SIHH 2013 - Jaeger-LeCoultre 180th Anniversary Jubilee Ultra Thin

As JLC celebrates their 180th birthday this year (2013), fans of the brand were eagerly anticipating something special from this manufacture, one of the very few brands that makes almost everything inhouse. (straps, some crystals and dials I believe are outsourced)

And so their “Jubilee” collection certainly did not disappoint. Out of the 3 watches in the set, the least expensive however, is what impressed me the most. Granted, the other two are high complication stuff, but these days everyone who’s anyone are churning out amazing out-of-this-world stuff. Still very impressive, but nothing as difficult as getting something simple and elegant just right.

The new Ultra Thin in the collection is simply breathtaking. Elegantly proportioned, it is magnificent in its simplicity. All that you need and nothing you don’t. Well, maybe a date, but then again I’ve never been big on dates anyways. At a diameter of 39mm, some may argue it’s still too big for a dress watch. Erm, welcome to the 21st century, where 47mm is no longer considered “big”. 

The fact that they’ve managed to make something so thin without resorting to producing a new thinner movement (it runs the current ultra thin manual wind movement calibre 849 clocking in at 1.85mm “thick”, just a tad thicker than Vacheron’s at 1.55mm “thick”) is nothing short of a miracle. Considering the total height of the watch is 4.05mm, (0.05 less than that of Vacheron’s to snag the title of the thinnest mechanical watch currently in production – or something like that) this leaves just a meagre 2.2mm to fit in a case, a crystal, dial and hands! You’d almost be forgiven to think that given JLC’s prowess in watchmaking, it might have been easier just to make a thinner movement! 

Using a proven movement does have its perks, since all the bugs would’ve been ironed out and no doubt all the JLC watchmakers will have been trained on the movement, so even on the rare occasion that it dies, you won’t have issues getting it fixed. Being so thin it’s a good thing that the watch is cased in ‘extra white’ platinum case. At least you’ll feel it on your wrist… Just. Limited to 880 pieces you’d better get in quick if you want bragging rights to having one of the thinnest and most elegant watches around. 

Specs

Manual wound movement Calibre 849
35 hour power reserve
21,600 beats per hour
1.85mm thick
19 jewels

Case:

39mm extra white platinum case
4.05mm thick
Water resistant to 50m

Limited to 880 pieces