Watch Styling Musings...

Look I'm not picking on Omega and Longines. The watches differ enough for people not to confuse one with the other. But, it’s a bit of a sad to see such similar styling cues from brands releasing models so close together. It’s as if they don’t bother any more. Granted you might say that what else is there to given the restrictive amount of space and the basic need to tell the time, without going all fancy and weird like Tokyo Flash?

I think there is still quite a large scope for watch designers (and *ahem* movement designers/engineers) to come up with something that is distinctive and unique. Even if an off-the-shelf movement is used, there are still numerous creative ways to design the dial, the case and the way the time is indicated (notice I didn't use the term ‘hands’). Even the most seemingly minute detail could make a world of difference. One example would be the wave pattern Omega used to have on the dial of the Seamaster range. That was distinctive. I loved that dial. Then they went and made it anonymous.

Another good example was the Panerai tapestry decoration on the movement. It was distinctive and made a generic movement look much less generic. Then it was changed to Geneva stripe, whilst still nice looking, did away with the personality.

As much as the world would like to think otherwise, and the watch industry is guilty of this as well, luxury watches aren't really fashion items. That’s what the “fashion watch” segment is for. They should be viewed more as style icons. Icons last over time. Fashion doesn't. If a watch is built to last and to be passed down through generations, then perhaps best not to design it in a way that it'll look out of date come next Spring, and something the next generation would baulk at?

Ah, but how to design something distinctive with a unique personality, at the same time classic and timeless? I'm just a blogger what do I know? No one said being a designer is easy. Or, the tried and tested method- dig into the company archives and see what can be plagiarised from the past… Just make sure it’s your own company and not someone else’s? Even if companies happen to be under the same group umbrella…

Pilot Watch Worldtimer Showdown!

Recently we received a letter from one of our readers*. It says, "Dear Sydney Tart, I'm a pilot and I travel the world. What can you suggest in the form of a pilot watch with world time zone functions? "

Well Mr Pilot, I'm very glad you asked that question because we have found not one, but 4 watches that are right up your alley, at different price points, so you're covered if you work for Jetstar or Emirates or you fly your own Cessna. Let's explore further.

For starters, as a criteria, all watches features the pilot watch style, along with a world time zone function. All watches in this list shows the cities from the 24 time zones around the edge of the dial, with day/night indicators. Most of the representative city names for the time zones are the same, with some minor differences here and there. One of the watches runs a manually wound movement whilst the other three are automatic. One runs a heavily modified ETA movement, the others are manufacture in-house movements. Two of the watches features no additional functions apart from date, while the other two adds the alarm function, and one goes further with a chronograph built in as well. It's up to you whether you feel you need the additional functions or you're happy with time and date. Two of the watches also feature daylight saving indications, whereas the other two you'll have to add/subtract an hour yourself. You also need to note that none of these watches show half-hour time zones, so if you're based in New Delhi or Adelaide, ahem...

This quartet of watches not only covers a fairly broad price range, they also cover a range of sizes, from 42mm to 46mm. Some will wear larger/smaller than others so as always, we recommend that you try the watches on if you can. As worldtimers, you're not going to have a clean dial, Although one brand does it quite well. All the other have fairly busy dials. Hopefully this will give you a good idea of what's available, and depending on you needs and wants and thickness of your wallet, you can't go wrong with any of them. But, we do have our pick, which we will reveal after the specs for each model.

Alpina Startimer Pilot Worldtimer

Movement: Automatic caliber AL-718, 

48 hour power reserve

Case Diametre: 44mm

Water resistant: 100m

Limited Edition: 8888 pieces

Price: USD3,450

IWC Pilot's Watch Worldtimer

Movement: Automatic Caliber 30750, 

42 hour power reserve

Case Diametre: 45mm

Water resistance: 60 meters

Price: USD9,650

Vulcain Aviator GMT

Movement: Mechanical manually-wound Manufacture Vulcain Calibre V-10,

42 hour power reserve with alarm function.

