2020 Green Dial Watches Part 1: Top 15 Time Only Watches

Green is the new blue. 

Previous years there has been a few splatter of green dial watches. Nothing dramatic and most of the time paired to a bronze case. But 2020 seems to be the year where being seen to be green is in fashion. 

Green is a symbol of hope, luck, growth, and nature in many cultures. Today, it also symbolises environmental protection. There is nothing more eco-friendly than a watch that is powered either by the movement of your wrist or a simple wind up of a mainspring which stores energy in a barrel, which will continue to run (with careful maintenance) for decades?

Now, stop being green and think the grass is greener on the other side. Here are a wristful of green watches that will surely make others green with envy. Go ahead. You have the green light. 

The following is a list of the top 15 green mechanical/automatic simple 2/3 hand watches with/without date we could find that were launched in just 2020 alone. In alphabetical order: 

1. Ball AWF Limited Edition

The Ball Engineer III Mavelight AWF watch was designed for the Australian Watch Forum, the largest Facebook group for watch enthusiasts. 904L grade stainless steel, 40mm case size.

2. Bell & Ross BR03-92 HUD limited to 999 pieces

The collection is directly inspired by the navigation tools of aircraft cockpit. The new BR03‑92 H.U.D (Head-Up Display) gets inspiration from the avionics displays of fighter jets equipped with the most cutting-edge technology. The case is matte black ceramic, 42mm, green sapphire crystal and water resistant to 100m. Power reserve of 38 hours.

3. Blancpain Bathyscaphe Mokarran limited to 50 Pieces 

A special watch dedicated to protecting the great Hammerhead shark. This model will be available exclusively in Blancpain boutiques in New York and Las Vegas. A total of $50,000 will be added to the brand's regular contributions to promoting, respecting and protecting the fascinating world of the oceans. Case is in black ceramic, measuring 43.6mm x 13.8mm. Water resistant to 300m, powered by in-house calibre 1318 with 120 hours power reserve.  

4. Bovet Miss Audrey

It features a green guilloché dial inspired by the lotus flower that reflects sumptuous shades. This timepiece is also housed in the Amadéo® convertible 36mm stainless steel case. The bezel and the iconic bow are set with diamonds.The case's convertible feature allows the timepiece to be worn on the wrist, transformed into a table clock or turned into a pendant without tools. Total of 1.04ct diamonds. Water resistant to 30m.

5. Eberhard Traversetolo Hope

The green dial was chosen as it symbolises hope. Stainless steel 43mm case, water resistant to 50m

6. Frederique Constant Vintage Rally Healey

The Vintage Rally "Healey" limited editions were created as a result of a partnership between the Frederique Constant Manufacture and the Austin-Healey car brand. Established in 2004, the bond has never been broken; seventeen years of allegiance and fellowship between watchmaking and mechanics, punctuated by rallies, meetings, races and a shared passion for retro design. 40mm stainless steel case, water resistant to 50m. The caseback has been engraved with an Austin-Healey and powered by Frederique Constant caliber FC-303 with a power reserve of 38 hours. 

7. Kurono Anniversary Green ‘森:Mori' Limited edition of 288 pieces.

To commemorate the first anniversary of Kurono, made by watchmaker Hajime Asaoka. Stainless steel case with a high curvature sapphire crystal, powered by Miyota's calibre 90S5, with a 42-hour power reserve. Proudly made in Japan and hand assembled. 

8. Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin Green

Housed in the Classic, pebble-shaped case, this new version is cased in grade 5 titanium. The hand-wound Calibre LF 116.01  is equipped with a free-sprung balance and a Breguet overcoil. 

9. Longines HydroConquest Green Boutique Edition

41mm stainless steel case, with sapphire crystal and water resistant to 300 meters. Green ceramic bezel insert. Powered by Longines caliber L888.5 (base ETA A31.L11) with a silicon balance spring and a power reserve of 64 hours.

10. Montblanc Heritage Automatic

40mm case in 18kt yellow gold, a steel caseback with Minerva Manufacture engraving, water resistant to 50 meters. Powered b by Montblanc caliber MB 24.27 (base Sellita) with a power reserve of 42 hours. It features a flat hairspring and a flat hoop balance. 

