It's been just over a year since our first top 10 Swiss/German mechanical/automatic watches under $1000 was published and the response was overwhelming! We had no idea so many people were interested in high quality mechanical watches under $1000 and that this figure seemed to have really struck a chord. So one year one, we have decided to come up with an updated list of our top 10 Swiss/German mechanical/automatic watches under $1000.
A number of things have changed. firstly, the AUD isn't where it used to be. This meant a couple of watches that were under are now over, so they were excluded. There were also a few watches that people felt weren't really properly Swiss or German, so this year, we have stricter rules and definitions. To be included in this year's list, the watch MUST have either "Swiss Made" or "Made In Germany" on the dial.
German watches again takes up 50% of the slots, but not only that, the watches are so well priced that you could almost buy 2 for $1000. Funnily enough all of the German watches runs Swiss movements! And on with the list:
Steinhart Le Mans GT Automatic - 412 Euro (excl. VAT)
For this year I have chosen Le Mans GT automatic, as it is another of their in-house designs. It's pretty darn obvious from the name and the style what they were going for in this watch. For the price you get an elaboree grade ETA2824-2 movement, and amazing dial detailing AND case detailing. (Spoke of the alloy wheel on the dial, case is the tyre, with tyre grooves on the side of the case and strap, and the case back is the disc brake!) Granted this watch isn't for everyone, but for a motor racing fan, I think it's a must have. You can buy direct from their website.
http://www.steinhartwatches.de/en/Le-Mans-GT-automatic,559.html
Stowa Ikarus - from 488 Euro (excl. VAT)
The Ikarus is a stunning looking watch drawing on pilot watch design cues, but with a matte finished grey dial (apparently from galvanisation) and a subtle date window at 6:00. The layout is classic and with a diametre at 40mm, also extremely wearable. The Stowa case quality is top notch (a step above Steinhart) and it is powered by ETA2824-2. You have the option of upgrading a number of items on the watch for extra dough, direct from their website.
http://www.stowa.de/
Archimede Pilot 42 Automatic - 399 euro (excl. VAT)
On the list for the second year running- their prices have gone up a little bit, but still extremely good value.
One thing Archimede is famous for is the watch case. Their cases are made by Ickler, (who also produces watches under several other brands) and you know when I said the case is good for Steinhart at the price? Well, Archimede watch cases take it to an entirely different plane. I'd rate them alongside many of the bigger 'prestige' brands. Which makes their pilot watch, a pinch at 399 euros, steal of the century.That is, of course, if you like pilot watches. They do have other models in the range, but I think their Pilot line is the most successful. And everyone needs a Pilot watch in their collection, right? It's a classic that'll never go out of style. If you can afford it, for an extra 20 euro, you get a sterile dial ie, no branding, and that gives it a very clean look. And like a decent German car, you can also spend lots optioning up the watch with such luxury items as curved sapphire, custom engraving, bracelet etc. This is also available direct from their website.
http://www.archimede-uhren.de/archimede-uhren-kollektion-pilot-deckwatch-klassik-taucher-outdoor-automatik-handaufzug-chronograph-2824-6498-7750/pilot-automatik-2824-handaufzug-6498-chronograph-7750-b-uhr-fliegeruhr/pilot-42-automatik-fliegeruhr-b-uhr-eta-2824.html
Defakto Akkord - from 420 euro
On the list for the 2nd year in a row, we still love the styling and the pricing.
Their watches are also made by Ickler, so you know the case quality is top notch. But the Defakto brand itself enploys very minimalistic, bauhaus inspired designs. Perfect for those who are sick of paragraphs printed on dials. The Akkord is more traditional with 2 hands, (but you can also get 1-handed watches for that extra minimalistic look) and powered by ETA 2824. Available direct from their website. Like their sister brand, Archimede, you can also choose your customisation for the watch for extra dough.
http://www.defakto-uhren.de/en/configurator/
Max Bill by Junghans Manual - USD853
The last German watch on the list, it's their first appearance on the Tart's top 10. The watch style is bauhaus minimalistic, and it is a small diametre watch (at 34mm). However, as the watch is all dial and no bezel, it does wear bigger and it's great for someone looking for a dressy, understated watch. The height of the watch is only 8.8mm, which is really quite thin and will easily fit under the cuffs. The watch is powered by ETA2801-2 (essentially a 2824 without the rotor) and available direct from the website.