Alarm Duration: Approx. 20 seconds

Case Diametre: 42mm

Case-back: triple case-back acting as a resonance chamber 

Water resistant: 100m

Price: USD5,525

Zenith Pilot Doublematic

Movement: El Primero 4046, automatic, 50h power reserve, 36.600 A/h, big date, chronograph, World Time, alarm

Case Diametre: 45mm 

water resistant: 50m

Price: USD14,200

Our pick of the bunch would have to be the Zenith. Yes it is the most expensive watch here but to us it is also the best value for money, given all the included complications. 

*the reader and/or the letter may or may not be fictional. Juz sayin'

Espace Horloger- Great Watchmaking Museum in the Vallée de Joux

Espace Horloger - Vallée de Joux
Grand-Rue 2
1347 Le Sentier
T. +41 21 845 75 45
info@espacehorloger.ch

As a reader of this blog I'm sure you already know that in the Vallée de Joux  there lives a number of high end watchmaking manufactures. Audemars Piguet, Blancpain, Breguet and Jaeger-LeCoultre just to name a few. There are also numerous smaller maisons such as Daniel Roth, movement manufactures such as Dubois Depraz, and a number of parts makers such as Francois Golay. What you may not know is that there is also a very nice little watchmaking museum up in the mountains - Espace Horloger, believe it or not. And it's only a short stroll from Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre.

This was a surprising little gem, and apart from a permanent exhibition on watchmaking and the history of, there is also a section of temporary exhibition which as the name suggests, changes from time to time. The tour guide is well versed in multiple languages, is extremely knowledgeable and very humorous to boot. The building that houses the museum used to be a 'maison' for watchmaking and on the top floor, a section is preserved from back in the days when watchmaking activities were the norm. You get a first hand view on how things were like 200 years ago.

However, don't assume that just because there are a lot of history in the museum, it's all... well... historical. It also utilises some of the fanciest 21st century technology. Ok, the first one, a 3D movie about watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux isn't exactly breathtakingly high tech these days, but the next bit of technology comes almost straight out of the movie Minority Report. You have a huge touch screen table, with a number of 'discs' on the side. Place the disc on the touch screen and it comes alive, with a touch menu extending out of the disc and onto the screen. Choose from the menu and it takes you through a journey right there in front of you. Move the disc and the whole thing moves with it. Personally I didn't think this sort of technology was available to the public! There are also watchmaking lessons on the big touch screen, where you can 'virtually' build your own watch, then email the final product to yourself.

At the moment the temporary exhibition is all about the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, and on exhibition is the extremely rare and sought after Royal Oak A series, amongst others. Over on the more permanent exhibition, there are items ranging from clocks, animatrons, watchmaking tools including an example of the millionometre as invented by Antoine LeCoultre, and various watches on display. I won't spoil it for you. The images here are just a small sample of what's on show. It is a definite must for all watch enthusiasts. Especially if you're already making the trek up the gorgeous sweeping mountain passes (no need for an Aston Martin, a Golf will do nicely) to the Vallée de Joux to visit the various Manufactures.

Oh, and if you prefer to read the old fashioned (proper) way, they also have a ton of various watch literature for sale.

Thanks to my contact in the Vallée de Joux for the images and the heads-up on this place!

NBA Finals Players and Watches

As we head into Game 7 of the NBA finals between San Antonio Spurs and Miami Heat, why don't we have a quick look at the players' wrists and see what sort of wrist jewellery are present, other than those weird rubber straps that's meant to emit some sort of energy frequency to make you perform better. Right. And just so happens some of the players from both teams in the finals have pretty decent watch endorsement contracts in place.

Representing the Heat:

LeBron James with his Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore.

Dwayane Wade with his Hublot King Power Dwayane Wade

and of course, the Miami Heat themselves have a watch too- The King Power Miami Heat.

Representing the Spurs:

Tony Parker with his... Tissot..

Let's get back to Hublot and AP. Hublot has also signed up the Black Mamba himself, Kobe Bryant as an ambassador, and AP did used to have Shaq on their watches. Shaq, on the other hand wore a Swatch before he was signed by AP. Quite the step up. Perhaps there is still time for Tony to upgrade...

