear as they are both, err, pilots... Team pricipal Ross Brawn can be seen wearing one of the new Ingenieurs.

After losing Lewis to IWC, TAG Heuer picks up Sergio Perez as he partners Jenson Button at McLaren, and as we all know all McLaren drivers automatically becomes ambassadors for TAG Heuer.

Caterham did partner with watch brand BRM from the beginning of 2012 (How I missed this I have no idea, and no one seemed to have picked it up!!) and I'm assuming this continues into 2013 as BRM website currently has the Caterham F1 limited edition watches on their website.

Torro Rosso drivers Daniel Ricciardo and Jean-Eric Verne still doesn't have any watch sponsorship...

Everything else remains the same for the time being.

Baselworld 2013 - Alpina Startimer Pilot Chrono Big Date

If you loved the aesthetics of IWC's 2012 release Top Gun Miramar pilot's watch, but cannot stump up enough greens for this green machine? Fear not! Alpina has heard your cried and brought their own versions to the Danger Zone. It features a choice of subdued military colour scheme, for (I'm guessing) 2 less zeros in the price tag.

IWC Top Gun Miramar Chrono

Bear in mind that the Alpina range is quartz powered, but then again, when you're in a rush to feel the need for speed, who has time to wind their watch up before blasting past Mach 4? But just because it's quartz doesn't mean it's not a good watch. You still get high quality 44mm case in steel or PVD coated, AR coated sapphire crystal and a highly legible and balanced dial. Don't be such a movement snob. In life, we can at times do without the added complication. But if you must be a movement snob, There's always the Startimer automatic. You just have to go without the military styling. Or hope that Alpina makes one sometime down the track.

Top 10 Swiss/German Mechanical watches under $1000

**Updated 2013 List HERE**


I've had some people asking me more details about watches under $1k ever since the brief mention in the Sydney watch collector interview here. I thought it would be a great idea to do a top ten list of the 10 best new watches (in my opinion, the ones that I would happily wear and recommend to others) under $1k. As this blog has gained quite the international following, the $1k limit is set in USD, which is pretty close to AUD anyway. (for those in other major regions, this would be roughly around EUR800, 650GBP, 1000CHF, and 80,000Yen)

It was mentioned before that there are a lot of really nice watches to be had brand new under $1k, but of course, at this price, you'll need to forgo the "big brands" and start looking at some brands you may or may not have heard of. But if you cared about that you wouldn't be reading this blog would you? You'd just go and get that Rolex Datejust/Sub and be done. For the vast majority of you, who wear watches because you like them, let's go to the top ten list.

Of course, this list is by no means exhaustive and the watches are listed in no particular order... (Ok, in order of the watches that comes to mind) If there are enough watches left over at the end of the list I'll do a second top ten list...

Now the criteria for the watches that can appear on this list are the following:
1. Swiss/German made
2. houses a Swiss/German mechanical movement (with 1 exception)
3. More or less readily available (ie, not limited to 10 pieces worldwide)

This is also a good gift guide for that special someone (or yourself) for the upcoming holiday seasons. I would also very happily wear any of the following watches. In fact, a few of them are on my shopping list. Many brands also sell direct through their website (and I've included links where applicable). And now, without further ado, the top 10 watches under $1000, in no particular order...


Steinhart Ocean 2 - 412 euro

I have a soft spot for Steinhart and have owned/still own several of their models. It is simply amazing what they pump out for the price they charge. Amazing bang-for-your-bucks. Granted there are conspiracies regarding where exactly do they get their parts (as the requirement for the "Swiss Made" stamp is relatively low - won't get into that now) but then again, we could also argue where exactly some of the bigger brands get their parts... But all that is not important in the global village of today.

Another criticism of Steinhart is their derivative/homage styling. That has changed in recent years as they put more effort into their own styles and designs. They won't appeal to everyone but again, that is the case with pretty much every brand out there.

A lot of Steinhart models falls under the $1000 limit, but I have chosen the Ocean 2 as for me, it's one of their more successful inhouse designs. brilliant symmetrical dial, powered by the workhorse ETA 2824 movement (which you'll find fitted to watches 10 times the price), case quality is excellent for the price, and in my opinion, very good customer service (as long as you don't expect immediate answers- they get there in the end). This piece is high on my shopping list. You can get them direct from their website.

Steinhart


Archimede Pilot 42 Automatic - 375 euro

One thing Archimede is famous for is the watch case. Their cases are made by Ickler, (who also produces watches under several other brands) and you know when I said case is good for Steinhart at the price? Well, Archimede watch cases takes it to an entirely different plane. I'd rate them alongside many of the bigger 'prestige' brands. Which makes their pilot watch, a pinch at 375 euros, steal of the century. That is, of course, if you like pilot watches. They do have other models in the range, but I think their Pilot line is the most successful one. And everyone needs a Pilot watch in their collection, right? It's a classic that'll never go out of style. If you can afford it, for an extra 20 euro, you get a sterile dial ie, no branding, and that gives it a very clean look. And like a decent German car, you can also spend lots optioning up the watch with such luxury items as curved sapphire, custom engraving, bracelet etc. This is also available direct from their website

