Showing posts with label collectors. Show all posts
Showing posts with label collectors. Show all posts

Monday, September 10, 2012

One-on-one With A Melbourne Watch Collector Part 2


Part 2 of the one-on-one interview with a Melbourne watch collector. You can read part 1 here. In part 2 we talk about MWC's foray into independent watchmaking...

TST: So what led you to the world of independent watchmakers - those who literally "make" the watches? And how did you decide which independent watchmaker to go for?

MWC: I guess part of it is the exclusivity. Anyone can wear a Rolex or an Omega. Other than parting with the money, they take no effort to buy and they're available immediately. I have a modified Seiko diver that I had the hands, dial and bezel changed on, so it's exclusive - no one else has the same one as me. 

Modded Seikos are fine, but I think I've reached the stage in my collecting that I want to wear a watch that very few others can own. I had the great pleasure of attending a dinner with Peter Speake-Marin when he was in Australia two years ago, and while his watches fill the brief - exclusive and beautiful - they're also expensive. So I went looking for a lower cost independent, which is sort of an oxymoron. 

I stumbled across d.m.h., a very small brand made in Holland. One watchmaker (he also does everything else there, from answer emails to making coffee for visitors), who makes about two dozen watches a year. About an 18 month waiting list when I placed my order, which has grown to about three years. 


Here you can see the d.m.h. in the centre of the collection
TST: Other than being extremely low volume and the likelihood to have a unique timepiece, what else attracted you to DMH?

MWC: I think part of it was the pleasure of dealing with the watchmaker, the man who was going to build my timepiece, not some sales guy in a shop in Mody Rd in Hong Kong. 

I was in Holland recently and the opportunity to visit him. A very relaxed, happy man, who's lucky enough to do something that he just loves doing. And he's making the cases on a lathe and a milling machine that his father used, he told me a great story about being 9 or 10, and standing beside his father, watching him use the lathe and wanting to one day do something similar. 




TST: After acquiring your first independent, do you see yourself going down this road?

MWC: I'm not sure, there aren't all that many in the d.m.h. price range, and I'm not quite ready to step up to a Speake-Marin or an MB&F. 

TST: Would acquiring an independent be something you recommend others to do as well?

MWC: Regardless of whether you end up owning an independently made watch, I think it's a fascinating area even if you're "just looking". It's all about the watch and the watchmaker, small businesses, watches literally being made in sheds at the bottom of gardens and not global brands, shift work and assembly facilities in bland industrial suburbs. I guess the independents are putting some of the romance back into the watch industry. 

TST: The romance of the watch industry- something that is often 'sold' but never truly realised. It is quite the experience to talk/meet with the one who literally makes your watch and puts his/her name and maybe yours(!), on the dial.

MWC: If you boil it all down to just the reason for the watch to exist, telling time, then why aren't we all wearing a Timex Ironman? I've got one, wear it cycling and swimming, I can use the chrono when it's wet, lap times, alarm, count down timer, etc. Cost me about $100. 

The rest is the romance. The story. The spin. Is a Rolex "better" than an Omega or a Panerai? As  long as they all keep good time - the Ironman is always spot on - how can one be better or worse than the other? We love to buy into the marketing and sales pitch. You apparently don't own a Patek, you just look after it for the next generation. At this stage my sons seem to be happy telling time with their smart phones, so if I buy a Patek, I can assure you, it's for me!

I can't think which brand it is, but one runs a campaign about how long they've been around. (That would be Vacheron Constantin - TST) So? As long as the quality control is good, how does that matter? Except it does. We want to feel good about that little machine on our wrists (and all its friends in the watch box), and about ourselves for being smart enough for understanding the brand, the message, the story. 