http://www.maxbillwatches.com/junghans-bill-mechanical-027370000-p-10.html
Christopher Ward C5 Malvern Auto/C8 Pilot Mk II Vintage - 396 Pounds
Yes another variation on the pilot watch. What can I say? It's a classic design! Chris Ward is an English brand with watches made in Switzerland. Their watches aren't bad at all, and should be considered if you can get over the awkward branding. CHRWARD just looks awkward.... The watch is powered by Sellita SW200-1 (essentially a 2824 clone) meaning you're not likely to have any issues. A lot of the bigger brands are switching over teo Sellita as ETA slowly decreases supplies to brands outside the swatchgroup and Sellita takes over the slack. You can get them direct from their website
http://www.christopherward.co.uk/men/aviation/c8-svkt-mk2.html
Mondaine Automatic - 439 Pounds (Maybe VAT back...)
Mondaine are known for being the Swiss railway clock. The distinctive dial is highly legible and can be accurately read at a distance, thanks to its high contrast colours and simplicity. In 1986 this design was interpreted into the wristwatch form and they haven't looked back since. Most Mondaine watches are quartz, but they do have a small collection of automatic watches, aptly named "automatic". They come in 40mm case diametre and are powered by the Sellita S220-1 with day-date functions. See the watch here and maybe purchased here:
http://www.jurawatches.co.uk/collections/mondaine-watches/products/mondaine-automatic-day-date-a132-30348-11sbb-watch-md-103
The final 3 watches on the list are all part of the giant conglomerate the swatchgroup. Being big has its advantages- price advantages. They are able to offer extremely good value and the following are just the tip of the iceberg.
Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto 38mm USD870
To be honest, this watch just might have the best bang-for-your-bux at the under $1000 category. It is the only watch powered by the ETA 2892-A2 movement, and this is a much more "premium" movement compared to the ETWA 2824-2. Nothing wrong with the 2824. Mind you, it's probably one of the most reliable, but you generally don't see the 2892 fitted to watches under $1000. Keep in mind that the same basic movement is used in Omega as Calibre 1120, and was also used as a base for the very first versions of Omega's co-axial movement, the Calibre 2500. This Hamilton, although only 38mm in diametre, it wears much bigger thanks to its all-dial-and-no-bezel design. It really really is a shame that Hamilton isn't sold in Australia. I'm sure they'll do extremely well here.
Tissot Heritage Visodate from 2012 USD650
The Visodate is inspired by 50s Tissot watches of the same name and it really is a great modern interpretation of a classic. For those who must have both the day and the date on display, this is a great watch. Go with the white dial though. I can't stand the day/date disc being in different colours to the dial. Just can't. I also really like the ye-olde-style Tissot logo on the dial. Powered by the ETA 2836-2 (Basically day-date version of the ETA2824) you can't go wrong and it's a gorgeous classic looking watch. I'd take this one if you can't get your hands on the Hamilton.
Swatch Automatic - $220 (at your local friendly Swatch retailer/boutique)
There are plenty of Swatch Irony automatics you can choose from, and seriously? If you want something Swiss, automatic, and in steel, and don't have a big watch budget, this truly is the way to go. And yes, you can service these and yes, a great watchmaker will be able to regulate the watch to within COSC accuracy (ie -4 to +6 seconds a day), and yes, really for around $220 Aussie. I'll be honest, there won't be much (if at all) of those old-dude-in-a-white-lab-coat involved in the making of this watch, but really... I don't think that's a factor at this price point...
Hopefully this list have introduced you to some watches that might now be up for consideration, and it's actually really not that pricey to get into a proper Swiss/German mechanical watch. My picks of the bunch would be the Hamilton for dress watch and the Archimede for the sports watch. C'mon. You can't have just the one watch. Seriously. It just won't work. Same as you can't have just the one knife.
Showing posts with label Tissot. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tissot. Show all posts
Friday, December 6, 2013
Top 10 Best Swiss/German Mechanical/Automatic watches under $1000 UPDATE: 2013
Labels:
Archimede,
Christopher Ward,
Defakto,
Flieger,
German watches,
Hamilton,
Junghans,
Max Bill,
Mondaine,
Pilot watches,
Steinhart,
Stowa,
Swatch,
Tissot,
watches
Thursday, June 20, 2013
NBA Finals Players and Watches
As we head into Game 7 of the NBA finals between San Antonio Spurs and Miami Heat, why don't we have a quick look at the players' wrists and see what sort of wrist jewellery are present, other than those weird rubber straps that's meant to emit some sort of energy frequency to make you perform better. Right. And just so happens some of the players from both teams in the finals have pretty decent watch endorsement contracts in place.