11. Norqain Independence 20 Limited to 200 pieces

We mentioned the brand Norqain before, and this is the first piece to use the Kenissi movement. Stainless steel case, 42mm diametre, Kenissi movement with 70 hours of power reserve. Water resistant to 100m.

12. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 41

41mm stainless steel case, AR-coated sapphire crystal, a sapphire display back, and it is water resistant to 150 meters. Powered by in-house caliber 8900 with a power reserve of 60 hours. Co-Axial escapement. Certified Master Chronometer by METAS, and resistant to magnetic fields reaching 15,000 gauss. Free sprung-balance with silicon balance spring.

13. Oris x Momotaro Divers Sixty-Five

This special steel and bronze version of the Oris Divers Sixty-Five is made in collaboration with the independent Japanese company Momotaro Jeans. Named after a Japanese folklore hero, Momotaro was launched in 2006 by Hisao Manabe. Its roots lie in his textile company, which he established in 1992 with just three employees in the small coastal town of Kojima in Okayama. Stainless steel 40mm case, rotating bezel with bronze edge. Water resistant to 100m, powered by Oris calibre 733 (base Sellita SW200-1) with a power reserve of 38 hours.

14. Rado Captain Cook Diver Green 42

Stainless steel case measuring 42mm x 48.6mm x 12.3mm, water resistant to 300m. Steel bezel with polished green ceramic insert. Powered by ETA caliber C07.611 with a power reserve of 80 hours. 

15. Urban Jürgensen Big 8 "London Edition" Limited to 10 pieces  

This limited edition watch will donate all profits to the Wellcome Trust COVID-Zero Research Fund.

Stainless steel case 40mm x 10.8mm, water resistant to 30m. Soldered tear-drop shaped lugs. Powered by Urban-Jurgensen caliber FP1160 (base F. Piguet) with a power reserve of 48 hours. It features a 21kt gold rotor with guilloché decoration. 

Top Gear Wrist Watching Season 18 Ep.3

It's only the third episode of the season and already we've seen four different watches on May's wrist, as you can see from our previous two posts … I guess we can assume he changes watches more often than he changes his outfits (I'm not sure if you noticed, but I think that Freddy Kruger stripey jumper is one of his favourites…).

We see in the film clip (screenshot below) where he test drives a hot hatch, that he's wearing a Rado Ceramica Jubile. I won't delve into which model exactly, since well, it's a bit hard to tell, but contrary to popular internet opinion, Rado was using ceramic as a watch case/ bracelet material long before the J12 was conceived.

James May with Rado Ceramica Jubile

Not quite the model James May wore, but you get the drift... 
Didn't realise it was so hard trying to find a good picture of this Rado...

Rado, believe it or not, were almost neck and neck with IWC in being the first watch brands to use ceramic- see our post HERE. IWC was first, but Rado has consistently had ceramic watches on range since 1986. What May is wearing is perhaps one of the most iconic ceramic Rados made - all black and futuristic looking. Especially back in the mid to late 80s. If there was ever a watch to feature in the 'future' in Back To The Future, I reckon this would be it. It goes really well with the hovering DeLorean.

Another good thing about ceramic is that it doesn't scratch easily, and will always look black and shiny, so it'll always hold that blingy look - as long as you don't drop the watch. But then again you shouldn't drop watches. Unless it's a G-Shock. In which case, drop away!

We also get a clearer look at the Breitling Navitimer on Richard Hammond's wrist during the news segment. He has some of the best expressions…

Richard Hammond and a nice close up of the Breitling Navitimer

No prizes for guessing what Jeremy is STILL wearing…




[o]

Tech Talk No. 4: Ceramic Watches

Rado's been doing them since the late 80s. That's right. How can you forget those slick lookin' cuff-like black Rados?

But let's just get this whole "first-to-the-market" thing straight.

IWC was the first watch company to produce a watch with a ceramic (zirconium oxide) case watch, in 1986, in a perpetual calendar Da Vinci. All you other ceramic shadys are just imitatin'… I can quote their press release here, but you can easily find it online (perhaps not as easily as you'd find many many websites proclaiming that Chanel were first…).

The first ceramic watch - from IWC: the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar in 1986, 

using Zirconium Oxide

I am surprised that IWC doesn't trumpet this fact more. Maybe they don't need to. Only they can answer that.