I was lucky enough to meet Fred Dingemans, who IS d.m.h.  He showed me his factory - it's a shed at the bottom of his garden, explained how he goes about making his watches, then we sat at his kitchen table, drank coffee and just chatted about life. Does that make my d.m.h. a better watch? No, but it makes it special for me, I have an appreciation of the watch, and a connection to it's maker that I could never have with a Rolex or an Omega. 

d.m.h. - image taken from the dmh website
TST: There are people out there who buys watches to be seen in. Watches that screams "I've made it" or "I have money!" Do you think they would ever been convinced into an independent watch, given the exclusivity and rarity?

MWC: I had dinner recently with a friend who in the last couple of years, as his business has flourished, has gone from the same TAG he's been wearing for most of the 20 years to owning a number of bigger, flashier watches. He's got a huge Omega Railmaster, and Rolex Deep Sea, the sort of watches that seem to say "look at me, I'm doing well, I can afford nice watches". Without wanting to sound like I'm running him down, I doubt he's ever given movements or the complications a moment's thought. He just likes the watches. Which is fine. 

I wore my new d.m.h., which I'm very proud of, it's something that I'm really enjoying, and having met the watchmaker, even more so. Not a brand that my mate had heard of, so no interest whatsoever. 

TST: And, finally, what advice would you give to someone who is looking to get into collecting/appreciating watches? Are there mistakes they can avoid?

MWC: Mistakes to avoid? Take your time, decide what you like, learn a bit about movements, and  understand sizing. Sounds easy, but quite early on I bought, on line, a lovely LITTLE chrono that was something like 32mm diameter and I was shocked when I received it. It was tiny. 

A watch advertised as rare is a word that is usually the opposite. A rare Seiko? Can't happen. Be a skeptic! 

And if the deal looks too good to be true, it is. Lots of scams out there, so be careful, but have fun ... After all, they're only watches. 

TST: Some great insights and great stories. Thanks again for your time!

Monday, September 3, 2012

One-on-one With A Melbourne Watch Collector Part 1

Previously we brought you an interview with a Sydney watch collector here, this time we have an interview with a Melbourne watch collector. Due to the obvious geographical complications, this interview was done unfortunately over email rather than the much preferred method of over a coffee and/or a whiskey... Perhaps a raincheck on the drinks? As the Sydney collector, this Melbourne collector also wishes to remain anonymous, so will simply remain as "Melbourne Watch Collector" (MWC)

TheSydneyTarts: Thank you for agreeing to the interview!

MelbourneWatchCollector: Thank you for asking me! I've been a big fan of the blog for some time now. 

TST: Well, let me again start with the obvious. How did you get started in watch collecting?

MWC: First of all, to me "a collection" implies some sort of order or logic to my purchases. I'm not sure that describes me, I think I'm more "one of those guys that owns a lot of watches".

About 25 years ago I had some sort of ana-digital watch – I'm guessing a Casio or Seiko – rectangular face, analog hands for time and a digital display at the bottom for date and maybe it had a chrono as well, but I couldn't say for sure. And in the fullness of time the battery went flat. So I said to my father, "Can I borrow a watch while I get the battery replaced?" and he lent me a nice Omega with a chrono.

What I didn't know at the time was I was wearing an early 60s Speedy. And it stayed on my wrist for probably close to 10 years (would you have bothered replacing the battery in the crappy Seiko ana-digital?) until I finally got sick of paying Omega $300+ every couple of years to service it. So, needing to replace it, and not having a clue about watches, I bought an Omega Seamaster Pro .. Yes, the blue dial & bezel model that I'd seen Pierce Brosnan wearing, so that dates the purchase to somewhere around 1998 / 99.

Omega Seamaster Professional, now known as the "Bond" watch
TST: The Seamaster is as good a place to start as any! It's becoming quite the modern classic, thanks to the James Bond connection and the amount of marketing push Omega did with it. What was the follow up to such a classic?

MWC: It took another couple of years until I made my next purchase, an Oris Worldtimer. This is where the problems really began – I realised I could own more than one watch, and you then discover you can own more than you have wrists for  …. And two quickly became a much bigger number. 

TST: Ahh yes the slippery slope that almost all watch collectors goes through and never really gets back up from. After that downward spiral, I find that a stage a lot of watch collectors seem to go through is one of buying junk. Would you say this is a stage you've gone through as well?