Representing the Heat:
LeBron James with his Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore.
Dwayane Wade with his Hublot King Power Dwayane Wade
and of course, the Miami Heat themselves have a watch too- The King Power Miami Heat.
Representing the Spurs:
Tony Parker with his... Tissot..
Let's get back to Hublot and AP. Hublot has also signed up the Black Mamba himself, Kobe Bryant as an ambassador, and AP did used to have Shaq on their watches. Shaq, on the other hand wore a Swatch before he was signed by AP. Quite the step up. Perhaps there is still time for Tony to upgrade...
Representing the Heat:
LeBron James with his Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore.
Dwayane Wade with his Hublot King Power Dwayane Wade
and of course, the Miami Heat themselves have a watch too- The King Power Miami Heat.
Representing the Spurs:
Tony Parker with his... Tissot..
Let's get back to Hublot and AP. Hublot has also signed up the Black Mamba himself, Kobe Bryant as an ambassador, and AP did used to have Shaq on their watches. Shaq, on the other hand wore a Swatch before he was signed by AP. Quite the step up. Perhaps there is still time for Tony to upgrade...
| Kobe Bryant's Hublot |
| Swatch Shaq - image from Squiggly.com |
| Shaq Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore |
Friday, May 31, 2013
Top 10 Reasonably Priced watches from Baselworld 2013
You would've already seen/read quite a number of "top 10" lists from Baselworld 2013. But the problem with these lists is that they're quite often without rhyme or reason. Put all the watches on the dartboard and you too can come up with a similar top ten list.
This is why you've come to the Sydney tarts. I didn't put together a top ten list earlier (even though I could have) to cash in on the rush, but then there would be no point. I wanted to think through the choices, not not just most hyped/popular pieces. I didn't want to do a list just because. The list need to serve a purpose.
Granted the list is not exhaustive as Baselworld is massively huge and since I'm not there personally I can only rely on press releases and coverage from people who have made the trek. But out of all that I've seen, I believe these are the best 10 watches from Baselworld this year that are affordable. Relatively speaking. It's easy to cram in ten dozen complications into a watch and charge six figures for it. The problem is that most of us will never ever see them in the flesh let along truly appreciate them as they should be appreciated. Ie, strapped to the wrist. I believe that it is much more difficult to make a truly desirable watch at an affordable price point.
For this top ten list I have set a price ceiling of $5000 as this seems to be the upper limit of what a "reasonable" person will be willing to spend on a good watch. However, majority of the watches on the list cost much less. I've tried to find pricing info for all the watches. Where pricing is not available I've done my best to guesstimate. The list is not in any order.
1. Tissot Luxury Automatic
USD850 on strap, USD895 on bracelet
Beautifully designed. Simple and elegant. With an in-group movement to boot (I say in-group as the Powermatic 80 movement is also used in Certina watches) this Tissot is extremely great value for money. Gorgeous case work, stunning dial, this dress watch delivers in spades. The 80 hour power reserve is very practical, as you can take it off Friday evening after work, and it'll still be running when it goes back on your wrist Monday morning. At 41mm in diametre it is quite wearable and as usual, for an extra $45, get the bracelet variant then stick the watch on a strap if you feel like it to give it that extra dressy look/feel. This watch makes the Fossil way overpriced...
2.Frederique Constant Slimline Moonphase
From 2650 Euro
We've already raved about the watch here. Not much else to add, really. Just a really really beautiful watch with an in-house movement at a great, great price. It's definitely on my shopping list.
3. Mondaine Vintage II Automatic
950 CHF
The classic Swiss railway watch, with a great automatic movement (ETA 2892-A2) at a great price. This is for all those movement snobs who just can't bring themselves to getting the quartz version of the classic Mondaine. But you might have to be quick as these are limited to only 500 pieces worldwide.