Here is a little bit of background: That first IWC ceramic model was produced in very small numbers because the material was difficult to machine. Over the years, technicians and engineers have acquired a lot of experience in the manufacture and machining of this extremely scratch-resistant, non-magnetic and acid-proof ceramic. The case blanks can now be formed more efficiently and with greater accuracy than before. They are sintered at temperatures between 1500 and 2000 degrees Celsius, followed by cooling in a complicated process to enable the material to attain all of its outstanding properties. Diamond tools are required for the intricate finishing of the blanks.

Now that's off my chest, let's talk about the use of ceramic for watch cases. What's so good about them and what's not so good? The first thing to know is that there are several types of ceramics. However, I could not, for the life of me, find out exactly what sort of compounds are used by which watch company. "High-tech ceramic" says nothing to me. So, all I have managed to find out is that IWC uses zirconium oxide. If Rado or Chanel or Hublot or anyone else want to chime in on why their version of ceramic is better, email us - thesydneytarts@gmail.com

So, to make it easy:

Ceramic watches

The Good:

* Scratch and dent resistant (note I do not use the word "proof" since that's a bit too absolute…)
* Resistance to acidity
* Hypoallergenic

The Bad:

It will shatter…so the bad isn't so bad as long as you don't drop the watch onto something hard… You shouldn't anyway, regardless of case material…


In summary - Ceramic is very HARD but it is not TOUGH.

The toughness is the material's ability to absorb energy.

Hardness describes a material's ability to resist scratches and dents. So, like a diamond, ceramic is very hard, but strike it at the right place, and it will break. Just as long as you don't drop it, it will remain looking like new after many, many years. But do keep in mind that like every other material, there are differing levels of quality, so one ceramic watch may not be as hard as another. You can get very cheap ceramic watches, and I can almost guarantee that it'll break a heck of a lot quicker, and easier than something from say, the powerhouses of IWC, Rado and Chanel.


[o]

Tokonoma Shochu Bar + Lounge Launch
490 Crown St
Surry Hills
Sydney
NSW 2010
Ph : (02) 9357 6100

Stunning Akira Isogawa collection as modelled by some mannequins

So… you ask… what’s it feel like to be on a PR list? Yes – I know you’re thinking it. If not you are now. I’m not sure if I want to be on a PR list. Not unless I can bring along an entourage with me. I don’t do so good in these sort of events/ functions/ launches. I’m not like those socialites who will go to an opening of an envelope, and just drink/ eat themselves silly. I’m the kinda guy that will stand by myself in the corner with hands in the pocket looking down on the floor.

Working on it. Seriously.

More from the Akira Isogawa Collection.
Before going, I thought that they were going to be modelled by live models. Guess I was expecting too much...

And it came to pass that somehow I managed to get myself onto the list for the launch of Toko’s latest venture - The Tokonoma Shochu Bar + Lounge. Positioned next door to Toko restaurant on Surry Hills’ premier eat street, Crown St, Tokonoma Shochu Bar + Lounge features an extensive cocktail menu including the ama mizu “literal translation: sweet water” (fresh watermelon, shaken with hakutake shochu, Belvedere vodka and rose petals) and lychee & jasmine mojito (lychees, fresh mint and lime juice stirred with Havana anejo especial and jasmine tea soda).

The mojito is simply divine. I must’ve had like six of these. Couldn’t stay away. Didn’t even touch the beer/ wine/ champagne. Ok. I had one sip of the champagne, which wasn’t bad either, to be honest, considering it’s a Chandon.

ama mizu being prepared

lychee & jasmine mojito being prepared

THAT Mojito. Better than the classic mojito.
That shrub in the background caught fire later on in the night...

I love the decor of the lounge bar. The lighting and the atmosphere are very relaxing and welcoming. There were meant to be a lot of confirmed celebs attending the launch, and I must admit that we weren't really on the look out for them, but I have a feeling not many of them actually showed up. We did see Justine of Masterchef. She was quite petite but just as pretty in real life. We also spotted Geoff Huegill as well as the designer of the day - Akira Isogawa. I believe that Eamon O'Sullivan, swimmer and recent winner of Celebrity Masterchef, was also there.

Moody shot of the lychee & jasmine mojito

Now, this wouldn't be much of a watch blog if we didn't talk watches right? Akira Isogawa was wearing a white ceramic Rado True Chronograph. The good thing about these watches is that they are very distinctive and easy to spot. You can tell them apart from a mile away.