MWC: I've bought a lot of junk over the years - crappy Russian knock offs (not copies) of Navitimers, Chinese GMT II's and the like .. Most of which broke and weren’t worth repairing or were simply disposed of.

TST: Do you have any other regrets apart from buying junk?

MWC: The only collecting rabbit hole that I regret falling down for a little while was 24 hour dials – I had three or four at one stage, including a stunning early 60s' Navitimer Cosmonaute, but if you change watches every day they're impossible to read at a glance. They're the only watches I've ever sold.

TST: Now you could say that your dad's Omega kind of kick started your enthusiasm for watches- did the Omega thing stick?

MWC: I've got a good assortment of Omegas – the above mentioned Seamaster Pro, a 60s' gold 3 hand Seamaster, a Speedy with triple date, a gold (plated) 50s' triple date moon, a yellow Schumacher Speedy, and a 70s' Dynamic. Ignoring the cost of early pre-moon Speedys (I still borrow Dad's now and then) and some of the Flight Masters (currently high on my want list) I find Omegas good value compared to the other name Swiss brands.

TST: I believe you don't just stick to Swiss watches either?

MWC: Yes I have a good number of of 70s' Seiko chronos. My first real watch – at age 13 – was a Seiko 6139-7002, and I've added one to the box in the last year or two. I remember being so happy with my watch until a mate who was about 6 months younger got a Seiko LCD watch when he turned 13 (this would have been late '76) and all of a sudden those hands didn't look so good to me. But I'm guessing he hasn't tracked down a replacement of the watch he wore as a teenager


Seiko 6139-7002
I also have a couple of Seiko bullheads, and two or three other Seiko chronos of similar vintage. The designs appeal to me, and the fact that they're cheap (I typically pay $100 ~ $150 on eBay for them) & solid work horse watches make mean I can't see myself parting with them in a hurry. I've also got a few Seiko divers, including one I had modded – replacing the dial, hands and bezel. Again, I like them because I can't break them, and if I do, they're cheap to fix or replace.

TST: Something else that's also fairly tough and unbreakable, albeit at a price, is Rolex. However, this is a brand that polarizes people's opinions. Where do you stand on the Rolex issue?

MWC: It took me a long time to buy a Rolex, more because I didn't like the image of being a "rolex guy" (ie: a dentist) than for any other reason, but I've since fallen for them, with a Sub, a GMT II and an Explorer II all happily living in my watch box. The GMT II is my default travel watch – easy to change time zones, I can swim in it, and fine to wear either in a meeting or out for a night of drinking.


The current Rolex GMT Master II
TST: Rolex, Omega, Seiko- These are all very classic brands with classic watches. You can't go wrong with these. But did you veer off the 'safe' course and try something less well known or something more under-appreciated by the masses?

MWC:I bought a Maurice Lacroix Reviel Globe 7 or 8 years ago that saw a lot of wear – I used to call it my working watch: three time zones and an alarm, but the cost of replacing the strap ($350 - it's an odd size) has kept it in the box of late.  There are some other odds and ends: a Magrette diver (don't really like it any more), assorted low value 70s' divers, a Tissot Navigator chrono that is very hard to read (dial / hand colours are too close) and it needs a new "lobster" bracelet, a pocket watch, and a James Bond Seiko quartz something or other.

At the upper end of the collection is a Graham Oversize Chronofighter GMT Big Date (the name is almost as big as the watch) that I bought in HK maybe 4 years ago, and the spoilt princess of the watch box is a JLC Reverso GMT. The Reverso probably only spends a night a month on my wrist, but it's always wound and ready to go.


Assortment of watches, including a couple of Seiko Bullheads, Maurice Lacroix, Omega, Oris, and Reverso
Stay tuned for part 2 where the MWC talks about his foray into independent watchmaking....