4. Hamilton Khaki Pilot Pioneer Automatic Chronograph
USD 1845
Good thing about Hamilton with the might of the swatchgroup behind them is that they are able to offer brilliant watches for very low outlay. I think ETA is also doing more customising for each of the brands within the swatchgroup now that they don't have to produce massive amounts of movements for the rest of the Swiss watch industry. This watch gets a modified Valjoux 7753 to a bi-compax layout and an increased 60-hour power reserve. It's a very well done modernisation of a classic 70s Khaki pilot with the case size updated to a still-versatile 41mm. One small gripe. WHY THE DATE WINDOW???
5. Mühle-Glashütte Teutonia II Tag Datum
From 1790 Euro
This is another clean, simple and elegant dress watch, and great for someone who wants something outside the Swiss Made repertoire. Perfectly symmetrical and balanced dial with day at 12 and date at 6 and powered by a Sellita movement (which is, ahem, Swiss). At least the name is a mouthful, and passer-bys wouldn't have a clue what it is. And that is exactly what you want. Otherwise you would have gone for the Tissot...
6. Alpina 130 Heritage Chrono
Guesstimate $3000
A lot of brands are celebrating anniversaries this year eh? Swatch is 30, Alpina is 130, Tissot is 160, Jaeger-LeCoultre is 180... Anyway I digress. Again, this is another watch we raved about. The more I look at it the more in love I am with the watch. Just goes to show you can make a fantastic looking watch with a great movement (looks like a modded Valjoux 7753) for not a lot of money. And many brands from Basel are doing just that- great value for money is definitely another trend we're seeing.
7. Sinn T1/T2
Approx. 3000 CHF
The ultimate tool watch. The weapon of choice for those of you whom the watch is actually used than babied. This is definitely not a safe queen since that would be just a waste. You can read the in-depth here on Horologium, but the two watches are essentially the same, just differ in their sizes, and you can choose from a leather strap, rubber strap or a bracelet. Extremely legible, by day or by night, and the updated case also makes it much more comfortable on the wrist.
8. Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver
2900 CHF
Maurice Lacroix is a highly underrated watch brand and they deserve to be more noticed. This watch could do the trick. It is a proper diver's watch with a compressor case, similar to the style used by Longines in their Legend Diver. Comes with an internal rotating bezel as well as a helium escape valve. Although how often desk divers uses this is up for debate. This is another watch with a very clean dial, the date at 6 makes it more symmetrical, although I would've preferred a white on black date wheel. Powered by a Sellita movement (ETA 2824 clone) it's bound to be highly reliable, and can be had on a soft nato style leather strap or a bracelet.
9. Bell & Ross 123 Sport Vintage
Guesstimate $2800
That's right Bell & Ross makes watches other than those funky square cockpit instrument watches. Even if that's what they're known for these days. The 123 Sport Vintage is a welcome addition to the range, complete with a vintage look/style. It pays homage to the sports watch style of the 60s and I think they've done a brilliant job. Yes there is a date window but at least it's quite subtle, so I don't mind it and it doesn't detract from an otherwise clean dial with great legibility. Instant classic powered by the venerable ETA 2892 movement. There is also a limited edition "Falcon" version of said watch named after the Dassault Aviation model. Based on the pricing of the B&R 123 Original, I'm going to take a stab in the dark and guess the Sport Vintage will retail around about $2800
10. Tudor Heritage Chrono Blue
4200 CHF
The final piece on this list is also the most expensive. Even then it's still a relative bargain. I actually prefer the blue version from this year over the previous black/grey/orange version from a few years back. Partly because I don't have a blue themed watch, but I also think it looks cleaner. The quality should match the previous model, meaning it's very well made. Movement is an ETA 2892 with a chrono module, but you wouldn't pick it from the outside as the pushers and the crown lines up perfectly (module chrono movements tend to have the pushers on a different plane to the crown as the module sits on top). I believe this movement is exclusive to Tudor. And yes, I'm going to mention the dial and date window position. It's perfect. The dial is extremely clean (especially when compared to its big brother's tendency to write paragraphs on the dial, and the repetition of the name in case you forget...)
This is why you've come to the Sydney tarts. I didn't put together a top ten list earlier (even though I could have) to cash in on the rush, but then there would be no point. I wanted to think through the choices, not not just most hyped/popular pieces. I didn't want to do a list just because. The list need to serve a purpose.
