Friday, January 22, 2021

Hands On: Zenith Chronomaster Sport - LVMH Watch Week 2021

 The current Zenith Chronomaster range, formerly known as the El Primero range, has been a best seller for almost a decade, and almost unchanged. The classic, original 38mm size as well as the larger modern (at the time) 42mm were a mainstay and a consistent performer. It’s an icon of Zenith, with a distinctive at-a-glance tri-colour oversized sub dials and of course, the high beat of 36,000 VPH of the movement. It’s a style that has been around since the very first El Primero equipped model named A386 back in  1969, and as the saying goes, if it ain’t broke...


So why kill off such an iconic, much-loved classic watch? Rolex does ok making the same thing decade on decade. Subtle changes here and there, but the overall look and feel is almost the same. Omega Speedmaster hasn’t changed all that much either since 1957. These are definite examples of enduring classics, with only very minute detail updates. There are of course view points that one shouldn’t tamper with a classic, and others, who feel that if something remains the same it can become quite stale.


Design Evolution of the Chronomaster: 1969 A386, the 42mm version, the Chronomaster 2 from 2019


What if there’s a way to keep the iconic look, but freshen it up at the same time? What if, by combining a few icons from the past catalogue and in turn, bring about something that is both a nod to the past, but set to become a future icon in its own 

right? What if it’s possible to take an iconic product and make it even  more iconic and distinctive? Well, ladies and gents, wonder no more. Presenting, the new Zenith Chronomaster... SPORT.



At first glimpse, it is still distinctively identifiable as a Zenith, with the 3 (slightly) overlapping colour sub dials. Yes, the date window is still at 4:30. Ok, fine... With a second look, you see the pump pushers and the case shape and the chamfer of the edges remain. On closer inspection, the bezel might be reminiscent of the De Luca II, updated to the oh-so-21st century material of ceramic, but... something’s different. It’s not a tachymetre like it used to be. The markers, the numbers, the scale... wait... these are completely foreign... There’s nothing like it at all... what does it do?? Once you start the chronograph by pressing the pusher at 2:00, feel the crispness that only comes with a column wheel set up, and everything  becomes clear.



Watch the central chronograph seconds tick and the first thing you notice is that it’s a lot faster than you’re used to. In fact it’s 6 times faster, by doing a full revolution in 10 seconds. Now the scale on the bezel makes sense. It’s a simple and clear indication of one tenth of a second, something that can only be done due to the high beat of 36,000 vibrations per hour (10 beats per second).


 

This 1/10th of a second indication is made possible by an updated/upgraded/evolution of the El Primero movement, with a longer power reserve of 60 hours, and hacking seconds. In doing so they’ve unfortunately removed a quirk, which is the “back to front” time setting position of the crown. It is now the normal way around with date at position 1 and time change at position 2.



What about the rest of the watch? The case diametre is an immensely wearable 40.5mm, and with shortened lugs, the approx lug-to-lug of 46-7mm, meaning it will fit a lot more wrists as well as offering a better fit. The Chronomaster used to only really sell on a leather strap, but now, the bracelet is perfectly suited to the watch, and you still of course have the option of fitting a leather strap to it if you so wish. Overall watch is very well balanced, sits comfortably and to be quite honest, this could very well be an “only” watch, such is its versatility.



There are two dial options at launch, a clean white base dial, and the black lacquered dial which, matches the ceramic bezel perfectly. The white offers a brilliant contrast, especially with the black lacquer-filled indices and quite possibly, the better option to match with various different colour straps. The sub dials are layered, giving a bit of depth, and features circular guilloche. There is some lume but nothing compared to Zenith’s own Pilot type 20.


Own strap fitted. The white dial will come with a blue cordura style strap


The bracelet is meant to be inspired by the Gay Frere's ladder bracelet, but it's really an updated 3-link Chronomaster bracelet, polished centre links, and now with chamfered edges as well to match the case. The clasp has been changed to a more common single folding clasp with a locking mechanism and micro adjustments.



