Showing posts with label ETA movement. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ETA movement. Show all posts

Sunday, April 7, 2013

On The Wrist: Calvin Klein Collection 'Date' - ETA 2824-2


Now here's an interesting watch. Well no. The watch itself isn't really that interesting. The mere fact that it exists is interesting. I'm not sure what the swatchgroup was trying to pull or what they were smoking when they came up with this idea. Or what their mental state is when the idea was approved... Am I being too harsh? Bear with me.

We all know that Calvin Klein licenses his name to various products. I have friends who insists that ck products to them are nothing more than undies and perfumes. But we're not talking about the breadth of ck's product offerings but just one of the licensed product line- wristwatches.

Ck watches are produced by the swatchgroup. I have no idea who designs them but doubt Calvin has any personal input. the whole line was designed on the philosophy of minimalism. Fashion watches with Swiss quality (ahem - we won't go into what constitute a Swiss made watch in this post) at affordable prices. It's worked well. I'm a big admirer of the designs and their quality at first glance shames other fashion branded watches at similar pricing.

I guess it worked so well that they decided to diversify. Out came a line of "cheaper" watches branded ck jeans. Quality I reckon is about the same as the main ck line but with a more youthful tilt. Hmmm. I mean ok the range is still priced well enough to appeal to their target market.

Their next diversification step I'm less sure of. Hence my comments regarding their mental state. For what I perceive to be ck's main target market, this range of watches is completely wrong. Let me tell you why. The "Calvin Klein Collection" is a range of 3 (fine, 6 if you separate the strap and bracelet variations) watches that are powered by various high-endish swiss mechanical movements, priced higher than that of their sister brand Tissot and Hamilton (both of whom have long watchmaking history and reputation) and have relatively higher quality than both, if not, at least equal to that of Hamilton's. Do you see the problem yet? (Ok - A quite browse on the CK website shows that the brand "Calvin Klein Collection" is their most prestigious and luxurious brand, but still...)



Your average ck client is not going to spend that kind of money on a Swiss mechanical ck watch. I don't think they'd even care.  Even if they do, a Longines or a Tag Heuer might be more what they would be looking at for at the price range. Meaning there are plenty of established watchmaking alternatives. So that's price and positioning gone. Promotion? What promotion? I ain't never heard of nor seen this range of watches till I accidentally came across it at a local AD (authorised dealer). (I think Ralph Lauren is doing a better job flogging his top of the line watches) And even then some of the staff had had doubts as to why the boss even brought this range in. They suspect copious amounts of alcohol may be to blame. At the very least you CAN buy it, and it IS available. That leaves the product itself.



And the product isn't half bad I must admit. We here at Sydney Tarts are strictly non-discriminative when it comes to watches, and if you can ignore the name on the dial for the moment and just focus on the product itself, it's actually quite good.  Let's break it down.

The case itself is very well made, with brushed and polished surfaces. I like a watch with a thin bezel and this one is about as thin as it gets. As a result the watch does wear a bit larger. The bracelet is solid with a pretty funky albeit fiddly clasp. I'm not a big fan of the bracelet as the design is quite generic and bland. For me as a rule of thumb I always get the watch on the bracelet as you can always swap it onto a strap. But in this case I'd say skip the bracelet. The watch looks a million times better on a strap.



The dial is clean and on certain angles you can barely see the brand, which can be a good thing. Some will say the dial would be even better if there's no date but I'm ok with it. It's the same color as the dial and it doesn't interfere with the overall balance of the dial. What really attracted me to this watch is actually the color of the dial. It's a wonderful shade of anthracite slate grey which you don't often find on the lower pricing scale. Some brands even keep this colour dial for their limited edition/boutique edition/white gold models. Apart from the colour, the concentric circles reminds me of the Omega DeVille Hour Vision. Something that costs 8 times more.