Granted the list is not exhaustive as Baselworld is massively huge and since I'm not there personally I can only rely on press releases and coverage from people who have made the trek. But out of all that I've seen, I believe these are the best 10 watches from Baselworld this year that are affordable. Relatively speaking. It's easy to cram in ten dozen complications into a watch and charge six figures for it. The problem is that most of us will never ever see them in the flesh let along truly appreciate them as they should be appreciated. Ie, strapped to the wrist. I believe that it is much more difficult to make a truly desirable watch at an affordable price point.
For this top ten list I have set a price ceiling of $5000 as this seems to be the upper limit of what a "reasonable" person will be willing to spend on a good watch. However, majority of the watches on the list cost much less. I've tried to find pricing info for all the watches. Where pricing is not available I've done my best to guesstimate. The list is not in any order.
1. Tissot Luxury Automatic
USD850 on strap, USD895 on bracelet
Beautifully designed. Simple and elegant. With an in-group movement to boot (I say in-group as the Powermatic 80 movement is also used in Certina watches) this Tissot is extremely great value for money. Gorgeous case work, stunning dial, this dress watch delivers in spades. The 80 hour power reserve is very practical, as you can take it off Friday evening after work, and it'll still be running when it goes back on your wrist Monday morning. At 41mm in diametre it is quite wearable and as usual, for an extra $45, get the bracelet variant then stick the watch on a strap if you feel like it to give it that extra dressy look/feel. This watch makes the Fossil way overpriced...
2.Frederique Constant Slimline Moonphase
From 2650 Euro
We've already raved about the watch here. Not much else to add, really. Just a really really beautiful watch with an in-house movement at a great, great price. It's definitely on my shopping list.
3. Mondaine Vintage II Automatic
950 CHF
The classic Swiss railway watch, with a great automatic movement (ETA 2892-A2) at a great price. This is for all those movement snobs who just can't bring themselves to getting the quartz version of the classic Mondaine. But you might have to be quick as these are limited to only 500 pieces worldwide.
4. Hamilton Khaki Pilot Pioneer Automatic Chronograph
USD 1845
Good thing about Hamilton with the might of the swatchgroup behind them is that they are able to offer brilliant watches for very low outlay. I think ETA is also doing more customising for each of the brands within the swatchgroup now that they don't have to produce massive amounts of movements for the rest of the Swiss watch industry. This watch gets a modified Valjoux 7753 to a bi-compax layout and an increased 60-hour power reserve. It's a very well done modernisation of a classic 70s Khaki pilot with the case size updated to a still-versatile 41mm. One small gripe. WHY THE DATE WINDOW???
5. Mühle-Glashütte Teutonia II Tag Datum
From 1790 Euro
This is another clean, simple and elegant dress watch, and great for someone who wants something outside the Swiss Made repertoire. Perfectly symmetrical and balanced dial with day at 12 and date at 6 and powered by a Sellita movement (which is, ahem, Swiss). At least the name is a mouthful, and passer-bys wouldn't have a clue what it is. And that is exactly what you want. Otherwise you would have gone for the Tissot...
6. Alpina 130 Heritage Chrono
Guesstimate $3000
A lot of brands are celebrating anniversaries this year eh? Swatch is 30, Alpina is 130, Tissot is 160, Jaeger-LeCoultre is 180... Anyway I digress. Again, this is another watch we raved about. The more I look at it the more in love I am with the watch. Just goes to show you can make a fantastic looking watch with a great movement (looks like a modded Valjoux 7753) for not a lot of money. And many brands from Basel are doing just that- great value for money is definitely another trend we're seeing.
7. Sinn T1/T2
Approx. 3000 CHF
The ultimate tool watch. The weapon of choice for those of you whom the watch is actually used than babied. This is definitely not a safe queen since that would be just a waste. You can read the in-depth here on Horologium, but the two watches are essentially the same, just differ in their sizes, and you can choose from a leather strap, rubber strap or a bracelet. Extremely legible, by day or by night, and the updated case also makes it much more comfortable on the wrist.
8. Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver
2900 CHF
Maurice Lacroix is a highly underrated watch brand and they deserve to be more noticed. This watch could do the trick. It is a proper diver's watch with a compressor case, similar to the style used by Longines in their Legend Diver. Comes with an internal rotating bezel as well as a helium escape valve. Although how often desk divers uses this is up for debate. This is another watch with a very clean dial, the date at 6 makes it more symmetrical, although I would've preferred a white on black date wheel. Powered by a Sellita movement (ETA 2824 clone) it's bound to be highly reliable, and can be had on a soft nato style leather strap or a bracelet.
9. Bell & Ross 123 Sport Vintage
Guesstimate $2800
| The 123 Sport Heritage is the one on the left |
10. Tudor Heritage Chrono Blue
4200 CHF
The final piece on this list is also the most expensive. Even then it's still a relative bargain. I actually prefer the blue version from this year over the previous black/grey/orange version from a few years back. Partly because I don't have a blue themed watch, but I also think it looks cleaner. The quality should match the previous model, meaning it's very well made. Movement is an ETA 2892 with a chrono module, but you wouldn't pick it from the outside as the pushers and the crown lines up perfectly (module chrono movements tend to have the pushers on a different plane to the crown as the module sits on top). I believe this movement is exclusive to Tudor. And yes, I'm going to mention the dial and date window position. It's perfect. The dial is extremely clean (especially when compared to its big brother's tendency to write paragraphs on the dial, and the repetition of the name in case you forget...)
Thursday, May 9, 2013
Baselworld 2013 - A Tale Of Two Squelettes
If you're after a skeleton watch, with a diametre of 43mm, powered by a 17 jewel, 18,000vph manual wind movement with a power reserve of around about 45 hours, well, you're in luck! At Baselworld 2013, you have 2 to choose from, depending on the thickness of your wallet. It's been a right royal pain to find pricing information this early on, so I am taking educated guesstimates on them.
First up, we have an offering from Maurice Lacroix - The Masterpiece Squelette Manual Wind. This is based on the ETA6497 movement, but re-branded to caliber ML134. The skeletonisation is beautifully done, and featuring grand colimaçon (spiraled) decoration and sandblasting on the main bridge, in black or rose gold PVD execution. If the price for previous skeleton watches from ML are any indication, I'd hazard a guess and call this at around the $8000 mark.
If that's too much to swallow, how about this offering from Tissot, The T-Complication Squelette? Obviously the finishing is not as nicely done as the ML, but the Tissot does have that industrial feel to it, and I'm sure that will appeal to some more than the fancier ML finishing. Exactly the same basic movement, so I guess some of that extra $$$ could be allocated to the finishing work done on the movement (Labour intensive = more $$$) I'm going to guesstimate the Tissot at around $2000. Not bad for one quarter the price of the ML. Not bad at all.
| Maurice Lacroix |
| Maurice Lacroix |
| Tissot |
| Tissot |
Sunday, December 9, 2012
Top 10 Swiss/German Watches Under $500
Having just done a top 10 watches under $1000 led me to think that there are a lot other nice watches that can be had for much less, yet are still Swiss/German made. I'm of course referring to quartz watches and although a lot of watch aficionados won't touch quartz with a ten foot pole... like a close friend, I'm also not a quartz Nazi "NO QUARTZ FOR YOU!!" so if there is a nice quartz watch I'd wear it.
Generally speaking a quartz watch can be had for a lot less than their mechanical counterpart, so I've placed a ceiling of $500. And if you would just like a nice watch, don't really care about what makes it tick, but you don't really want just another 'fashion' brand, you've come to the right place. May I present to you my top ten choice for quartz watches. (AUD500, USD500, EUR400, GBP320)
Again, as before, the criteria for this selection of watches are:
Swiss/German made
Quartz movement
Available in reasonable quantities
And - quite important - that these are all watches I would personally buy/wear.
I've also tried to avoid fashion branded watches and big companies, focusing on more interesting deisgns/executions or watches that simply looks much more expensive than they are. The idea is to show that there are some amazing quartz watches out there that may not be well know, but well deserving of your wrist time.
I'm not including the Seikos, Citizens, Casios, as they all make great quartz watches and can be had for very little cash outlay. The idea of this post is to offer perhaps little known alternatives, or ones that one may not think of straight off the bat, or perhaps even thought they were priced higher when they're not.