So the all important question: How does it wear on the wrist? Quite simply, one of the most comfortable watches I have ever worn. The size and proportions are perfect for me. The weight is just right. It can easily go with jeans or with a suit. Dial is highly legible. It feels like your favourite pair of worn in jeans that you’d be happy to live with daily, but it feels that way fresh from the box. Regardless of what you think of “sizing” I would strongly recommend putting it on the wrist first.



Overall, I think Zenith is on to a winner. It’s classically designed, with enough iconic features to make it distinctive; acknowledging the past whilst moving with the times. It is a lot of watch for the money and stacks up very well against its closest competitors. Will it gain the icon status? Only time will tell, but I have a good feeling about this.


The King is Dead. Long Live the King!



Zenith Chronomaster Sport


Reference: 03.3100.3600/69.M3100 White dial on bracelet

Reference: 03.3100.3600/21.M3100 Black dial on bracelet


Diametre: 40.5mm stainless steel case

Lug to lug: 47mm

Case height: 13mm

Water resistant: 100m

Power Reserve: 60 hours

Movement: Cal 3600, 36,000VPH automatic chronograph movement showing 1/10th of a second


Australian RRP: $14,300 on bracelet, $13,600 on strap


Available now:


Swiss Concept

Monards

The Hour Glass

Gregory Jewellers

Barbagallo Watch

Tuesday, January 12, 2021

NanoBlocks Vs Petit Blocks: The Block Comparo You Didn't Know You Needed Until Now

Look before we even begin, I am firmly in the Lego camp, having been brainwashed and brought up on it since I was a wee lil lad, but Legos are also expensive. And space consuming. And when space is at a premium, you downsize. Right? Mini doesn’t quite cut the mustard. You need to size down further... until you reach the nano stage! 


To be quite honest I only very lightly dabbled in Nanoblocks, partly due to its basic, blocky nature which can make certain object look cute, in a very low-res sort of way, but these tiny blocks ain’t cheap cheap either. A smallish, basic set will set you back $13 dollar bucks, and the bigger sets, well... 


They also lack the “clutch power” that Lego offers, meaning they can be quite flimsy, and at their size, if you accidentally break something and the pieces fly off, you’re not likely to see them again. Hence the generous amount of spare pieces included with each set. 

It wasn’t until the kids and I saw these Daiso “Petit Block” that piqued our interest. They looked exactly like Nanoblock, and at $2.80 a pack, who cares if they turn out to be rubbish? It was worth a punt. And punt we did. (It was also the school holidays so I was desperate for anything that might occupy them a while so I could have some peace and quiet.)

Imagine my surprise when they turned out to be a lot better than I’d hoped. The blocks fit very tight, which to young hands can be quite difficult to fit, but once fitted they don’t fall apart as easily as... With the initial impression being so positive, we then decided to invest more. But, how much alike are they? Obviously the Petit Block is the most sincere form of Nanoblock flattery, there are some subtle differences. I just happened to have the flamingo in both version, so a comparison is a must. 



These are two distinct interpretations of the flamingo, with the pose better on the Nanoblock and the colours slightly more realistic on the Petit block. Nano also uses round blocks for the neck, and has a sleeker overall design. The Petit Block though, having both legs firmly attached to the "water" is less likely to come part. Something else you don't notice until comparing the two side by side is the fact that the Petit Block is very slightly bigger than Nanoblock, so the two systems are unfortunately, incompatible.

NanoBlock Flamingo - AUD$12.99

Overall, straight out of the bag, the designs of the Petit Block leaves much to to be desired but this is the thing about blocks. You can change it. Make it look better, or have a better stance. You are only limited by your imagination. No need to follow the instructions if you feel like you can do a better job. And therein lies the rub. At $2.80 a packet you could buy multiples and let your imagination run wild in the world of 8-bit-esque 3D block party, without feeling the pinch. Your wallet and your sanity will thank you.  Whereas with Nanoblock, you feel obliged to build what is offered and instructed, and because it’s so flimsy, you are half tempted to just glue the whole thing and leave it on display.  