The case is thin enough given what's inside and it sits on the wrist well without protruding too much. Speaking of whats inside let's talk about the movement. Believe it or not it's the elaboree version (one step down from the chronometer version) of the venerable workhorse ETA 2824-2.
This is a better grade than what's found in Tissot. Doesn't mean it'll be more accurate since I have a Tissot with a basic 2824 and that kept time to within a second a day out of the box. The higher grade meant better materials and more decorations. Something you wouldn't be ashamed of showing with the see through case back.



The other two models in the range are the second petite which uses the ETA 2895 movement, essentially the 2892 with a small seconds and of course the 7750 powered chronograph. I reckon the pick of the lot would be the second petite as in my opinion the movement is that little bit better than the 2824 but both are equally as reliable. The chrono dial is a bit busy and takes away from the minimalistic design language. The only criticisms would be a slightly bigger crown so it's not as hard to wind the watch (but if you wear it everyday you don't really need to worry about this point) and slightly longer hands (purely personal taste).





I mentioned before that pricing isn't great but that is only a recommended retail price. In fact the AD I found these watches in are doing a great deal on these watches *cough* 3 figures for the date model *cough* and this actually brings the price back into the equation. So if you don't mind what's printed on the dial and would like a good quality dressy watch with relatively good value for money, and something not every man and his dog has, you could do worse than consider a watch from the Calvin Klein Collection.


Saturday, October 27, 2012

Longines Ladies Dolce Vita - ETA 980.153 Battery & Strap change


Time for another battery/strap change!

Longines Ladies Dolce Vita
This time on the Missus's Longines Dolce Vita. The Dolce Vita is an extremely popular watch for ladies, being fairly well priced (at the retail level) and it is a very elegant and classy watch, at the same time very versatile. You can dress it up or down and comes with many different dial colours and styles. Hers is the beige dial with black roman numerals, giving it a hint of Cartier...

Yes - Dick Smith battery. The size was common enough and I couldn't be bothered buying the battery on ebay then waiting for it to be sent over from China.
The Dolce Vita has a snap-on case back, so fairly easy to open with the right tool. It is very tight (as it should be) so best to leave one side of the bracelet on the watch, as the end link gives you some leverage to pry open the case back. (Otherwise the case back sits very flush with the case, and you risk damaging the case/scratching the case/deep gouges on the edges which are all big no-nos when it's the Missus's watch. Even if it is already scratched to buggery...)

Leave one side of the bracelet on to use as leverage


Once it's popped open, all smooth sailing from here. As most other quartz watches, there really isn't much to see. Simple plastic casing ring with a Longines L178 movement, aka ETA 980.153. What I do find interesting is that Longines has also signed the movement with name and calibre. (Tag Heuer didn't do this with their quartz movement) I'm pretty indifferent about this aspect. It's a quartz movement that in general consumers don't see, so... meh... Battery size fitted here is 379, but according to the manual a 317 will also fit. However you'll find that the 379 is much, much more common...

Very basic movement with plastic casing ring. Nothing to write home about.
The movement is again very common. If you see a ladies watch with 3 hands, small seconds at 6:00, More likely than not this would be the movement. Haven't heard anything bad about it, so I'm going to assume that it's reliable enough. As a smaller movement it is not much cheaper to replace, a quick glance over the interwebs prices the movement at around about USD25-35.


Snapping the case back in place takes a bit of pressure but easily done. The Dolce Vita unfortunately has a less-common lug width (outside the norm of 14mm, 16mm, 18mm 20mm, etc) at 15mm across, meaning it can be a little more difficult to find aftermarket straps to fit. As the watch is quite small, a 1mm difference can be quite huge (unlike, say, squeezing a 24mm wide strap into a 23mm lugth width which would be ok...)

The versatility of the watch comes into play once again with straps. You can fit almost any colour strap to the watch (provided you can find them in 15mm width) Here it is with a lovely white strap to give it that summer feeling.