**I have not provided links to some of the pieces mentioned here because they don't sell direct from a website, but they can easily be found for sale**
Bruno Sohnle Atrium - $455 AUD
Never heard of this brand until it was recently brought to my attention by a friend who was looking for a watch for a friend who wanted to avoid the usual Seiko/Citizen route. Read the post here You could say this post was partly inspired by that scenario. Although little known to me, the brand comes from that great watchmaking cluster in Germany called "Glashutte" and has all the markings of the great watchmaking tradition. Except that they make quartz watches, which brings the prices down significantly, without sacrificing quality... You can get them here in Oz now from Define Watches
Defakto Detail - 280 Euro
The Defakto brand also made the previous list for watches under $1000. But if we're talking about one-handed watches it's not as much of a consequence if the watch is battery powered right? It's not like you'll miss the sweeping seconds hand. The Detail is one fine looking watch. Thin and elegant, I wouldn't mind at all if my one-handed watch is a quartz, since you can't really tell the difference, and.. well.. just look at it!! At that price you can't go wrong. And no, I don't make appointment times like 3:12. a five-minute indication is really good enough. (Unless you only have 2 minutes to catch the train. In which case... you should've left earlier.)
Defakto Detail
Mondaine - From $345 AUD
This has to be on the list. It's a classic, Swiss railway watch. This has the history, the design, the story, and a distinctively pretty face. And you don't have to pay through the nose for it (unless you're Apple. Ahem.) It also comes in a huge variety of options and sizes so you could possibly get one for each of the family members.
Check them out at Brisbane Vintage Watches or Sydney Vintage Watches
Botta Mondo - 348 Euro less VAT
Just cuz I like the design.
Plus some of their designs have won the coveted red dot design award, too, so they do know what they're doing. Plus they're just so cool! (Edit: I didn't realise this until the post was finished - our previous tarts editor had actually posted about this very watch! - Read her review here Looks like Tarters do have very similar tastes!)
Botta Design
Laco Dresden Pilot watch - 350 Euro less VAT
Along with Stowa, Laco was one of the original companies that made the pilot watch back in the 40s (The other three are A Lange & Sohne, IWC and Wempe). If you want a pilot watch with a proper pilot watch history, but your budget is limited, Laco offers their classic pilot watch with a quartz movement where really the only discernable difference is the movement. And why not? Just because you have a limited budget doesn't mean you have to miss out on a classic, right?
Laco Watches
Tissot PRC200 - $475
Yes I chose not to include Tissot in the under $1000 range, but I think under $500 is where they truly shine. The PRC200 is one of those amazing looking watches that could easily pass for watches costing many times more. A sports watch at heart, stick it on a strap and you dress it up immediately. The watch also has that classic style which means it won't go out of date, and as long as you keep up the battery changes, you should have no issues with it whatsoever. It's also a great value for money if you count the number of hands you get for your bucks. It's the only chronograph on the list here (If you don't count Swatch - but that's kinda in a different league.) Oh. One more thing- this watch only sneaks under $500 if you DON'T buy it in Australia. But then again, Tissot watches are on sale constantly here I'm sure you can pick one up new for under $500.
Victorinox Active Original - $325
Known for their army knives, they also make some really nice watches. For the price you get quality Swiss made watches, powered by a reliable swiss quartz movement, and in a variety of military inspired colours, you can't go wrong with one of these for your weekend and/or casual Friday look. I especially like the matching nato strap, which you can easily change yourself from a huge selection available from just about everywhere.
Victorinox
cK Bold - 200 pounds
Yes CK is a fashion brand. But Mr Klein licences his name so much that it's really lost all meaning. CK watches are made by the Swatchgroup, meaning you are getting the watchmaking expertise behind this powerhouse. Being part of swatchgroup also means that you have the peace of mind when it comes to certain levels of quality. Plus I love the minimalistic design that they employ for the CK range. Delete the name from the dial, or even, replace it with something else and I'm sure you'll get away with charging at least 3 times more. And that's what I love about the watch - it just oozes style.
Swatch Irony - In A Blue Mode - $115
Swatch was an easy choice, and their whole range comes under the $500 ceiling. Just one thing to keep in mind though. Due to the construction of their cases (one piece) if the movement stuffs up, you can't service it. I mean, they were designed to be throw-away watches. Their Irony range (or anything that's not made from plastic) looks the part and provided you look after it, a battery change every 2 years or so should be all you need for years and years of stylish Swiss timing. I have an Irony chrono that's hit double digits and still going strong (touch wood). I have chosen the "In A Blue Mode" as I really like the style, sold bracelet design and looks fantastic!