Daiso Petit Block -Flamingo AUD$2.80

Ultimately it comes down to you and what you want to build. Petit Block is inexpensive but it is the more limiting in terms of range of colours, choice and types of blocks. However, there are enough options and definitely a great way for anyone to be creative on a tight space and monetary budget.

Monday, January 4, 2021

The Sydney Tarts Top 10 Sneakers for 2020

2020 has been an interesting year for me in terms of sneakers. It went from a year when I was suppose to go through a period of consolidation (due to lack of storage space…) to a year of… let’s just blame it on the ‘rona shall we? I went a bit nuts and any semblance of self control went out the door (when we were stuck indoors…) The sensible part of me feels that any sneaker that didn’t make my top 10, i really should off load right? But that’s something else for another day perhaps. 

I suppose 2020 for me could be classified into 2 categories of sneakers - retros and collabs. Retros are self-explanatory and it’s not new. Collabs? To be honest I cannot be arsed to chase nor am I comfortable paying silly prices for the hottest and overhyped ones, but there are plenty of other interesting designs that for one reason or another aren’t as sought after and as a result, you can them up without a second mortgage. 


Here we go with the top 10 pick-ups for 2020, in no particular order.



1. Reebok Shaqnosis



The first pick-up for 2020 makes the list because it pulls at the nostalgic strings - The Reebok Shaqnosis was polarisingly styled, and yet so distinctive it became a classic almost immediately. I was a fan of Shaq back in the days, and my absolute favourite Shaq signature sneaker has to be the Reebok Shaq Attaq, but it did take a while for me to warm up to the Shaqnosis. It’s not something you would just put on and go out, and it’s definitely not something I would wear on court anymore. I was very indecisive on it the last time it retroed but there was no hesitation this time ‘round. It’s not something for everyday wear of course, but it definitely brings back fond memories of my youth and a time when basketball was a big part of my life, (and also a time when we couldn’t afford any of the big name sneakers, so making up for it now…)



2. Nike x Undercover Daybreak 



This was a collaboration that was firmly in the shadow of the other, much more hyped but similarly executed one of the Sacai Vapor Waffle. Now before you all start to comment about how different they are, let me be clear this is my way of comforting myself for not being able to afford the Sacai collab. To be honest I’m just as happy with this as it can be had at a huge discount, and one I’ve worn number of times this year.



3. Nike LeBron x James Elliot Icon QS




Would this count as a triple collab? I believe the first drop of these sold out really quickly but for some reason the second drop with fresh colorways just sat? Was it a matter of overestimating the demand and thus over-saturating the market? Not that it matters to me as I was able to pick these up for a song. For some reason the full length air isn’t as soft as I remember given it’s the same tooling as the regular LeBrons 7-8. But maybe it’s because I’ve not broken them in properly yet.



4. Adidas x Alexander Wang Bball Soccer 



This is a collab upon collab sneaker this one. Adidas x Alexander Wang as well as Basketball x Soccer. It’s the definition of hybrid! Even the outsole is a hybrid of boost and…whatever the other stuff is. But the sneakers are surprisingly comfortable, the quality is top notch, and being less dramatic as some of his other works, it’s actually more timeless and easier to match.



5. Nike Air Max 2 CB34



Let’s move away from collabs and get back to retros for a bit. Jordan retros went nuts this year, and people tell me it’s due to the documentary “The Last Dance” which got people interested in Air Jordans again and as everyone was locked down, might as well buy the sneakers as a form of escape? This meant other historically significant retros sat on the shelves long enough for me to pick up at retail. This was one of the more iconic sneakers for me personally and it’s something I’ve always wanted to have, even though with all the max air it still feels like a brick. So no, definitely won’t be playing in these. Not even an everyday sneaker, given it’s a bit tough to get in and out of, but this is the price for nostalgia.