Yes- again, this is not taking into consideration the water resistant ability of the watch after the battery change. But it's not really a watch you'd stick in water anyway, and as it is, a bit of rain will not cause damage. 

Monday, September 17, 2012

ETA 955.112 (as fitted to TAG Heuer Link Quartz)


Battery Change on TAG Heuer Link Quartz - ETA 955.112 movement

I find that as watchnerds we tend to neglect quartz movements, even though they power the vast majority of watches out there, and there aren't really all that much information on them either. Previously I quickly posted about the ETA G01.211 as fitted to a CK watch and the response has been better than expected, confirming that people out there do want to know about quartz movements. So, here is a post on another popular and widely used ETA quartz movement, as fitted to a TAG Heuer Link watch.

The watch in question, and brand new battery ready to go
This watch is about 10 years old now, and this will only be its 2nd battery change. That's a pretty good run averaging 5 years on one battery. Although I must admit I'm not sure when the watch stopped! This particular model is powered by the ETA 955.112 quartz movement, which features an end-of-life indication. What this means is that when the battery runs low, the seconds hand will jump every 4 seconds rather than every second, thus telling you it's in need of some fresh juice.

All the tools I need to conduct the battery change...
I prefer to remove the bracelet on one side to have better access to open the case back. I've removed it from the lugs as it is a spring bar. You could also do it from the clasp, but in this case it was a friction pin and I couldn't be stuffed hammering it out...
ETA 955.112 is a very common quartz movement found in gents' watches. It is also one of the most reliable quartz movements you can get on the market today. The movement is easily replaceable, and a quick glance through the interwebs will net you one of these movements for about 25 bucks. So don't worry if your watch dies on you. Just drop a new movement in and you have a brand new watch again! (provided you've looked after the aesthetics side of things, ie, no scratches and dings and what not)

"Friction ball" used to open the case back. This way I won't leave nasty scratches/gouges on the case back in case I slip. BUT, the downside is that it doesn't have enough 'torque' to really fully tighten the case back
The ETA 955.112 is relatively svelte, so it looks small in the case, needing a fairly thick plastic casing ring
Another thing to keep in mind is that to be honest, not many watch companies will "sign" a quartz movement at this price point, especially since you don't see it anyway. So don't be alarmed if you just see a generic ETA movement inside. This is perfectly normal. There are also some smaller companies out there that fit a see-through case back to show a generic mechanical movement anyway, so it's nothing to be alarmed about. An unsigned movement does not a fake watch make. You'll probably find the opposite will ring true for some, as fake watches will try to convince you of their "authenticity" by "branding" the movement and everything else around it...

Movement is ETA stamped, but nothing else
Now, officially the correct battery for this movement is 371, but I have fitted a 395 battery, which has the same diametre, but it is a bit taller. For the movement the 395 will work and it won't damage the movement, unlike many people seem to think. 395 is also a much more commonly used battery compared to 371. Of course if the watch is very thin and there is not much spare "space" best to go with the 371. Other than that you won't find any issues.

395 battery fitted
Obviously the watch is not tested for water resistance since I don't have the tool, and the "grip ball" I used to loosen/tighten the case back doesn't really offer enough "torques" to properly tighten the case back. By right, I  should also change the glass seal and the back rubber seal to guarantee the watch will resist water again to 200m, but I know it's not going anywhere near water, so this doesn't bother me.

Other than that the watch should be good for another 4-5 years before needing the next battery change.


Tech Specs of ETA 955.112 Movement: (=955.114)


Movement Dimensions: 11 1/2 Ligne = 25.60mm
Movement Height: 2.50mm
Number of Jewels: 7
Minute Hand Fitting: 0.70mm
Hour Hand Fitting: 1.20mm
Second Hand Fitting: 0.20mm
Battery: 371/395

This movement is available with centre seconds (3H), or without (2H).
The position of the date can be at 3:00 or 6:00.
The date ring can be changed on this movement.

Different heights may be available.

Approx. US$25

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