Saturday, August 18, 2012

One-on-one with a Sydney watch collector Part 3

This is part 3 - the final part of our one-on-one interview with a Sydney watch collection. For previous parts see here for part 1 and here for part 2

TST: Do you believe that someone can have too many watches?

SWC: (long pause) Short answer yes with an if, long answer no with a but.

TST: (looks quizzically)

SWC: Yes you can have too many watches if you have limited funds. If you have other more important priorities. You need to keep in mind that this is a very expensive hobby and one that you should not engage in if you don't have the spare slush fund. Of course, there are many levels you can play at. A lot of people collect watches in the lower end of the price scale and there are a lot of fun to be had in this area. You can hunt for all sorts of weird and wonderful vintage watches from many brands that no longer exist. That turned out to be a very long answer... Maybe it's the other way around! So, no, you can never have enough watches if you gots the money! Plus, they don't take up much room, and you could pretty much take your whole watch collection with you in a fire, for example, but you can't take your antique car collection!

TST: Strap or Bracelet?

SWC: Strap. But believe it or not I used to be a firm bracelet guy, but once I found that straps are easily changed, and that by changing strap it gives your watch a completely new look, I've been a strap advocate ever since. It's astonishing just how much a strap can make or break a watch!

TST: If someone who knows nothing about watches but wanted to buy their first 'special' watch came to you and asked you for advice as to what to buy, with a budget of $1k max, what would you suggest?

SWC: Believe it or not, $1k can get you into some pretty decent watches. If you're after a mechanical watch, you do need to also budget for around $300-$500 for a full service every 5 years or so (service interval depends on how well you look after the watch - same as with cars). It is a lot of money to service a watch, so you do need to keep that in mind. Having said that, there are quite a few routes you can go for the that first special watch, but I think also that for the first watch, it needs to be a bit versatile, ie, best to get a watch you can dress up or down.

If you don't mind going 2nd hand, there are plenty of really nice Longines or Oris watches that'll come under $1k quite easily. There's always Aussie's favourite luxury watch, a Tag Heuer. If you want to avoid clashing watches with someone else, why not try something German? You can easily get an Archimede or a Steinhart for well under $1k, and they're excellent watches too, great value for money. However, as there are no authorised retailers/service centres here in Australia for these brands, getting something done under guarantee may take more of an effort on your part. But I still think it's well worth it.

Archimede Pilot Chronograph
But always do your homework. Don't get too carried away on the "brand". Don't rush into it. Think twice before getting a "fashion" branded watch for $1k. Believe me, you can, but really, don't. Try the watches on if you can. See how it sits on the wrist. Don't just go off specs on a piece of paper, because different 40mm watches will wear quite differently depending on the design. Most of all, buy something that really sings to you. Something you love, and not something only to 'show off' to others, as ultimately, you're the one that's going to be wearing the watch, so you'll need to really love it.

In fact, put some funds aside to get a couple of really nice straps. They don't have to be from the same brand as the watch. Just as long as they fit. You can get a very good leather strap for around $100. A couple of these will add versatility to the look of your watch, and you can even match it to different occassions, outfits, etc.

Straps can add to the look of the watch, and putting a new strap on a watch makes it feel like a brand new watch again

TST: Considering that you have been collecting, well, admiring watches for more than a decade, you must have a refined taste in what sort of watches you like. So, what do you look for in a watch?

SWC: I do know my own taste a little better than I did 10 years ago. I guess I'm not really into high complications, not least because I can't afford it anyway! But the main thing I look for is balance and symmetry in the design of the watch. If something that should be balanced and symmetrical, but isn't, that really bugs me. For example, I'm not a big fan of the date window at the 3:00 position because that causes unbalance issues, but it's a minor thing, and the date window at 3 is kind of a traditional placement. Having said that, some really good designs can incorporate the date window at 3 and still make the whole dial look balanced.

If you have to be assymetrical, then really go nuts, but dials can still be balanced and assymetrical at the same time.

TST: Ahh.. you're one of those symmetrical freaks!