Swatch In A Blue Mode
Fortis Flipper/Fortis Colour - 240 Euro
This is the return of the Fortis Flipper from the 70s. It's essentially a watch module that you can fit into different coloured "cases" which are integrated with the strap. You can choose from a set of three different colours for 240 Euro or a case of ten different colours for more $$$. This is a quartz watch and I'm assuming it's Swiss (it doesn't say but the rest of the Fortis range are) and it's a very inexpensive way into a Fortis, and a fun watch at that. The watch 'case' is made from silicon, and it's just a case of 'popping' the 'watch' in and out to change colours. The dedicated website is coming soon, but it seems you can get them already from Chrono24
Fortis Color
Thursday, November 8, 2012
Top Gear 50 Years of Bond Cars Wrist Watching
Top Gear.. well, Richard Hammond recently did a Bond car special to celebrate the 50 years anniversary of James Bond. This episode is absolutely compulsory viewing if you're the least bit of a Bond fan, or a car fan. Of course, as we all know very well that all 3 hosts of the program are also somewhat watch enthusiasts, as our previous posts have shown. And this time around, Richard did not let us down, wearing no less than 4 different watches during the course of this special episode.
2 of the watches we've seen him wear before so I won't go into details. They are the Rolex Sub and the Breitling. The third watch he wore during the interview with Daniel Craig, is a Tissot T-Touch of some sort. There aren't really any clear shots of the watch during the episode so I couldn't tell exactly which T-Touch it is...
However, what was most interesting to me, and I had to do a double take (well, in this case, pause, rewind, zoom) to make sure I wasn't mistaking what was on his wrist for most of the episode...
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| Aston Martin DB5 - the most famous Bond car of all... |
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| As Richard is driving the DB5, I couldn't help notice what was on his wrist. It can't be.... |
But it looks like any other Speedy, you say. What's so special about this one?
Well, I'm going out on a limb here since I can only determine from the screen caps, but it's most likely a 105.012 or a 145.012. These 2 references were produced in the late 60s/early 70s and powered by the cal.321, which had the column wheel arrangement rather than the cam and lever that's found the cal.861 and subsequent Speedmasters.
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| But it is!!! Not just any ol' Omega Speedmaster... |
The 105.012 is the first Speedmaster to have the text "Professional" added after omega discovered that its watches were sent to the moon on the wrists of the Apollo 11 astronauts and there are only very minute differences between the 105.012 and 145.012. And if you can tell the diff, you're even more of a watch nerd than you're letting on. I won't go into details here. There are plenty of info out there on the interwebs.
Of course, there are no hard and fast rules back in those days and exceptions do apply. Finding one these days that had everything correct and original is becoming increasingly difficult.
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That's quite a long limb I've gone out on. Let's bring this back to the episode. In my opinion, I've never seen Hammond as one for vintage watches. James May we all know has quite a few vintage pieces and they do go... well with his style. But that's the thing about the Omega Speedmaster. It's such a classic and iconic piece of great design and engineering that something made in the 50s (the very first iteration of the Speedmaster) still looks modern today. Just like BOND! 50 years old and still as relevent today as he was 50 years ago (totally biased opinion here), and the Aston Martin DB5. Granted car tech has moved on since then, but the design is still as gorgeous today as it was 50 years ago.
Sorry... but the same can't be said for Roger Moore...
During Hammond's interview with Daniel Craig we see briefly what appears to be an Omega Aqua Terra.
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| You can't really see it but Daniel Craig is wearing an Omega Aqua Terra... as per contractual agreement... |
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| Classic Toyota 2000GT |
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| Lotus Submarine! |
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| The Breitling Hammond's worn before on Top Gear |
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| Aston Martin Vanquish |
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| A close up of the Omega Speedmaster |
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| Aston Martin DBS |
We also catch a glimpse of ex-Stig, Ben Collin's wrist, and he is sporting a TAG Heuer Carrera chronograph day-date, which is powered by the venerable Valjoux 7750.
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| Ben Collins wearing a TAG Heuer Carrera chrono |
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| Hammond and Tissot T-Touch of some description... |
So it would seem that Hammond's taste in watches is almost as diverse as James May.
Now, can someone convince Clarkson to wear something else????
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