Geoff Huegill, on the other hand, was wearing an Omega Seamaster of some sort. I could tell that it was definitely of the Seamaster "Bond" range, thanks to the bracelet style. I could only see the bracelet, so I can't confirm whether it's the time-only, the chronograph, or whether it's the blue or the newer black dial version.

Akira Isogawa with a white ceramic Rado True Chronograph on his wrist.

Here's a close up of the Rado

The Rado is quite nice. very simple in its design and I really like the "True" case. It's smooth and just very classic. Although if I had the choice I'd go with the dark grey version with the matte finishing...

Now, onto the food part of the evening. At first I was pretty hungry and got so busy stuffing my face that I'd completely forgot that I should actually take some photos of the food that was being served as well. So, it was with some reluctance that I took the camera out and took photos of each plate that came before us before eating...

Agedashi Tofu stuffed with eggplant or avocado 

Err... a variety of sushi rolls.

Tuna tartare

Battered fish with aioli (I think - didn't try it)

The majority of the food was really good. Much better than I'd anticipated, but I guess that given the reputation that Toko has. the food quality would be right up there. Some of the items served on the night are from next door (Toko) and some will be on the menu at Tokonoma.

Expensive imported Norwegian VOSS water. Yes. Norwegian.

The watches in attendance: a LIP Mach 2000 and a JLC

A final big thanks to the folks at Tokonama and Fiona Wood for a fun night!

[Text : Onomatopia. Photos : Onomatopia & AP]

A Plea to Watch Companies

I have a sister who wants to be able to wear watches, but who has been unable to for a number of years now. The reason? A nickel allergy (contact dermatitis), which extends to an allergic reaction to leather straps as well. For some unknown reason this surfaced only in her late 20s, but it has meant that she has not been able to wear a watch for a long time.

Many chemical agents, including nickel, can cause allergic contact dermatitis (ACD), which results in inflammation of areas of the skin in sensitised individuals. ACD is caused by sweat corrosion of nickel and the formation of nickel ions as a result of prolonged contact with the skin.

The European Nickel Directive 2004/96/EC determined that the level of permitted nickel release be 0.5 micrograms per square centimeter for products intended to be in direct and prolonged contact with the skin.

Products may contain nickel in higher concentrations, but only where they have a non-nickel coating and the coating is sufficient to ensure that the rate of nickel released from parts in direct and prolonged contact with the skin is less than 5 micrograms per square centimetre per week for a minimum period of 2 years normal use.

In spite these regulations, it is an issue which does arise periodically on watch fora. There are people who are unable to wear Omega Speedmasters for example.

Non-occupational ACD reportedly affects between 5-15% of females. According to the Nickel Institute, public health advocates are using these figures to project that over 10% of the world's population are at risk of being sensitised to nickel.

Not being as horologically addicted as I, but nonetheless owning a couple of decent watches, the absence of a watch on her wrist has not bothered her as it would me, but she has nonetheless hoped that she would be able to wear a watch again some day. The other week I finally managed to convince her to try again, by purchasing a new one. The general agreement amongst the Tarts who gave advice was that Titanium or ceramic would be the best options.

Titanium and ceramic watches are not hard to find for men (or women who wear men's watches), but for women like my sister, whose wrist is too small to wear a men's watch, it is much more difficult. Another compounding problem is that the use of ceramic or Titanium is sometimes combined with stainless steel on watches. This is perfectly fine for most, but for those with skin allergies who need the caseback to be Titanium or ceramic, and not stainless steel, this reduces the already very limited options even further.

My sister wanted a practical watch, nothing white, nothing with diamonds, and at a reasonable price point. Basically it came down to Rado, who are in fact well known for the Ceramica line.

With this as a starting point, she visited some half a dozen watch shops in Central, Hong Kong, where she has been holidaying, and at each dealer, there was only ever one woman's watch available in Ti or ceramic, regardless of brand.

Yes, it became an issue of stock availability.

Her eventual purchase was the Rado True Active R27678152. The watch will serve the purpose, but with the projected figure that 10% of the world's population could be nickel sensitised, if nothing else it makes some degree of financial sense for companies to consider increasing the range of (not just women's) watches available in materials such as Titanium and ceramic not just for aesthetic reasons, but for health ones. There is hypo allergenic and non nickel coated jewellery readily available after all, so why not watches as well?

[AP]