Tuesday, July 28, 2020

New Model: Tudor Royal 2020 Quick Look and Full Pricing


Given the plethora of non-round steel luxury sports watches available in the market, Tudor thought, why not? Let’s dust off an old name plate and cash in on this madness. Heck, Maurice Lacroix did so well with their 80s/90s inspired Aikon, why not do the same thing? Good thing though. There are other coloured dials to be had. 


Maurice Lacroix Aikon Auto 42mm, Sellita SW200 Movt, AUD$2400


From all accounts this model is a limited regional release, for the Asian (read: Chinese) markets only, and that is why Jay Chou, brand ambassador, was chosen to write and direct the advertisement for it (look it up on Jay Chou's instagram). It seems to be a relatively subdued launch, without all the fanfare usually associated with Rolex and Tudor. Perhaps the current depressed economic climate and low consumer confidence due to the pandemic has something to do with it? Or the fact that there was no Baselworld this year?



The watch comes in 4 different sizes, to suit all different shaped and sized wrists. So all of you out there (you know who you are) who feel 41mm is too big and 38mm is too small, then... you're outta luck here and best try the Maurice Lacroix Aikon, which now comes in a 39mm case size! Note, if you want the day-date look, it is only available in 41mm size.


However, let’s give credit where it’s due. If you want a 90s inspired blue dial stainless steel sports watch with integrated bracelet, you could do much worse than the aforementioned Maurice Lacroix. Bloody well priced too. But if you MUST have a Rolex Datejust or an Oysterquartz but can’t stump up enough dough for either, and you’re perfectly happy with a Tudor branding and an ETA movement inside (not that there’s anything wrong with these - they’re reliable workhorses), then Tudor has your number, and this is the exact watch for you. 

Oysterquartz 19019 white gold day-date, image: antiquorum.swiss


Spex:


Tudor Royal 41mm

ETA 2834 movement, 38 hours power reserve.100m water resistant. 

Price: Approx AUD$3500 in steel, AUD$5000 steel/gold




Tudor Royal 38mm

ETA 2824 movement, 38 hours power reserve. 100m water resistant

Price: Approx AUD$3400 in steel, AUD$5900 steel/gold




Tudor Royal 34mm

ETA 2824 movement, 38 hours power reserve, 100m water resistant

Price: Approx AUD$3350 in steel, AUD$5900 in steel/gold




Tudor Royal 28mm

ETA 2671 movement, 38 hours power reserve, MOP dial and diamond indices, 100m water resistant

Price: Approx AUD$4250 in steel, AUD$6000 in steel/gold




Friday, July 24, 2020

Industry News: MCH unveils its new platform - HOURUNIVERSE (previously Baselworld)

You may have heard the news that MCH is re-branding Baselworld, because apparently it's had such bad press and negative associations that it was deemed necessary to cut loose and set adrift. REALLY? AND THIS NEW BRANDING IS ANY BETTER? And whilst the fair includes not just watches, but also jewellery and gemstones, this new name isn't exactly all-inclusive. On the contrary. I'm sure this will go down nicely with all the jewellery, gemstone, packaging, accessories and machinery supplies exhibitors.



I mean, who came up with the name? Baselworld 2.0 would've been better. Or heck, even Baselverse. This seriously drew a collective face palm from pretty much everyone in the industry. And I'm sure they've just sent even more brands over to Watch and Wonders, whose name is at least much more inclusive in the term "wonders" which could be applied to just about everything.

View of Basel

So we thought the final nail had already been well and truly hammered when COVID-19 hastened the discontinuation of Baselworld, but now? It's been sent through the furnace and only ashes remain. Sorry Murdoch - you bought a pile of burnt up rubble... The issues with Baselworld was that the fair format had outstayed its welcome and was no longer relevant in today's world. Not to mention the price gouging. From everyone. From the fair itself, to the surrounding hotels and restaurant. Gouge. The brand was never the issue. All they had to do was listen to the exhibitors who each paid exorbitant sums of Swiss Francs in order to participate in the show. They're the customers that MCH should be listening to. All of them. The brands know what is needed and what is required for them to return to a show that will benefit all. But no. Rebranding. That'll fix everything...

Messe Basel - Venue of Baselworld


I don't usually like to regurgitate the whole press release but this was so bad it's... no... it's just bad. 

Here it is in full (and please pay particular attention to the final 3 words):

MCH is creating a new concept for a global platform for the watch, jewellery and gemstone industries: HOURUNIVERSE.
Two months to listen, analyse, identify; and create. An innovative platform to meet today's needs. To unite and support a whole community that wants to regroup, make a new start and is receptive to change.