Kobe Bryant's Hublot

Swatch Shaq - image from Squiggly.com

Shaq Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore

Top 10 Reasonably Priced watches from Baselworld 2013

You would've already seen/read quite a number of "top 10" lists from Baselworld 2013. But the problem with these lists is that they're quite often without rhyme or reason. Put all the watches on the dartboard and you too can come up with a similar top ten list.

This is why you've come to the Sydney tarts. I didn't put together a top ten list earlier (even though I could have) to cash in on the rush, but then there would be no point. I wanted to think through the choices, not not just most hyped/popular pieces. I didn't want to do a list just because. The list need to serve a purpose.

Granted the list is not exhaustive as Baselworld is massively huge and since I'm not there personally I can only rely on press releases and coverage from people who have made the trek. But out of all that I've seen, I believe these are the best 10 watches from Baselworld this year that are affordable. Relatively speaking. It's easy to cram in ten dozen complications into a watch and charge six figures for it. The problem is that most of us will never ever see them in the flesh let along truly appreciate them as they should be appreciated. Ie, strapped to the wrist. I believe that it is much more difficult to make a truly desirable watch at an affordable price point.

For this top ten list I have set a price ceiling of $5000 as this seems to be the upper limit of what a "reasonable" person will be willing to spend on a good watch. However, majority of the watches on the list cost much less. I've tried to find pricing info for all the watches. Where pricing is not available I've done my best to guesstimate. The list is not in any order.

1. Tissot Luxury Automatic
USD850 on strap, USD895 on bracelet

Beautifully designed. Simple and elegant. With an in-group movement to boot (I say in-group as the Powermatic 80 movement is also used in Certina watches) this Tissot is extremely great value for money. Gorgeous case work, stunning dial, this dress watch delivers in spades. The 80 hour power reserve is very practical, as you can take it off Friday evening after work, and it'll still be running when it goes back on your wrist Monday morning. At 41mm in diametre it is quite wearable and as usual, for an extra $45, get the bracelet variant then stick the watch on a strap if you feel like it to give it that extra dressy look/feel. This watch makes the Fossil way overpriced...


2.Frederique Constant Slimline Moonphase
From 2650 Euro

We've already raved about the watch here. Not much else to add, really. Just a really really beautiful watch with an in-house movement at a great, great price. It's definitely on my shopping list.


3. Mondaine Vintage II Automatic
950 CHF

The classic Swiss railway watch, with a great automatic movement (ETA 2892-A2) at a great price. This is for all those movement snobs who just can't bring themselves to getting the quartz version of the classic Mondaine. But you might have to be quick as these are limited to only 500 pieces worldwide.


4. Hamilton Khaki Pilot Pioneer Automatic Chronograph
USD 1845

Good thing about Hamilton with the might of the swatchgroup behind them is that they are able to offer brilliant watches for very low outlay. I think ETA is also doing more customising for each of the brands within the swatchgroup now that they don't have to produce massive amounts of movements for the rest of the Swiss watch industry. This watch gets a modified Valjoux 7753 to a bi-compax layout and an increased 60-hour power reserve. It's a very well done modernisation of a classic 70s Khaki pilot with the case size updated to a still-versatile 41mm. One small gripe. WHY THE DATE WINDOW???


5. Mühle-Glashütte Teutonia II Tag Datum
From 1790 Euro

This is another clean, simple and elegant dress watch, and great for someone who wants something outside the Swiss Made repertoire. Perfectly symmetrical and balanced dial with day at 12 and date at 6 and powered by a Sellita movement (which is, ahem, Swiss). At least the name is a mouthful, and passer-bys wouldn't have a clue what it is. And that is exactly what you want. Otherwise you would have gone for the Tissot...


6. Alpina 130 Heritage Chrono
Guesstimate $3000

A lot of brands are celebrating anniversaries this year eh? Swatch is 30, Alpina is 130, Tissot is 160, Jaeger-LeCoultre is 180... Anyway I digress. Again, this is another watch we raved about. The more I look at it the more in love I am with the watch. Just goes to show you can make a fantastic looking watch with a great movement (looks like a modded Valjoux 7753) for not a lot of money. And many brands from Basel are doing just that- great value for money is definitely another trend we're seeing.