6. Y-3 BYW S97



I went through a bit of an Y-3 phase this year. I do like some of the less outlandish designs from Yohji Yamamoto, and even though the retail pricing is very high for what you get, almost all the styles go on sale (minus some of the more popular styles, but then I can do without them). When they are on sale, they’re decent value for money, and the favourite out of all the Y-3 this year would have to be the BYW S97. It strikes a good balance between classic, subtle design, with comfort and brand name… 



7. Converse Chuck Taylor CX Disrupt



Chuck Taylors are probably the longest serving retro sneaker range currently available, and every once in a while Converse mixes it up and do something interesting based on the classic silhouette. Now I have nothing against Chucks, and I have owned several pairs in the past, but there are more interesting stuff out there. So apart from the occasional limited editions, they don’t really hold my interest until now. This was something very different; a modern, yet retro futuristic design, at the same time addressing two of my biggest gripes about the Chucks - they’ve made it much easier to put on (ie without the need to untie and retie the laces) and comfort. Yes I know they’ve had the Chuck 2s where they experimented with lunarlon insole that didn’t seem to sell, which was bewildering to me, and the Chuck 70s which I admit, are comfortable. But whatever the formula for the CX foam is works great for me. It’s supportive and compliant without being to overtly bouncy or squishy. Oh, and the stretch canvas? a godsend!! Makes it so much easier to put on and take off. This was definitely something that has been missing. Easily one of my favourites for this year and it has seen plenty of wear. 



8. Adidas Streetball



This was a very pleasant surprise. I’ve liked the look of it, but a lot of the colour combos had been a bit too colourful for me. But when these popped up with further discount off sale prices, it was a no brainer. And that they’re comfortable to boot is a bonus. Despite its name, I won’t be playing street ball in these though, as there is no lockdown to speak of. Casual wear however, is perfectly fine.



9. Converse Chuck Taylor Bugs Bunny 80th Anniversary Limited Edition



Quite possibly the only pair of sneakers this year that I probably won’t wear. Bugs Bunny was a part of my afternoon after school. Along with Sophie Lee. Ahem. To be honest, right now, anything that is nostalgic for me is pretty much a “shut up and take my money” prospect. I especially like that Bug’s cheeky personality comes through on the sneakers. Much like the Homer Simpsons Chuck Taylor I have from a few years back - these will most likely remain a pair of “collection/display” sneakers.



10. Air Jordan 3 Denim



This was an unexpected find actually. I was on lunch break one day and decided to pop into the George Street Footlocker to have a look, given I haven’t been in for a while. I saw someone else was trying on a pair of the Jordan 3 Denims. I thought they’d all sold out on release, so I tried my luck and asked the staff whether they had any left in my size. He went out back and brought out the last pair they had. My size! Given how difficult retro Jordans were to come by these days, and to be able to get a classic one with pretty decent colour blocking, AND at a discount for being a member, well… I couldn’t say no…


There are a few late additions for 2020 (December 31st to be exact) which will still count towards 2020 pick-ups, except I won’t take delivery for at least another week or so. Why such a splurge right on the last day? Because I am going to try and be disciplined and do this year what I was supposed to do in 2020, which was to consolidate, and so a literal last minute splurge before the self-imposed disciplinary action… But I will do a review on them once I receive them, and I’m cautiously optimistic that they won’t be disappointing (unlike a number of pairs this year).

Wednesday, November 18, 2020

Quick Look: Seiko Prospex Shogun SPB189J1

If I were to choose a click-baity kind of title this would have been something like, “You would be shocked at the price of this Seiko!” but this is not that kind of a website, and as much as I would like to just poke fun and use that title, I won’t.

I came across images of this new release and I was intrigued. It looked fantastic! As a fan and owner of numerous Seiko pieces I thought this was another piece I wouldn’t hesitate to add to the collection. It hits all the marks for me… until I saw the price.