Open, modern, experimental, inclusive, user-friendly, interconnected, the MCH teams have put all their expertise and the feedback and input from customers and other stakeholders into giving birth to a new platform concept.

An extended ecosystem  

Live and virtual, active all year round, benefiting from the latest technologies for content, and for networking, the new platform is dedicated to players in the watch, jewellery and gemstone industries, but not exclusively.

The new concept is a B2B2C meeting point that places the customer at the heart of its focus, reversing the order of the past. The entire platform is thought out and designed around the customer. This applies to all players of the distribution chain, traditional and online retailers, including those of the CPO (certified Pre-Owned). 

Flanking them, the platform will build an extended ecosystem with watch, jewellery and gemstone brands, developers of new solutions in distribution, marketing and points of sale, and other players of the industry. A global, varied, interconnected, unified world.

A 365 platform, with an annual live meeting

Named HOURUNIVERSE, the platform will be digitally active throughout the year and will host an annual live show. 

A community platform that creates bridges between buyers and sellers and all the players in the industry, it is also a place that encourages exchanges, information-sharing, content creation, reflection through talks and conferences that also provide visibility for brands and their products. 

In April 2021, the community will meet at HOURUNIVERSE in Basel, Switzerland. The show will be aligned with the watchmaking events in Geneva, in the best interests of the international community which will only have to travel to Switzerland once a year.

The show will reinforce contacts thanks to new tools, the creation of content, a maximum of Touch & Feel experiences, as well as moments of conviviality, networking and fully integrated events. Along with this new customer-oriented approach, a new competitive hospitality concept will also be an integral part of the packages proposed, and those associated players of Basel life will not be exempt from this involvement.

The detailed concept of HOURUNIVERSE will be unveiled late August in combination with the start of marketing.

 
HOURUNIVERSE: IT'S WE TIME!

Tuesday, July 21, 2020

Feature: Sporty Roman Numeral Watches Part 1 - Romain Jerome Steampunk 46

Who said watches with Roman numerals has to be dressy? 


There seems to be a preconception that watches with Roman numerals are dressy. Think Cartier. Off the top of my head, Cartier has really made the Roman numeral design their own, especially when combined with a rectangular case. A cursory Google search seems to also confirm that the vast majority of watch brands utilises Roman numerals to “dress up” their models.


One might pose the question whether Roman numerals always makes a watch look dressier? Are there instances where the watch errs on the side of casual, Maybe even sporty, with a large diameter case? ask no more. In the following 3-part series, we will look at 3 watches all with Roman numerals, in 3 very different interpretations, and none of them can really be described as “dressy”. Maybe you could get away with wearing the with a suit, but I doubt any of them would fit in with a black tie event. (In the traditional sense. We’re not talking Aussie black tie, which can mean anything from a tux to jeans, t-shirt, sports jacket and sneakers.)


Part the first:


Romain Jerome Steampunk 46 - 2015




I still remember the first time I came to know Romain Jerome. And my reaction is far from favourable. The watch? The titanic DNA. the reaction? Let's just say it was NSFW. Well. NSFAnything really... however, something that polarising definitely sticks in your mind and over the years RJ has broadened their horizon to include some incredible pieces such the subcraft, to the extremely niche market Hello Kitty watches... and somewhere in between, watches that appealed to my childhood nostalgia such as the Space Invaders and the Super Mario Bros... Let’s just say that I’ve come to appreciate its quirks and its audacity to be so different in a seemingly still-quite-conservative Swiss Watch industry. Yeah I know there are a lot of so-called self-anointed “disruptors” but who are we kidding? Most of the industry is still extremely traditional, despite what their marketing material may say.




It is however, quite saddening to hear of their bankruptcy earlier this year, as well, their funding dried up in the very trying luxury market, especially for an independent niche brand such as RJ, and all the more depressing especially when I've had the opportunity to meet some of the really lovely people working for the brand at Baselworld (when it was still around...) Hopefully the brand will somehow find its way back, but in the meantime, let's have a look at one of the more distinctive designs from the brand. 


This might be an entry level sort of watch, but by no means does it mean cheap and cheerful. Far from it. The moment you hold the piece in your hand you know you have something quite special. You feel it in its weight. You see it in the details, and you definitely notice it in your wallet. Comes with the territory of being a limited production run. This version? Just 999 pieces. There are a couple of other versions; a shinier polished steel case and one in 18k rose gold.