7. Sinn T1/T2
Approx. 3000 CHF

The ultimate tool watch. The weapon of choice for those of you whom the watch is actually used than babied. This is definitely not a safe queen since that would be just a waste. You can read the in-depth here on Horologium, but the two watches are essentially the same, just differ in their sizes, and you can choose from a leather strap, rubber strap or a bracelet. Extremely legible, by day or by night, and the updated case also makes it much more comfortable on the wrist.


8. Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver
2900 CHF

Maurice Lacroix is a highly underrated watch brand and they deserve to be more noticed. This watch could do the trick. It is a proper diver's watch with a compressor case, similar to the style used by Longines in their Legend Diver. Comes with an internal rotating bezel as well as a helium escape valve. Although how often desk divers uses this is up for debate. This is another watch with a very clean dial, the date at 6 makes it more symmetrical, although I would've preferred a white on black date wheel. Powered by a Sellita movement (ETA 2824 clone) it's bound to be highly reliable, and can be had on a soft nato style leather strap or a bracelet.


9. Bell & Ross 123 Sport Vintage
Guesstimate $2800

The 123 Sport Heritage is the one on the left

That's right Bell & Ross makes watches other than those funky square cockpit instrument watches. Even if that's what they're known for these days. The 123 Sport Vintage is a welcome addition to the range, complete with a vintage look/style. It pays homage to the sports watch style of the 60s and I think they've done a brilliant job. Yes there is a date window but at least it's quite subtle, so I don't mind it and it doesn't detract from an otherwise clean dial with great legibility. Instant classic powered by the venerable ETA 2892 movement. There is also a limited edition "Falcon" version of said watch named after the Dassault Aviation model. Based on the pricing of the B&R 123 Original, I'm going to take a stab in the dark and guess the Sport Vintage will retail around about $2800



10. Tudor Heritage Chrono Blue
4200 CHF

The final piece on this list is also the most expensive. Even then it's still a relative bargain. I actually prefer the blue version from this year over the previous black/grey/orange version from a few years back. Partly because I don't have a blue themed watch, but I also think it looks cleaner. The quality should match the previous model, meaning it's very well made. Movement is an ETA 2892 with a chrono module, but you wouldn't pick it from the outside as the pushers and the crown lines up perfectly (module chrono movements tend to have the pushers on a different plane to the crown as the module sits on top). I believe this movement is exclusive to Tudor. And yes, I'm going to mention the dial and date window position. It's perfect. The dial is extremely clean (especially when compared to its big brother's tendency to write paragraphs on the dial, and the repetition of the name in case you forget...)

Formula 1 and Watches Update! 2013

F1 and watches update!

Information are current as of Monaco GP 2013

Since our last post on the relationship between F1 and watches, quite a bit have changed. So just to offer an update, here are where things stand. So, if it's not mentioned here it'll be business as usual as per our previous post.

The most obvious and noticed change for 2013 is Rolex taking over the Formula 1 official timing partner role from Hublot. Hublot of course stays on as partners to Ferrari.

After being dropped or dropping TW Steel, Lotus has now picked up Richard Mille (quite an upgrade, in fact) from the Spanish GP onwards. Richard Mille already provides watches for Massa and the president of the FIA - Jean Todt. So, it's only natural that they also stick their name on the nose of a racing team. However, this deal doesn't seem to extend to drivers as Romain Grojean still wears a TAG Heuer, and Kimi seems to remain watch-less for now...

Richard Mille's Jean Todt Limited Edition

TW Steel had jumped ship over to Force India at the beginning of the year. So it's the first time that Force India has an official watch partner. Perhaps our post had something to do with it??

However, an interesting thought had occurred. TW Steel picked up Lotus (back when it was Renault) right after the spygate scandal and they've now become a force to be reckoned with. Force India is now doing quite well with TW Steel stickers on the car. Perhaps these boys are some sort of a good luck charm to the team? Maybe Caterham should consider getting TW Steel on side?