SWC: Yeah. the ultimate pet peeve is the numbers/markings on the subdials on a tri-compax chrono. For example, when the watch designer could easily have the 0-20-40 on one side and 10-20-30 on the other and they instead use 0-15-30-45, that just really bugs me. One really good example is the Rolex Daytona. When they had the zenith movement, the subdials were perfect. Then they ruined everything when they switched to their own inhouse chrono. Not only the numbering, but they even moved the subdials at 3 and slightly above the central alignment just so it's harder to fake? Come on. Faking that is easy. Making the watch look slightly off just to ward of fakes? *Shakes head*

But if you look at the Omega Speedmaster Professional, that is a perfect example of how to do a well balanced, symmetrical dial that is timeless and classic. I'm not surprised that it's still doing so well and they haven't touched the design... much.

Omega Speedmaster Professional Cal. 321
TST: And that's the one you'd rather have?

SWC: And I do!

TST: And on that bombshell, we'll end it there. Thank you for your time!

Wednesday, July 18, 2012

One-on-one with a Sydney watch collector Part 2


Exclusive one-on-one interview with a Sydney Watch Collector Pt 2
Previous part is here

TST: There are a numerous collectors out there who swears by mechanical movements only, and would not touch a quartz watch with a 10 foot pole. Where do you stand on quartz?

SWC: I'm one of those non-discriminatory watch fanatics. I have absolutely nothing against quartz watches. I do have issues with brands charging ridiculous money for quartz. I'm sure your readers will know perfectly well that in terms of accuracy, nothing beats quartz. But there's quartz, and there's quartz. Some quartz movements are nothing short of amazing as well, believe it or not. For example, Citizen has this super quartz watch with a thermocompensated movement that is accurate to +/- 5 seconds a YEAR! These movements are also hand assembled and what not. The brilliant Seiko Spring Drive brings together the best of mechanical and quartz technology, so to lump all quartz watches into one category is a bit unfair. For me personally, I have numerous quartz watches- Sometimes it's just really convenient to pick up a watch and go- I have a few Casio G-Shocks, and a number of Swatches that are quartz.

TST: But most of your watches are mechanical, correct?

SWC: Yes.

TST: Why is that?

SWC: I really admire the craftsmanship that's gone into a movement. You have all these really tiny springs and cogs and wheels, all working together in such a tight tolerance, and it's able to do this day in, day out, with no problems for years on end, whilst keeping pretty accurate time! And it's all mechanical! I find that so amazing. And then there's these high complication watches with 4-500 parts within the movement, all crammed into such a tiny space, it's simply mind blowing! To be honest I'm surprised these things don't break down more often!

TST: So out of all your watches which one is your favourite?

SWC: I love all my children equally.

TST: Fine. There must be some that you tend to pick up to wear more often than others?

SWC: I go through phases. For example, right now I'm wearing my G-Shocks quite often. They're not the high end solar powered radio linked super G shocks, but the more basic ones you can get. I think they're just such great value for money though, I mean you're getting an extremely tough watch, with perpetual calendar, world time zone, stop watch and timer, alarm and what have you- all for about $200. Plus the battery life on these are amazing! I think one of my G-Shocks must have lasted at least 5 years, and that is with constant use and abuse, and who knows how long the battery's been in the watch before I had it!



TST: The G Shock is very casual. What would be your current pick if you had to 'suit up'?

SWC: I have a Tissot Le Locle, which is really nice, very dressy and elegant, great proportions and perfectly balanced design- I really love this watch. Such great value for money as well. It'll easily pass for watches costing 10 times more, and it'll keep just as good a time, since it's powered by a reliable ETA 2824 'workhorse' movement. It's also relatively thin, so it'll fit under the cuff no problems. What I would do, is put a decent alligator strap on it. The calf with fake alligator grain strap it comes with does NOT do it justice.


On the other end of the scale, is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master World Geo. The dial is probably a little too busy for a dress watch, but it's all useful busy, not busy for the sake of being busy. The world time is a really useful function for me, as I do need to speak to people in other countries at times, and at one glance I can see exactly what time it is in any of the 24 time zones.