Now I’ve always had a soft spot for everything steampunk and retro futuristic style. I think calling this piece steampunk is probably stretching the term a little, but I am very taken with the style, and now that they’ve tossed the “rusted” bezel look of the titanic, it works even better with just a smooth, albeit somewhat aged industrial look, nicely juxtaposed with the smooth black case claws and shiny screws on the dial. 


Speaking of the dial; yes there is a dial, even though at first glance it might seem skeletonised. In closer inspection there is no hint of the movement, but multiple layers of patterns, in different finishing, which gives it a subtle three-dimension design. Although the OCD in me may prefer a completely symmetrical look, I do like the fact the small propeller running seconds at 9:00 position acts as a charming small reminder of its beginnings as a ship-themed watch. 




The strap is usually the first thing to come off a watch for me, but in this instance, one major obstacle stopped me from doing so... I didn’t know how. It’s not the usual arrangement of spring bar, strap, and lugs. Apparently one needs to use a special tool to remove the strap. Whilst I wait for said missing tool to arrive, I have no choice but to wear the OEM Strap. And it’s actually not a bad thing. It tapers from being quite thick at the lugs to thin and soft at the other end. It holds the shape and supports the watch quite well, at the same time being very comfortable to wear. One thing I didn’t like is the folding clasp (and RJ aren’t alone in this) which felt cheap and flimsy. So off it came and a sturdy, thick pin buckle I had lying around went on. Perfect. 




The watch comes with a solid case back, making identifying the beating heart that much more difficult. According to the internet, it’s built by LaJoux-Perret or Concepto on a Valjoux 7750 base, meaning it should be relatively reliable but not exactly “uh-house”. Does that turn you off? It depends on what you want out of a watch movement. As nice as an in-house movement is, sometimes you just want something simple, reliable, and most important aspect of all - serviceability. A competent watchmaker will be able to service simple. Complications, well... can be complicated and lead to unwanted um... complications...




Despite its outlandish styling, and seeming large-watch size, the watch as a whole is quite stealthy, helped by the use of matte black case and black strap. I was hoping to put a vintage dark brown calf strap on the watch to bring out the steampunk vibe even more. Its relatively short lug-to-lug length makes it much more wearable than the diameter suggest, and yes, it sits very well and comfortable on the wrist. It is not a watch that will have mass appeal and it doesn’t need to. Given the relatively low production run and the uncertainty over the brand’s future, chances of seeing a Romain Jerome watch in the wild is likely to remain in the realm of a steel Daytona in stock for retail.




Lug to lug 48mm

Diameter 46mm

USD 12500 or approx AUD 19000

Friday, July 10, 2020

The Definitive Guide to Watches in Formula 1: 2020 Edition

Formula 1 for 2020 is back on! And what a start to the season with an excitement and drama-filled first race of the season in Austria! So we thought it was time we updated our feature on watches in Formula 1. Can you believe the last time we did a post on this topic it was back in 2013! Certainly a lot has changed since then, so without further ado, it's LIGHTS OUT AND AWAY WE GO!!!

Rolex - The official timing partner for Formula 1 since 2013, and continues to dominate all the track landscapes with the corporate green and gold logo. 



Pirelli - The official supplier of tyres for all the teams. Pirelli has a partnership with Roger Dubuis, and there are models specifically made in collaboration where the strap is made from actual tyres of race winning cars.


Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Pirelli

And now, in order of the current Constructor's Championship standing so far in 2020 (after the first race), here are the watch partners for each team:

1. Mercedes - IWC has been a partner with Mercedes-AMG team since 2013 and it seems to be a very successful partnership as they continue into 2020 and possibly beyond. Numerous limited editions has been produced for both the teams and the drivers, with Lewis Hamilton taking the additional step in customising his own version. IWC watches can also be seen on numerous top management in the team including Toto Wolfe and various engineers/team members.




IWC limited edition Pilot watches for Mercedes-AMG


2. McLaren Renault - It's so refreshing to see McLaren so high up in the standings after many years languishing mid-pack. Let's hope this new trend continues. The official watch partner is Richard Mille, who himself is a fan of racing and races classic cars himself. Amazingly Richard has cornered the market, partnering up with three teams on the grid. The partnership with McLaren extends to drivers in the team both wearing Richard Mille timepieces.

The RM50-03 - valued at just under USD$1 million


3. Ferrari has a long standing partnership with Hublot and again, it is one that is working extremely well for both parties, as Ferrari owners are very much Hublot owners. Numerous limited editions produced, as well as watches designed by Ferrari like the Hublot TechFrame.