Archimede


Prometheus Signatura - 389 euro

I only found them quite recently. But what they've made really blew my mind! I don't care much for any of their other models, but the Signatura is done so right where many others (more expensive) have done wrong. You'd think it quite easy to produce an elegant dress watch, but that doesn't seem to be the case. Prometheus managed it for a paltry 389 Euro! From the images the case quality seem to be on par with Steinhart, but for the money you get sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, sapphire display back with custom rotor, enamel dial(!!!), and Sellita SW200 (same as ETA 2824). The dial is simply gorgeous and elegant, and to top it off, symmetrical (yes I have a thing about symmetry on dials and good proportions in general). I really like the black dial as the enamel gives it a certain depth and sheen but you can't go wrong with the white dial/blued hands version either. A definite on my shopping list, direct from their website:

Prometheus


SevenFriday - 897 CHF

So far we've looked at very traditional looking watches. But what if you wanted something a bit "out there"? Well this one is for you. Name's a bit.. well.. but at least it's easy to remember and easily pronounceable. It doesn't look like anything else on the market around the same price range. (You'd need to be sniffing around the 5 figure mark at the very least). This is definitely not for everyone, but I really love it. So much so I'm willing to overlook the miyota movement (not that there's anything wrong with them) and include it on this list.

you can even print the watch out to try on your wrist!


Available direct from their website or from Jura watches for 695 pounds, less VAT if overseas

SevenFriday
Jura Watches


Defakto Akkord from 420 euro

Their watches are also made by Ickler, so you know the case quality is top notch. But the Defakto brand itself employs very minimalistic, bauhaus inspired designs. Perfect for those who are sick of paragraphs printed on dials. The Akkord is more traditional with 2 hands, (but you can also get 1-handed watches for that extra minimalistic look) and powered by ETA 2824. Available direct from their website. Like their sister brand, Archimede, you can also choose your customisation for the watch for extra dough.

Defakto


Halios 1000m "The Puck" $780 USD

Do you like to go deep? Or maybe you just like the idea that you could? Or perhaps you just like a massive chunky watch on your wrist? Then this is for you. With a diametre of 47mm and a height of 14.5mm, it is certain like wearing a hockey puck on your wrist. But it's all about the wrist presence isn't it? Big enough to also use as a weapon. The amount of stainless steel and sapphire crystal (domed and 4mm thick) makes this watch a bargain at $780 USD, direct from their website

Halios Watches


Stowa Marine Auto - EUR680 less VAT

Stowa is a great brand with a great history. (Stowa is one of the original makers of the pilot watch in the 40s) They continue today under Jorge Schauer, and continue to bring out great watches. The Marine is aother classically styled watch (like the Pilot) and Stowa's Marine watch comes with heated blue hands and a sterling silver dial. It's also powered by ETA 2824. I'd say their case quality matches that of Ickler's and you also get a variety of options to customise your watch.

Stowa Watches


Now we come to the 'bigger' brands. Well, the next two can probably still be considered quite niche, but by bigger brands I mean that they do spend money on advertising and marketing so you will need to factor that into the price... However if you searched hard enough on the interwebs I'm sure you can find some good deals.

Glycine Combat 6 manual 590 pounds less VAT

For a 'bigger' brand they're still fairly good value for money. But you are looking at the sort of case quality equal to that of Steinhart. But if you prefer a manual wind movement (or you just don't want something powered by 2824 or equivalent) this would be the one for you. It's powered by ETA 2801, which, well... it's really just the 2824 minus the rotor... um... You do get a choice of different dials for this model, ranging from sporty to dressy. My pick would be the blue dial. Love it. Jura watches in the UK has them in stock on strap for 590 pounds, less VAT if overseas.

Glycine Watches
Jura Watches


Sinn 556 - 630 euro on strap

There is something about Sinn. Unfortunately name perhaps in English, but there is a certain something that just feels special about their watches. With a Sinn, at under $1000 will get you into one of the very basic entry level watches in their range, but that doesn't mean it's any less of a watch. Case quality is again top notch, and although it is powered by ETA 2824, you do also get the following:

Shock resistant as per DIN 8308
Anti-magnetic as per DIN 8309
Sapphire crystal front and back, anti-reflective on both sides on the front, anti-reflective one side on the back
200m water resistant
low pressure resistant

It's also a smaller watch compared to all the others on this list at 38.5, so if you prefer something not so ostentatious but classy and high quality at the same time, you won't sin with a Sinn. Ahem.

Sinn watches


Hamilton Jazzmaster Slim

Last but not least is one watch from one of the majors. Hamilton is part of the Swatchgroup behemoth, but being part of something so big has its perks. Access to in-family ETA movements at most likely mate's rates, you get surprisingly good value and build quality from their watches. Especially the Jazzmaster Slim, which caught my attention not long ago. A really elegant dress watch, in 2 sizes (I'd go for the 40mm) powered by ETA 2892! The 2892 is much more expensive than the 2824, plus it is also a thinner movement, and by most accounts, a more 'premium' movement than 2824. And yet, look at what you get for the price! and this is retail. You can easily find them cheaper than that online. For my money, I'd get a Hamilton over a Tissot. Even if Hamilton is originally an US watch brand, they're all Swiss now, and I just think their watches are much, much better than Tissot. (Which is also why I haven't included any Tissot watches in this list. I do like Tissot, but... hmmm... bang-for-your-buck? Hammy wins hands down.)

Hamilton watches

43mm - 625EUR 795USD, 950CHF
40mm - 525EUR, 695USD, 795CHF

Hopefully this list has opened your eyes to some amazing new watches available out there for not a lot of money. And in most cases, if you buy right, you'll get most of your money back when it comes time to part ways. Most of the smaller brands (Steinhart, Archimede, etc) will amaze you with their resale value since they are sought after and not all that many in circulation.