TST: Just to play Devil's advocate - doesn't your phone tell you that?

SWC: Yeah but what's the fun in that? But it is a good question. Everything has a time on it these days and a smart phone can tell you pretty much anything that your watch can possibly tell you, so why bother with a watch? Some wear watches as their jewelly, some as status symbol, to show off, but I like to think I'm part of a secret society - in that only people in the know will truly appreciate what you have on the wrist. There is a sense of excitement when you see someone with a true classic, or something that's quite obscure or underappreciated, you know that they also share this 'secret'. And I suppose...  the secret handshake is that knowing nod,  the subtle acknowledgement.

TST: From what you've just said, I'm guessing you don't really like the so-called "mainstream" watches?

SWC: Yeah... you could say that. I mean, a classic is still a classic, and I have a number of classics, such as the Omega Speedmaster "moon watch" I mean, the design on this has not changed for more than 50 years and it's as fresh today as it was 50 years ago, and I will most likely get a Rolex Submariner or a Sea Dweller just because. But I do prefer to have something that not many others have.


TST: Such as...?

SWC: Ok.. I'll pick the more obscure ones-


1. 70s (I think) Seiko Manual. Got this on the cheap. All I needed to do was to get it serviced and put a strap on. It's just so different and funky!



2. Fortis IQ watch Rolf Sachs. The case and movement is nothing special, but I really liked the dial! All the 'chalk' part glows at night too- even the smudges. When I first saw a picture of this, I knew immediately I had to have it...



3. Nike Triax Chrono - This I also got on the cheap - seems like it didn't sell very well, and I'm not surprised. The customer that would buy a Nike watch would probably pick a digital over this one. I love the organic shape and the fact that it's an analogue chronograph! It's so not Nike and that's part of the charm.



4. Omega Speedmaster Split Second- This one is so ugly that it's got such character. Completely unbalanced, and extremely thick and chunky, again, not a watch that sold well. This one sat in the dealer for a very long time till I brought it home. Obviously rare since I've had a couple of half decent watch retailers asking me if it was fake cuz they ain't never seen one. I don't have it any more and I think given the chance I'll most likely buy it back.





The third and final part of this interview will be up shortly!

Tuesday, June 26, 2012

One-on-one with a Sydney watch collector Part 1


One of the most common questions asked of watch enthuisasts is 'why watches?', so for both those who are already into watches, and those who are puzzled by the whole thing, we thought we'd have a one-on-one interview about this, and many other things, with a local long time collector. He wishes to be anonymous and will be known simply as 'Sydney Watch Collector' (SWC).


TheSydneyTarts: Thank you for joining me today.
SydneyWatchCollector: No worries. It's my pleasure.

TST: Let's start with an obvious one. How did you get started in watch collecting? Why watches?
SWC: To be honest I wouldn't really call myself a watch collector. I don't 'collect' watches so to speak. I buy watches (and I sell them). There is no theme nor a structure to my 'collection'. So, I'd say I'm more of a person with an abnormal appreciation for watches! Having said that, I think my interest in watches began when I was selling them, as my first job out of uni. There were a lot of down time, so I read up on watches to pass time and also to know more about them so I would be a better sales person. The more I read, the more I became fascinated with them, Then I discovered watch forums on the internet, and that was the beginning of my downward spiral. It began cheap - with a Swatch Irony Chrono which I still have, followed by a Longines, then straight into the deep end (at the time) with a purchase of a watch for over 4 figures.


The Swatch Irony chrono. It originally came on a bracelet, but has been swapped onto a strap




TST: Now you mentioned that you also sell. Are there watches that are off limits, or is nothing sacred?
SWC: I tend to hold on to watches that has a story attached to them. For example, that first Swatch Irony I still have. Although I don't really wear it any more, to me that watch was the start of my watch obsession, and it's the first watch I bought for myself (all the watches I've had before this one were all mostly el cheapos that were given to me). That first watch over 4 figures, also had a great story, and another one of my earliest acquistions, a Fortis chronograph I bought in New York, also had great stories to it too. So, watches like these I will keep. It's not a strict rule, but generally speaking those are the ones I keep. Well... there are also other ones that I keep simply because I can't sell them, unless I take a huge hit on the price!