4. Racing Point BWT Mercedes - Formerly Force India, we have mentioned before regarding their partnership with TW Steel. This was followed by an obscure "lifestyle" partnership with Felio Siby, who designed an even more obscure watch, powered by a movement from Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier. This didn't last long and after Force India went into administration in 2018, and was taken over by a consortium lead by billionaire Lawrence Stroll, it's had no watch partnerships. 

Felio Siby Force India Watch


The current drivers for Racing Point, however, do wear watches and Sergio Perez is even a bit of a watch collector. He has admitted to owning around 20 timepieces and each of them were purchased for special occasions as a memento, the first one for the first salary that he received, followed by first podium, first child, etc. He has been quite diplomatic in not mentioning any brands. However, a quick dig around the interwebs revealed a few stand outs. Franc Vila presented Perez his very own watch back in 2010, when he announced his debut with Sauber for the following year in F1. Of course, when you drive for Sauber, you had to represent the team's watch partner which was Certina. When Perez went over to McLaren in 2013 he had TAG Heuer watches, and I'm assuming he had to wear TW Steel with Force India.

And Lance Stroll? He's had an Oris watch from his days at Williams, but no watches right now at Racing Point, but given he's the son of a billionaire...

Franc Vila Sergio Perez

5. Alpha Tauri Honda - Previously Scuderia Toro Rosso, or Red Bull junior, they've had an ongoing partnership with Casio Edifice. Given this season has only just started we're yet to see a proper Alpha Tauri watch, as Casio is still marketing the previous Toro Rosso edition.

The 2020 Alpha Tauri F1 Car

Casio Edifice Toro Rosso


6. Renault - The partnership with Bell and Ross has been going for a few years now, and again, there is a certain synergy between the brands. Also, both being French probably helps too. The Bell and Ross watches for the Renault F1 team over the years has always been quite striking and distinctive, using various F1 design motifs and team colours as inspiration. The drivers are given a limited edition watch that corresponds to their racing number.

Bell & Ross BR X-1 Tourbillon R.S.20
 
7. Alfa Romeo Racing Ferrari - The second team partnered with Richard Mille. Kimi Raikkonen, one of the drivers for the team, has his own Richard Mille watch. In more recent times, Alfa Romeo only returned to F1 racing in 2018, as a title sponsor for the Sauber team. It last competed in F1 back in 1985. From 2019 onwards, Alfa Romeo took over the team completely the and Sauber name was dropped from the entry list. Certina used to be a long standing watch partner with Sauber team. 



Richard Mille RM50-04 Kimi


8. Williams Mercedes - Oris was a long time partner with Williams until they shifted their focus to more eco-friendly initiatives. There is currently no watch partner for Williams, although it seems driver George Russell is wearing an IWC Pilot, possibly due to his ties with Mercedes as a factory-backed driver, and Nicholas Latifi, being the son of multi-billionaire Michael Latifi, can probably buy whatever watch he wants. Latifi is the owner of Sofina Foods and invested 200 million Euro back in 2018 for a 10 percent stake in McLaren Group. Sofina is also the main sponsor for the team this year and quite possibly may become the owner.

George Russell (Left) seen wearing an IWC Pilot in 2019. Can't tell what Robert Kubica is wearing though.


9. Aston Martin Red Bull Racing - TAG Heuer has been a partner with Red Bull ever since they parted ways with McLaren. Red Bull was with Casio, and they still are via their junior team, Alpha Tauri. TAG Heuer has close ties to F1 and was at one stage the official timekeeper for Formula 1 (as Heuer, back in 1974 and remained until the end of the decade, when it passed the torch to Longines). One of the best selling lines of watches from TAG Heuer is actually called "Formula 1". 
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Red Bull Special Edition

10. HAAS - the third team with ties to Richard Mille, and a team that's going through really tough times on track. Partnership extends to drivers, both of whom can be seen wearing RM timepieces.

HAAS F1 team

And there you have it. 2020 will be an interesting year for Formula 1, as they deal with the aftermath of the Coronavirus and work out the best way to get the race numbers up. There are also a number of changes coming up in 2021, with Racing Point becoming the official Aston Martin racing team, and the possibility of Williams changing hands... one thing is for sure. Formula 1 is never lacking in drama and we hope to bring you another edition of watches in Formula 1 next year.