The IWC and Mecedes GP partnership was mentioned before as IWC launched a complete range of Ingenieur watches at SIHH 2013. But rather than being a watch partner, they're actually an "engineering" partner. However, starting from the Monaco Gran Prix, both drivers Nico Rosberg and Lewis Hamilton will become "Friends of the Brand". This is quite the step up for both pilots, Nico from Thomas Sabo and Lewis from TAG Heuer. They were both given the Big Pilot's Watch to wear as they are both, err, pilots... Team pricipal Ross Brawn can be seen wearing one of the new Ingenieurs.

After losing Lewis to IWC, TAG Heuer picks up Sergio Perez as he partners Jenson Button at McLaren, and as we all know all McLaren drivers automatically becomes ambassadors for TAG Heuer.

Caterham did partner with watch brand BRM from the beginning of 2012 (How I missed this I have no idea, and no one seemed to have picked it up!!) and I'm assuming this continues into 2013 as BRM website currently has the Caterham F1 limited edition watches on their website.

Torro Rosso drivers Daniel Ricciardo and Jean-Eric Verne still doesn't have any watch sponsorship...

Everything else remains the same for the time being.

Aston Martin's Centenary Celebration models from Jaeger-LeCoultre

The partnership between Aston Martin and Jaeger-LeCoultre isn't just another cynical marketing exercise. the partnership in fact, began way back in the 20s when Jaeger made speedometres and dashboard instruments for a number of racing cars, including Bamford and Martin (what Aston Martin were known as until 1926).

Edmond Jaeger and Antoine LeCoultre actually met in 1907 when Mr Jaeger challenged Mr LeCoultre to make an ultra thin movement that he had designed. The brand Jaeger-LeCoultre officially came to being in 1937. Before then Jaeger focused on mainly producing various instruments.

Aston Martin and Jaeger-LeCoultre renewed the partnership in 2004, with a specific product line named "AMVOX" which could be taken to mean, "the voice of Aston Martin". The first model, Amvox Alarm, featured dial styling inspired by the dashboard instrument and was an instant success. The Amvox 2 chronograph brought a completely new interpretation on the chronograph function. Rather than having pushers on the side of the case, instead the activation is via pressing the crystal at 12 and 6:00 positions, where the case itself would 'tilt' to engage/disengage the chronograph. We reviewed the Amvox 2 here

For 2013, they've launched 3 timepieces to celebrate both Aston Marin's 100th anniversary. I wouldn't say new as none of the watches are completely new. Improved might be a better term, but I'm NOT going down the "new and improved" route.

First up is a new version of the Amvox 5 World Chrono, in the fancy "cermet" case which is made of a mixture of ceramic and aluminium, coated by more ceramic, making it lighter and stronger than titanium. (extremely scratch resistant and supposedly won't break if you drop it). The dial is very clean and legible and has all the usual Amvox design and style cues. The Amvox5 is a limited edition of 500.

The next two pieces are not from the Amvox line, but have been given enough of a facelift to have a new lease of life as Aston Martin co-branded watches. Personally I am very impressed with the Aston Martin version of the Master Hometime. As you might have realised JLC's Master range is generally produced with a silvery dial for steel pieces and either silvery or beige dial for gold. Black is reserved for limited series or the sportier watch range. But this new Hometime is certainly a home run. A minor re-shuffle of the date window to the 6:00 position and adding the "3" at 3:00, brings perfect symmetry to the dial. The AM badging is very subtle and the polished/brushed finish of the case is very refreshing. The red tip on the skeletonised second timezone hour hand is a welcome touch, and all in all just a very classy looking watch.

The Extreme World Alarm is limited to 100 pieces, and has a special case back engraving commemorating the 100th anniversary of Aston Martin. Apart from the case back, the dial has again very subtle badging - the logo placed on the cities dial where GMT (London) is. The dial itself is inspired by the grille of the car but other than that not much more to differentiate this from the regular production World Alarm.

To celebrate the centenary, Aston Martin is producing a special edition of the Vanquish, limited to 100 cars. The Vanquish Centenary edition features a special graduated paint finish that takes 50 hours to apply, sterling silver badges and door sill plates and glass keys (instead of acrylic).

The British car maker has also built a special one-off car called the CC100 Speedster Concept, with the styling paying homage to the legendary Aston Martin DBR1 race car from the 50s, while also offering a clue to future styling from the brand.