Seiko Prospex SPB189J1

Now it is true and for those who known me well, knows that I am a sucker for nostalgia and I do tend to dwell in the past more than I do in the present… Yes I’m one of those that talks about the good ol’ days (well that goes for all you Rolex-heads as well. You know who you are.) When I first began in retail in the industry, almost 2 decades ago, an Omega Seamaster Professional 300m automatic (better known as the Bond watch) went for RRP of $3100 Aussie dollarbucks. The most expensive Seiko we had in the store was a $750 Seiko kinetic perpetual of sorts (not the funky one with the 4 separate dials.) That watch sat because the vast majority of the Seikos sold in the store was around $150-$200.

My Seiko Prospex Shogun Zimbe Limited Edtion.

How times have changed.   

What’s the point? I’m getting to it. 

The watch in question is the updated Seiko Shogun (Reference SPB189J1 – remember Seiko doesn’t deal in nicknames. The enthusiasts christen watches with names but… officially…) This seems like the same case and bracelet as the previous generations, with an updated movement and longer power reserve, new dial and hands. Oh, and a big fuss made about the matched date disc colour.

I really like the look. I think the refined hands matches the new triangular indices, and the case is nicely designed and produced. It has gone from a Rolex-esque styling to having an identity of its own. A definitely improvement but I can’t help feel that it might be a little too similar to its sibling now - the “Samurai”. The bracelet still looks and feels like it belongs more on a $100 watch than something with 4 figures, but I guess you are paying for the titanium, the hard coating and the finishing on the case. Judging from the images it certainly won’t look out of place next to a Seamaster or a Tudor. Now if only they would put a bit more effort into the bracelet…

Long gone are the days when the Shogun could be had for around $1000 (before the re-branding to become part of the Prospex line) and even then, one could be had for around $1500, but at that price point it really was only for the Seiko enthusiasts and not the general public. However, credit where it’s due – Seiko has done wonders moving the brand image up the price point. And whether or not you feel it is justified, it’s where they are now positioning the brand.

Seiko SBDC007 - the OG Shogun, with the cursive "Automatic" text and SCUBA at 6:00

Head over to Fratello Watches for some really fantastic pics of the watch. Unless of course, Seiko Australia, you're willing to send me one for some more lifestyle photoshoots? 

Seiko Prospex SPB189J1
RRP: 1550 Euro (Approx $2500 AUD)
Case: Titanium 42mm diameter, 13.3mm height, titanium bracelet
Movement: 6R35, 70 hours power reserve
Water Resistance 200m

Wednesday, November 11, 2020

On The Wrist: Zenith Chronomaster 42mm Blue Dial

We all know that the tri-colour subdial Zenith Chronomaster with the silvery base dial is a modern classic, with only slight alterations to the case and dial over the past 50-odd years. The classic look, however, may not be for everyone. Just like not everyone wants the classic Speedy moonwatch (gasp horror). 

The blue dial version of the Chronomaster was launched in 2016, alongside the dark grey version as well as a “classic car” version, with vertical Geneva stripe finishing on the slate grey dial, mimicking the finishing on car engines. These were an attempt to offer some variations on the theme and to offer alternatives. Did you know, however, that there were actually multiple dial versions of this watch?


Now it never ceases to amaze me just how Rolex is able to garner headlines and in-depth articles out of mere changes in millimetres. I mean, surely there are more important things, even in the watch world, to talk about? Another thing that really gets the the discussion going are the subtle differences in dials/date fonts/text sizes/lines of text/colours of text etc, and each can be discussed in so much detail they almost warrant a thesis. Not to mention the sort of effect on the resale value. So what are the versions exactly?

Version 1: This has the red 36,000VPH line of text underneath Zenith and El Primero at the 12:00 position. Rumour has it that the red text only ever appeared on the prototypes, but there have been a handful spotted out in the wild, meaning there must have been pieces in this configuration that were sold through to retail stores. How rare is it? Who knows? There are no numbers provided and I doubt Zenith will ever provide the numbers.

Version 1: Red 36,000Vph text at 12:00. 6:00 sub dial over 9:00 and 3:00 counters


Version 2: This one goes without the red 36,000VPH text on the dial and has the “wrong” configuration of the 12-hour counter overlapping the running seconds and the minute counter at 9:00 and 3:00 positions respectively. Believed to be produced only for around a year (mid-2016 to mid-2017) before the next version came along.