Sunday, July 5, 2020

Profile: Anita Porchet


Anita Porchet - Portrait from thenakedwatchmaker.com

What do you think of when the word ‘enamel’ is mentioned? 


I think of shiny smooth white dials, a kiln firing at 800 odd degrees Celsius and... that's about it really. Not much else comes to mind. Nevermind the fact that the art of enamelling is an art form that one may not master even after 20 or even 30 years of experience. There is nothing quite like a clean, crisp, white enamel dial, and Seiko’s use of it is a testament to the elegance in simplicity. But the art of enamelling, that’s a whole ‘nother thing. What? How hard can it be to do a white enamel dial? You've come to the right place. 



Many years ago when I was lucky enough to have visited Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre, during a tour of their in-house enamel workshop, founded by Miklos Merczel, we were told that enamelling was a craft in danger of being lost to time – it wasn’t being taught in schools, and apprentices weren’t willing to invest decades into honing the craft. 


Things have changed dramatically since then. Due to the increased demand of enamelled timepieces over the past decade it is again being professionally taught, and new life given to a once dying craft. However, this may be a blessing and a curse. It is no longer as rare as it used to be, and although the price of admission isn’t exactly low, those with the means are able to acquire a piece of miniature art relatively easily. It almost became industrialised insomuch as a craft can be; a product, rather than art. There are views that the Swiss watch industry should keep some things ‘sacred’ and not mass produce everything because of demand. 



Hermes Cape Cod


So what exactly does it take to become a master enameller? Like watchmaking it is a highly skilled craft and takes years, if not decades, to be anywhere near good enough for your craft to be recognised and perhaps commissioned by brands (watch or otherwise) or an in-house artisan. 


Currently, one of the most respected and revered is the independent master enameller, Anita Porchet, although if you ask her, she would not call herself that. In fact, after two decades of producing amazing pieces for the likes of Patek Philippe (who were one of the first to recognise her talent), Vacheron Constantin, Piaget, Hermes, and other prestigious Maisons, she still feels that she has not mastered the art. And therein lies the problem of the industry. 


Piaget The Rose - Featuring Cloisonné technique


As with many crafts, increasing popularity entices more people to study it, with some not hesitating to label themselves “enameller” with mere months of experience. For sure there are some talented artists who may acquire the skills of miniaturising art, but enamel isn’t like painting. It requires time to be familiar with the raw materials, to know when the grain is fine enough, and to time each firing in the kiln to perfection, as a few seconds too long in the kiln can ruin months’ worth of work. Impurities in the glass can cause bubbles or discolouration. There are no shortcuts. 


Working on Piaget - The Rose


Anita Porchet was born in La Chaux-de-Fonds and learnt the basics of enamel work through her godfather, before studying fine arts. It would turn out to be portentous when she won a Patek Philippe prize shortly after graduating. Her significance is as such that in 2015 the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie presented her with the “Hommage au Talent” prize. It is important to note that as well as her own artistic work and her apprentices, she has also taught, including at the School of Applied Arts (EAA) in La Chaux-de-Fonds.



Various enamel colours


She started out solo in the 1980s, establishing her home studio in the countryside somewhere between Geneva and Lausanne in 1993. She now has three apprentices. During her long career she has experienced the dramatic rise in demand of the craft last two decades; from almost no takers to brands spending millions creating enamel timepieces. Back in the mid-1990s, Patek Philippe requested from Anita Porchet her first enamel dials. Then other Maisons followed. She became more skilled and more proficient, and over the years created an unique signature, as well as mastering a wide range of disciplines:


Champlevé - which consists of cutting away troughs or cells in a metal plate and filling the depressions with enamel. The raised metal lines between the cutout areas form the design outline.


Paillonné (Spangling) - which involves applying microscopic specks of gold leaf to the enamel


Cloisonné - a technique that allows the motif to be outlined with a gold wire finer than a hair’s breadth


Grisaille - a technique by which an image is executed entirely in shades of grey and usually severely modelled to create the illusion of sculpture


Limoges - white painting - using enamel very finely ground with heavy vegetable oils, which gives a very thick white paste. 


Dawn on the lake by Anita Porchet for Patek Philippe's175th anniversary



A Patek Philippe dome clock with cloisonne and paillone enamel


Some of her more challenging work included creating the ceiling of the Opéra Garnier on the Métiers d’Art Chagall & l’Opéra de Paris “Tribute to Famous Composers” for Vacheron Constantin, the reproduction of Judith by Gustav Klimt on a Patek Philippe pocketwatch involved a combination of techniques.  