The Fortis bought in New York. It was also the first automatic chrono in the collection. SWC feels he paid too much for this




TST: So it sounds like you have sold watches that had stories attached to them? (SWC nods) Do you regret selling any of them?
SWC: I like to think I only buy watches I like, so it's always very difficult to sell. There are various reasons for selling, of course. It could be because I needed the money to fund another purchase (usually a step up in price) or maybe because my tastes have changed. At other times it has been purely strategic, or taking advantage of an opportunity. But don't get me wrong. I don't buy watches to sell. All the watches I've bought were with the intention to keep. There are people out there that treat watches as an investment. It's not really. At best it's speculation. With watches you need to have the understanding that you WILL lose money on this. In extremely rare cases you make money, but let's just say if I break even over all on this hobby I'm laughing. But I digress. Back to your question, I don't regret selling any of my watches. It's difficult to decide to sell, but once it's gone, it's gone. I've had the opportunity to own it, and it's time for someone else to enjoy that ownership.

TST: Talking about regrets, are there watches that you regret buying?
SWC: Oh where do I begin!!! Since I was new to this whole thing I've been learning and as you learn, you make mistakes. Mind you I'm still learning and making mistakes in this watch thing. The worst ones would have to be the two Invicta watches I bought. I went through a phase when I thought as long as the movement is good, doesn't matter what the brand is. Less well known brand means cheaper prices for good movements, ja? How wrong was I! The quality was shocking and it was so hard to try to offload them. I still have one of them. The only saving grace is that now I have a perfectly good Valjoux 7750 movement that I'm planning to do a project watch on. When that'll happen I have no idea.


One of the Invictas. SWC believes that it's not bad looking, just poor quality. The dial says "Invicta-matic" but when you look through the case back that it's not "matic" of any sort... 




TST: So you've made some 'shocking' purchasing decisions. What would be your 'best' buy, or the purchases you were most happy with?
SWC: Two come to mind. One is the Omega Deville Co-axial chronograph and the other, much more recent, is the Swatch Automatic Chrono. Not only did I manage to get both pieces at really good prices, both watches are significant milestones in each brand's history. The Deville Chrono is Omega's first co-axial chronograph movement. This is the one they had quite a fair bit of issues with in the beginning and if you search the forums for issues on the Omega 33xx calibres, you'll find posts to last you many, many nights of bedtime reading. The Swatch auto chrono is Swatch's very first automatic chronograph. It's a new bargain basement auto chrono from ETA loosely based on the classic Lemania 5100 and exclusive to Swatch and Tissot so far.


Omega DeVille Co-Axial Chronograph


Swatch automatic chrono




TST: Do you have a 'grail watch'?
SWC: The term 'grail watch' has been bandied about too much it's lost all meaning. For me, the 'grail' is something that is almost un-gettable. It should be something that I would be willing to give up all the watches I have, just to obtain it. It would be the watch to end all watches. The one watch that I would be happy with for the rest of my life. So... no. I don't subscribe to the view that once you 'get' your 'grail' watch you move on to the 'next' grail.

TST: So in light of this, what's on your shopping list?
SWC: My shopping list right now:
  • Omega Seamaster GMT "Great White" 
  • AP Royal Oak 15300ST 
  • Dornbluth & Sohne 99.1 
  • PAM 372 
  • IWC Portuguese 7 Days 
and pending a real life sighting, Tudor Pelagos.

TST: That is a very diverse list!
SWC: I like a bit of variety. There is something good from everyone, so I don't want to limit to just a particular brand or style.

Stay tuned for part 2: Join us as SWC shares with us some of his favourites from his collection.