Version 2: 12: sub dial over the 9:00 and 3:00 sub dials, no 36,000Vph text

Version 3: Final version with the “corrected” dial layout – 9:00 and 3:00 subdials overlapping the 6:00 subdial – thus makes it easier to read the markers for the minute counter (rather than having several minutes obscured). This version was produced from mid-2017 until mid-2019, when the “coloured” models of the Chronomaster range were phased out.


Version 3: 6:00 sub dial is under the 3:00 and 9:00 subdials (image from the Zenith Watch Forum FB Group)
 

There are still a few of these pieces hanging about at dealers, so have a good close look at the versions using this article as a guide. You never know when you might stumble upon the single red, which I reckon will have the potential to be as sought after as the Rolex double red.

But there’s more…

There is apparently another version with the word “automatic” printed in the 6:00 subdial. I was assured by experts that it exists even though a search through Google yielded nothing. I have seen all the other 3 versions, but this one may just be the unicorn in the Chronomaster range and perhaps, worth seeking out as it may prove to be a decent long-term investment perhaps?

Having said all that, what’s it like on the wrist? I’m sure the purists will scream that 38mm is the only way to go, that it’s the perfect size for the wrist, etc etc. But not everyone’s tastes are the same. And to be honest, although I personally think the 38mm wears bigger than the actual figure suggests, the 42mm also sits nicely, and gives a much more modern look and feel. The date window at 6:00 in the 42mm version is also much neater and better resolved compared to the 4:30 position on the 38mm. Other than that, the case shares the brushed and polished finishing, with the all-important see-through case back. The dial is fully legible, and it really comes down to whether you like the overlapping sub dials or not.



Pushers feel a little stiff for a column wheel chrono; it doesn’t have as much springiness to it, compared to a similarly aged Omega Speedmaster Cal 321, but it is still vastly better compared to a cam and lever chrono. I’m not a fan of the style of folding clasp used on the watch, but then again, I’ve always preferred a pin buckle as they tend to sit flatter, but you do run the risk of possibly dropping the watch when you’re putting it on/taking it off the wrist.  

Overall it’s a fantastic version of the classic tri-colour sub dial Chronomaster; to be something a little different and, given its short production run, you’re not likely to run into someone with the same watch.


Zenith Chronomaster El Primero 42mm
Reference: 03.2040.400/51.C700
Movement: Automatic Calibre 400 El Primero, 36,000vph, 50 hours power reserve
RRP: AU$11,400 on alligator strap/folding clasp; $12,000 on bracelet
 

Sunday, September 27, 2020

2020 Green Dial Watches Part 2: Top 10 With Complications

To continue our look at green watches launched in 2020, part 2 focuses on watches with complications.

1. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore

This year we have yet another variation of the extremely successful Offshore range, in black 44mm ceramic case and bezel, and powered by the in-house Calibre 3126/3840 with 59 jewels, 21,600 vph and a power reserve of 50 hours. 


2. Breitling Chronomat

The Chronomat played an important part in Breitling's history. Introduced in 1984, when the world was still reeling from the quartz crisis, it was launched as a bold mechanical watch that would become an icon of its era. The new version recalls all the classic styling cues from the 1980s and features the in-house B01 calibre, with 70 hours power reserve and COSC-certified.


3. Bvlgari Octo Roma Tourbillon Sapphire Malachite Watch

This is a stunning watch with Malachite used not just for the indices but also in the middle case. Paired to a green strap I think overall, it qualifies for the green watch theme. A classy case with a restrained skeletonisation, coupled with baguette cut diamonds set in the bezel and lugs, it’s high jewellery without being blingy, and with an in-house tourbillon to boot, it has the brains to go with the beauty. 44mm platinum case is no lightweight either. Limited to just 30 pieces. 


4. Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar Forest Green

This is a classic that we all know, but with a gorgeous green dial to be in fashion. 40mm stainless steel case with the dial retaining its original display guided by the Golden Ratio. Powered by the in-house Calibre 90-02, an automatic movement with an off-centred rotor, following the shape of the typically German 3/4 plate. 



5. Grand Seiko "Toge" Special Edition

This new model takes inspiration from the Japanese and British legacies of the two respective companies, combining classic British Racing Green with the fine texture of Grand Seiko's signature Mount Iwate dial. The term 峠 (Tōgè), or mountain pass, refers to a navigable route through a mountain range, and this special edition timepiece subtly evokes the image of a spirited drive over the many ridges of Mount Iwate in Northern Japan. Movement is the Japanese automatic Grand Seiko in-house Calibre 9S66 with a power reserve of 3 days.  



6. Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Saxem 

Ok not quite a green dial per se, but the whole damn watch is about as green as they come! SAXEM stands for Sapphire Aluminium oXide and rare Earth Mineral and is, as the names indicates, an alloy that is the mixture of aluminium oxide (the building block of synthetic sapphire) with rare earth minerals such as thulium, holmium and chromium. Powered by the legendary Zenith El Primero movement, it is limited to 100 pieces. 


7. IWC Portugieser Chronograph

This is the Classic Portugieser chrono, with in-house movement and a very much on-trend for 2020 green dial. 41mm stainless steel case, power reserve of 46 hours.



8a. H. Moser X MB&F Endeavour Cylindical Tourbillon
 
H. Moser & Cie. has borrowed from MB&F the concept of three-dimensional movements, protected by a sapphire dome and featuring a one-minute flying tourbillon that rises above the main dial through a ventricular opening appearing at 12 o'clock. H. Moser & Cie. has equipped its tourbillon with a cylindrical balance spring, invented in the 18th century, it is reminiscent of a worm- or corkscrew, rising perpendicularly around the upper rod of the balance staff. Commonly used in historical marine chronometers at the time, it offers the advantage of developing concentrically, and therefore geometrically, since it works perfectly along the axis of its pivots. This gives it a significant advantage over the flat balance spring, whose opposite ends tend to exert forces on the pivots, despite the Philips or Breguet terminal curves which were specifically developed to partially correct the non-concentric opening of the balance spring. Fitted with a Breguet overcoil at both attachment points, the cylindrical balance spring reduces pivot friction and greatly improves isochronism. Due to its specific shape, the cylindrical balance spring is far more difficult to produce and takes ten times longer to make than a traditional balance spring. Limited to 15 pieces each colour. 


8b. MB&F x H. Moser LM101 

The Legacy Machine 101 distils the very quintessence of mechanical watchmaking: the balance wheel, the power reserve and the passing of time. MB&F has chosen to remove its logo and return to its roots and the origins of horology, when only the movements were signed. The fumé dials are borrowed from H. Moser & Cie. Topped with a domed sapphire crystal, the case is made of steel, for only the third time in the history of MB&F. Limited to 15 pieces each colour.


9. Ressence Type 1 Slim X

The new Type 1 Slim X is a limited-edition piece marking its 10th anniversary. Ressence continues to change the way and the why we experience watches by introducing the first piece of their X collection. 
Visually Ressence created a dedicated symbol for the collection that is the fusion of an X, or ten in Latin, and an hourglass. It sits proudly on the hour disc of the Type 1 Slim X. Each of the four watches of the Collection X is limited to 40 pieces and shares the main dark olive-green color. 42mm case in titanium, powered by Ressence patented calibre ROCS 1 - Ressence Orbital Convex System with a  power reserve of 36 hours. 


10. Tag Heuer Carrera Heuer 02

Hey look I really like this. I don’t know why there is always this hate for Tag Heuer watches and it always seems to be universally poo-pooed by “collectors”. This latest version of the Carrera is powered by the in-house Heuer 02 movement and to me, a much classier look which straddles modernity and timelessness quite nicely. I think This will age well compared to the skeletonised versions. But YMMV. it’s a nice shade of green and with the steel bezel, it works really well. Now if they’ll just refocus their marketing strategy...