Opéra Garnier on the Métiers d’Art Chagall & l’Opéra de Paris “Tribute to Famous Composers” for Vacheron Constantin


Porchet has achieved her consistent level of quality only after years of experimentation, and it can take up to a year to finish a complex dial. Each firing in the kiln can last between 30 to 90 seconds. Even if the timing is perfect, it is no guarantee the step WILL be successful. “Cracks on enamel do not all happen for the same reasons,” Porchet explains to Robb Report. “The origin of the cracks can come from the quality of the colour, from the thickness, or from the metal. I try to find a solution for each case, but it’s not always possible.” It is this skill, accumulation of experience over time, that makes Anita Porchet a master enameller, a title which I’m sure she will refuse.


*I mentioned the significance of Patek Philippe to the career of Anita Porchet. One of the first things that those new to Patek (and who are not native French speakers) learn is that the ‘émail’ on some dials does not refer to electronic mail but that it is the French word for enamel. Thus, an enameller is an ‘émailler’. 




Wednesday, July 1, 2020

Quick Look: Chanel Coco Clock



This recently popped up on one of my feeds and quite frankly, I was intrigued. Mind you, Chanel isn’t a brand that’s on my radar, and even though I was aware of their accomplishments in the watchmaking world, Chanel to me were handbags and perfumes, with the occasional lipstick thrown in the mix.


Now, dear readers, before your thumbs start tapping and drawing out the pitchfork emoticon, hear me out. Or rather, keep scrolling. 


I still remember quite fondly the time my colleague and I visited the flagship boutique at 31 Rue Cambon, because she wanted to buy the bag. I think it was the 2.55. To be honest I don’t remember this particular detail. They all look the same to me. Yes, iconic and unmistakably Chanel in black with quilted diamond pattern, but otherwise... Of course, who can forget the No.5 perfume? As someone who is not a keen disciple of the fashion industry, I think that pretty much covers it... 




Let’s get back to the topic at hand. When I saw this my interest piqued. What a wonderful and whimsical display! Such Playfulness. I needed to know more! But guess what? Clocks, being something less “commercial” today, it was surprisingly difficult to find any information of note to quench my thirst. What’s that you say? The official website? Sure. Have a look. It’s not exactly brimming with information on this particular item of whimsicality. Therefore i fired up Google, and let my fingers do the research.


Chanel J12 feat. Coco, Limited to 555 pieces each colour.


It appears that this caricature of Coco Chanel was first used to tell the time on the J12 ceramic watch back in 2017 (that I could find. Leave a comment below if I’m wrong), in a limited edition of 555 pieces per colour (well, black or white). They have brought her back in a table clock form this year. There was a different version of the clock previously featuring a dial inspired by her love of coromandel screens. The obsidian case is of course, inspired by the shape of the stopper on the perfume No.5, which in turn was directly inspired by the shape of Place Vendôme in Paris.



Chanel Coromandel Clock



Bird's eye view of Place Vendome


What I really wanted information on, and something that was difficult to come by, was the movement in the clock. From first glance it’s skeletonised mechanical movement, but it’s too large to be a watch movement, as my first instinct was that it was the Calibre 2, designed with the help from Romain Gauthier, in the shape inspired by a Camellia flower; a favourite of Coco’s. Upon further digging, I managed to find what i needed. The movement appears to have been designed by Chanel Creative Studio and produced by the famed L’Epee Manufacture. You know, the ones that do all the clock collabs with MB&F, not to mention some really cool clocks of their own. The dial features a playful caricature of Coco Chanel, complete in diamonds and pearls, with cloissone enamel by master enameller Anita Porchet.



Chanel Calibre 2 - in the shape of a Camellia flower

8 Day clock movement, designed by Chanel, produced by L'Epee


The other collab which is much more distinctively L’Epee, the Chronosphere, was more widely covered.


The Chronosphere, Collab with L'Epee


So there you have it. I’m sure I wasn’t the only one dying to know what was powering the mademoiselle clock. There’s gotta be at least another 1-2 of you out there. And in case you’re wondering why there was another Chanel related article, it was the search for this clock movement that led me to the whole Kenissi movement supplier, which was covered in the previous post.


Coco Clock Specs:


Dimensions: 110mm x 153mm x 61mm

Cased in Obsidian

18k gold base with 136 diamonds

18k gold ring with 305 diamonds

8 Day power reserve manual wind with winding key

LImited Edition of 10 pieces

Price: Approx. $756,000 AUD